Models > MDE9206AYW > Instructions

MDE9206AYW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for MDE9206AYW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MDE9206AYW
46-60 of 624
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Dryer was noisy and was taking a long time to dry clothes

  • Customer: Kent from Franksville WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
The dryer disassembly was pretty straightforward. The drive belt slips over the drum and easily prys over the drive and idler pulleys. The drum seal is held in place with the existing metal tabs. The old drum glides had to be drilled out and the new ones pop rivited in easily. Overall a rather simple process and the dryer sounds and drys like new again for minimal expenditure and time. Probably would have cost $200+ had I had a service person do the work.

Heating Element was starting to fail

  • Customer: Timothy from Loganton PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
It was very simple. I removed the fromt cover on the dryer. The heating element was easy to get to and after removing all the attached wires and 4 nuts. The new element was installed, reattached the wire correctly and put the screws back in place. It was extremely easy to complete.

Buzzer did not work.

  • Customer: Thomas from Inverness FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the four screws that hold the back cover of the control panel. I then disconnected the two wires from the buzzer and removed two screws holding the buzzer. Install the new buzzer.

Door safety switch would not close keeping dryer from running

  • Customer: John from Warsaw IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Shut off or unplugged dryer for safety.

Slipped thin blade putty knife up under bezel of switch to unlatch from the panel and pulled forward to remove the swwitch from the dryer. Unplugged the quick connect terminals (3) from the old switch and plugged them onto the new switch. one of the terminals had gotten quite hot and darkened the insulation so it was replaced with one that was supplied with the switch. that was a cut, strip, crimp process. Placed the new switch into the panel and snapped into place.

The dryer drum would not rotate when the start button was pushed.

  • Customer: Bruce from Gladstone MI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
First this I did was to disconnect the power cord. Then I removed the screws that held on the door and the two on the other opposite side. This allowed the front panel to be removed. Next I removed the top two screws which allowed the top to hinge up and out of the way. Then I removed the rest of the screws that held the front drum support and moved it to the side. I did have to unclip the wires that ran to the interior light. I did not how ever have to disconnect any wires at the front of the dryer. Next I reached in from the bottom of the drum and released the drive belt from the spring loaded pulley. at this point the drum was able to be removed out the front of the unit. This gave access to the motor. It was necessary to remove the several screws that held on the front half of the fan housing. Again I did not remove any wires as this too could be moved to the side out of the way. I then removed the snap ring and clamp from the fan end of the motor shaft and pulled the fan off of the shaft. Next I unclipped the wiring connector from the top of the motor and used a screw driver to pry the connector off. Next I used a socket on a long extension to push down on the motor clamps while tilting the socket out to allow the clips to release. I then removed and replaced the motor and assembled in the reverse order. While I had the drum out I inspected the rear support wheels and noted that one would hardly turn. I removed both wheels via a nut on the back side of the shafts. I found that one had shifted on the bushing and was making contact with the frame. I used a vise to press the wheel back into the correct location. I also applied anti seize with a small amount of dry graphite to both wheels and insured that the both rotated freely. I then installed the front two glide slide pads using the pop rivets provided in the kits. I used a shop vac and cleaned any lint from inside the dryer. I then reassembled the front covers in reverse of the disassembly process. I rotated the drum by hand prior to applying power. I also ran the unit with the heat off for the first five minutes. Total cost was under $160.00 or half of the replacement cost.

Blower wheel over time became clogged w/lint & caused the dryer to vibrate

  • Customer: Carol from Onsted MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the dryer front, then detached the retainer ring holding the blower wheel in place. Set the new blower wheel, attached the new ring retainer and placed the dryer front back in place. Thank you for the low prices - I searched on-line at 3 sites and you were the best price available.

Squeaking sound then Barrel stoped turning

  • Customer: John from Palmdale CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged the unit
Removed door and two clips that hold front panel on (6 Philip crews)
Then removed front panel by hand hold each side of the panel at the top
Of the “U” shape and pulling out ward until it frees it self from the two
Bottom clips.
You can now see a belt that is no longer tight around the drum
When I tried to put the belt back on I noticed the idler pulley was flopping around and I would need to replace it .That where you guys saved me.
Your exploded model and parts list made it easy to see exactly what parts I
Needed to order.
The rest gets a little tricky there is another plate that supports the barrel
A couple of clips that hold the top cover in place all of this must be removed
Note the top cover only need to be lifted up an inch or two at the front where the
Two steel clips where and doses not need to be removed to get this panel off that
Supports the barrel.
There are some wires attached to it also I only had to unplug the three that go to
The door safety switch then I was able to rotate it off to the side out of the way
And now the barrel can be lifted out. You can now remove the idler pulley assembly
I used pliers to remove the spring and a crocket wrench to remove a bolt that holds
The bracket that also should be replaced due to ware at the idler pulley barring pin
The tricky part is putting it all back together again. To explain this I would need to Wright a book. It takes a lot of good common sense. I was proud of how I reached
Around from each side of the motor and by feel alone and get the belt around
The motor pulley and the idler pulley that keeps the belt tight around the barrel
Makes me think I should have been a repairman.

old latch broke

  • Customer: Jim from Germantown WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I inserted the clip

An underwire form a bra shorted the element burning it out

  • Customer: Steven from Town Creek AL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Knowing most mfgs. put prints under the conturo panal we started there.
Diagonstics required a multi meter.
The part was removed and the internet serched.
My local parts center was more expensive and would have to order the part. I called Partselect
found exactly what i needed. placed the order with 3 to 5 day ground. Fedex arived the next day. The new part was installed and the dryer smoke tested. The dryer works great.

Dryer wasn't heating sufficiently/consistently.

  • Customer: Kathy from Lilburn GA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Removed front cover, removed old heating unit, installed new thermostat,heating coil inside the dryer and finally replaced the fuse in the front. The main complication was reaching the screws for the heating coil, not really complex.

no heat, coil wasnt getting hot

  • Customer: matthew from Central Islip NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 7 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
took old one out then i had to strip the connector off new one was to big...

One of the Baffles came loose.

  • Customer: Robert from Milford OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I took out screws holding top to dryer & raised the top & proped it up to gain access to inside of the dryeeer drum. I then inatalled the new baffle & secured it with 2 screws. It would have been better if the part came with new screws.It was hard to determine which was the right screws for this application.

Loud noise - missing baffle

  • Customer: Ron from Fresno CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
1 - unscrewed door
2 - made a mess because the directions did not work for my dryer
3 - figured it out = eventually
4 - popped loose the front panel
5 - unscrewed metal bars (that were holding the top down in the front)
6 - lift front like a hood on a car
7 - unscrew the rest of the front until the drum was loose and I could get to the felt strip
8 - glue new strip on where the old strip was = to the front and back plates that hold the drum
9 - put it back together :)

Drying time was taking longer than it should.

  • Customer: Vicki from Springfield MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
I simply went on line and ordered the part. I had it shipped to my office since I am here all day, M-F. I received the part in 2 days. I took it home, pulled out the old lint filter and slid in the new one. It is amazing how much more efficient my dryer is. The old lint filter had about a 6 inch tear in it so it was not catching all the lint.

Switch did not turn off dryer when door opened

  • Customer: paul from madison CT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Switch can be removed from outside of dryer and your video described the repair as having to work from inside dryer. But since wires were still attached to old switch, it could be popped out and wires switched. Since there were three wires on new switch to allow it to turn on and off a circuit, it was useful to check the resistance of the switch compressed or released to be certain I was attaching the two wires to the right two poles of the new switch. But that all required only a couple of minutes. Thank you.
All Instructions for the MDE9206AYW
46-60 of 624