MDE16PRDYW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Don't attempt to start by lifting the top of the dryer. It must come apart from the front first. After acquiring acquisition of the top hold down brackets (Grey metal strips), you may lift the top.The dryer required complete disassembly as the drum rollers were in the lower (inside) rear of the dryer. Lots of sharp edges and corners. So be careful. But it's a job that can be done by a novice and I saved myself $500 by not buying a new machine.

Changed one (1) baffle, then checked the other two(2) and found them to br fatigued so we ordered and changed them also.

I just followed the video. No surprises. I would let the screws on the bumper side of the door "in" but very loose until the hinge side was engaged (close tolerance on hinge side but very manageable). The video was great!

Partselect has on-line video instructional. I ordered ribbed drive belt after watching video. Easy off and on per video. Before installation of belt, I spun the two drum support rollers. Chattering noise from one, sounded similar to belt slipping noise, I was a bit concerned about ordering belt. Used snap ring pliers and removed both rollers, applied small film of automotive wheel bearing grease(high heat resistance) to both shafts and reinstalled rollers. Both spun freely and no noise. Continued replacement of original drive belt (original belt was cracked - this probably contributed to the noise as well). Inside of cabinet and all air ports vacuumed and clean. Operates like new and quiet again.

DISCONNECT THE DRYER FROM THE ELECTRICAL OUTLET. Using a Philips head screwdriver: Remove the (2) screws holding the door hinges to the dryer. Remove the (2) screws from the opposite side of the door. Pull the top of the front panel of the dryer towards you. Simply lift the panel up off of the guides located at the bottom of the dryer. Rotate the tumbler so that the baffle to be replaced is at about 5:00 (bottom right) of the unit. Using a socket wrench, you should be able to easily insert the screws from beneath the tumbler into baffle. Tighten the screws, but don't over tighten. The best things you can do for your dryer is to clean out any dust or lint that is visible while the dryer is open. Reassemble the dryer. Place the front panel into the bottom guides and snap the top of the panel back into place. Reattach the door and the screws opposite the door. You should be good to go. (REMEMBER: DO NOT WORK ON DRYER UNTIL IT HAS BEEN DISCONNECTED FROM THE ELCTRICAL OUTLET)

I never thought I could do this but just followed the video instructions. The dryer is so old I thought I would break off the clip that goes on the outside of the drum roller so I used 2 needle nose pliers to more delicately remove it. Definitely want to buy 2 rollers and replace them both since you don't know which one is the squeaky one. For this model you want to access both the front and back of the dryer for easier maneuverability. Had I known the belt was that old I would have bought that and replaced it at the same time. You might spend as much time cleaning the inside as you will replacing the parts.

I viewed the Part Select video's for the parts I purchased and found those to be very accurate and helpful. It was the first time I've worked on a clothes dryer, but I am pretty good with my hands and with tools. The repair took about an hour from start to finish. I replaced almost all of the moving parts in my dryer, and now it works & sounds like new. I also took the time to vacuum all of the lint that had built, up over the years, on the inside.

Followed the videos here on parts select and it all went pretty well. getting the dryer barrel back in place with a new belt and front and rear felt was a little challenging but it worked and my dryer works great; probably saved myself over $300...

Push new catch in the opening, close the door and VOILA! the door stays closed. Please note that the cost of this part is exorbitant- it's worth about 50 cents but with shipping it cost about $11.00. Check your local hardware store first.

The first time I followed the video on here to determine whether it was the belt making the noise only to find out it was the right rear drum support roller and not the belt making the noise. I greased the shaft and put it back together which only temporarily fixed the problem. When I ed it, I misunderstood how to use the flat screw driver to fix the front drum felt sticking out and damaged the felt. I ordered the Drum Support roller kit and a new drum felt seal. After disassembling it again and installing the new right rear Drum support kit and installing the new front drum felt I started the reassembly. Like most things in life if you know how it's done it's easy but I wrestled with getting the new front Drum Felt to fold back and install inside the drum properly. This was the hard part for me. I needed one more hand to lift up drum, push in the front panel and get the rubber seal to set against the face of the blower assembly. A few choice words later, I finally figured out haw to get it all to go back together properly and properly use the flat bladed screw driver to push the felt seal back and seat. Dryer is back working like new.

After ordering the part, I read the information left by other users. I used a screw driver to pop out the piece, and then put the new latch in the opening. A gentle pop with the side of my hand, and the door latch went right into place. Who knew there was a second door latch on the other side that could've been used?

At the top near the corner of the Front dryer panel are two 5/16" hex head screws that need to be removed. Pull back on the panel and two of the same screws are seen on each side. remove the lower set. on top of the top panel in the back corners are two plastic caps. Remove them. Using a 3/8" nut driver, reach in and remove the 3/8' screw on both sides. Now the top panel can be lifted up enough to see the screw holes in the dryer drum. Have someone hold the baffle in place inside the dryer drum. Insert a 1.5" - #10 hexhead screw into the hole through the drum and into the pre-drilled hole on the baffle. Tighten using a 5/16" nutdriver. Make sure it is snug but do not overtighten as you could strip out the plastic.Repeat on the second screw and then put everyting back together in reverse order and you're done. SIMPLE!!

Removed the front screws below dryer door panel; lift up the entire front of the dryer. Set door aside, disconnect the wires from the door. Took a pic. so I'd remember where yellow and white wires were located Using a forehead flashlight freed up my hands for easy repair. Identify the thermostat that needed replaced, removed 2 wires and 2 screws that secured it to the barrel. Jot down or take a pic. of where the wires belong. Replace thermostat, reconnect screws and wires. Job one done.Took 15 minutes. Next job entailed replacing the drum roller and shaft. With the front panel off, you'll find 4 screws that support the tumbler barrel. Remove the screws, remove tumbler support. On the back of the dryer is an entry where the belt runs through. You need to release the belt from its pulley. Once removed, go back to the front of the dryer. Push the belt out of the way so you can pull out the barrel (roller). Make certain you remember (take a pic.) of how the belt was threaded. Once this is done, pull out the tumbling barrel and locate the 2 wheels that need to be replaced. This is easy. Remove the bolt from behind the shaft, take the clip off the front of the old wheel and insert new shaft and wheel. Repeat for the second roller and roller shaft. One is a little more difficult to access than the other. Once completed, put barrel back into the front of the dryer. Reconnect the dryer belt. I found it helpful to have a second person nearby so as to turn the barrel for me so I could get things centered. Make certain the flat side of belt is on the barrel. Otherwise, belt will break. Put drum support back on, connect with the 4 screws. Reconnect yellow and white wires on front panel. Put panel in place and you're good to go. The belt was what took the longest for me as it needed to be put in the proper position. Dryer works like it's brand new now!

I followed the instructions and the video that accompanied the replacements parts I received. First I unplugged the dryer. I then removed the two screws that attach the door and set the door aside, then two screws and clips on the latch side. I removed the screws that attached metal clips on the left and right side of the panel at the top, where it comes together with the top of the dryer. That allowed me to pull the front panel forward and to lift it off the tabs at the bottom of the panel, and I set that aside. I was then able to lift the top and lean it against the back wall, exposing the drum. From there it was easy to rotate the drum to find the holes to align the replacement baffles, and I installed them using the existing screws that I was able to locate inside the dryer at the bottom where they had fallen. (you can purchase replacement screws but they are expensive - you can probably get the same type screws from Home Depot or Lowes) I then reversed the steps and made sure I snugged up all of the screws, plugged it in and it worked.

An underwire from a bra shorted the element out. After unplugging the dryer i removed 4 screws from the front (accessed with the door open). Gently closed the door and popped the front off. I did a continuity test on the 2 spade connectors at the end of the element. No continuity= bad element. Keep track of where the wires go before disconnecting them. Remove the 2 mounting screws with a 1/4" nut driver and remove the element. Piece of cake!