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PartSelect Number PS1804752
This front glide kit comes with a blue plastic glide, a brown cork pad, and two metallic rivets. Two kits are required per appliance. Also, a rivet tool is required for this kit - purchase locally.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
1. Removed front of machine (2 screws at the bottom).2. Removed 4 screws from inside the dryer, to take off the blower housing.3. Removed 4 screws and took out the large metal piece which supports the drum at the front. Removed the drum.4. Replaced the two rollers that support the drum in the rear. Cleaned the pins they run on, and oiled very lightly. Also replaced the idler roller. I was surpirsed to see that these rollers use plain bearings, not ball bearings.5. On the front support piece, drilled out the rivets for the glides, and replaced the worn out glides with new parts. Applied a little glue (3M weatherstrip adhesive) to the cork pieces, to glue them to the metal. Attached the plastic pieces over the cork pieces, and riveted in place using rivets that came with the glide kits.6. Replaced front and rear felt seals. This was not as tricky as I expected it to be. They were held in by metal tabs. Glued the ends where they came together.7. Replaced the felt blower seal. Glued to the blower housing.8. Reinstalled the drum, installed new belt, which came with good instructions (luckily).9. Reassembled front support piece and the front of the cabinet.I also cleaned the lint from the cabinet and from the vent hose.In general, the job went without a hitch, and the machine probably has quite a few years left, despite the fact that it's 18 years old. This gives me a good feeling.I'd say this would be challenging, though, for someone who is not pretty experienced with machinery repair. Also, the cost of the parts was significant enough that it would not have been unreasonable to have opted for a new machine.
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I received my parts promptly and had no problems, they were accurate and fit well. After removing the screws to the front door and panel I removed the wires to the door switch. Carefully I removed the belt and removed the drum. I took the time to vacuum all of the lent from the inside and and remove from all the wiring, motor and heating elements, etc. I replaced the drum rollers, belt, front glides and a buzzer that was on the blink. I reassembled the dryer and unforetunately the dryer was still squeeking. I later repeated the process and found that the tensioner wheel for the belt was the culprit. I cleaned then greased the bearing portion and replaced it. I reassembled the dryer a second time and now it's quiet as a mouse. By the way, you will need a rivet gun to replace the front glides and I recommend you give the belt tensioner wheel a good inspection the first time. If your dryer is squeeking, go ahead and order the tensioner wheel also, it's a little money spent toward making sure you get rid of the noise! It might save you a lot of time and trouble.
From the first time the motor buzzed (but dryer tumbler then started to turn), 2 weeks elapsed for the dryer drum to stop turning altogether. If this occurs, DO NOT continue to push the start button because the motor armature wiring will heat up and the insulation will begin to melt and smell - a SAFETY HAZARD. Unplug dryer and lockout/tagout as appropriate.Through basic troubleshooting, discovered the motor had seized up. Since the unit was about 10 years old and it had to be disassembled for replacement, the decision was made to replace "likely to fail mechanical components including motor, belt, both rear drum rollers/shafts, idler arm pulley/assembly/wheel, associated washers, snap rings and both front glides. Reviewed the PartSelect website and drawings, ordered the parts and they delivered on time. Buy the correct sized snap rings at a local hardware, they're much less expensive. Also once inside your dryer, you'll likely find alot of lint to vacuum out...have fun.I went online and Googled several resources that showed how to remove the front dryer panels, as well as PartSelect repair stories. From that point on, I took photos as I was disassembling so I would know how to put it back together. Utilize pictures or whatever system you prefer to keep track of taking something apart and putting it back together.Remove the dryer door, then the front panel Disconnect wires to the light, dryness sensor and door switch. Note belt and pulley configuration that is near the motor-this will help you later when reinstalling the belt. Also note if the ribbed side or the flat side of the belt is against the outer drum wall. Remove the door shroud.Slip the belt off the idler pulley wheel. Remove front drum support, then dryer drum Note which end of the dryer drum is the front and the orientation of the glides on the drum support. Discard old belt. Drill out and remove the old front glide supports, then install/rivet the new glides.Remove both old rear drum rollers/shafts, washers, etc. The rear drum roller shafts are secured to a back bracket by a hex nut....feel around you'll figure it out. Replace new roller shafts. Lightly grease using a high quality silicon grease, then replace new washers, roller, snap ring, etcCarefully unplug wiring harness on motor, there are fragile clips on each end. Don't forget a separate ground wire from the harness is attached to the motor mount bracket. Carefully release tension on the idler arm spring. Using the correct size nut driver, remove three screws (on this model) then take out the motor/idler arm assembly. Remove the old idler arm/pulley assembly. Remove the motor mount clips on each end of the mount (I used a wide blade screwdriver). Remove and replace the motor. Motor configurations changed after Whirlpool bought Maytag, so orient it correctly insuring mounting gasket "nubs" on each end of the motor correspond to the cutouts on the motor mount. Reinstall the motor mount clips. Replace the new idler arm assembly/pulley wheel; grease moving parts with high quality wheel bearing grease. Replace motor/mount bracket assembly back into the dryer. Replace ground wire to motor mount bracket and plug wiring harness back in. Reinstall idler arm spring.Place belt back on the dryer drum and move into place on rear rollers. Reinstall front drum support. Dryer drum should turn relatively easy. Insure belt is oriented on the drum correctly before connecting belt to motor shaft end and idler arm wheel pulley (the picture you took comes in handy here).Reinstall the rest of the parts in reverse.
1 Disconnect dryer from electrical outlet2 remove vent pipe3 Tilt dryer backwards and remove front cover bottom 2 philips screws.4 remove lint assembly and then the fan blower housing with nut driver.5 with pliers remove retainer clip from fan6 remove snap ring with pliers or a flat blade screw driver will also work.7 remove fan at the same time I replaced the front glides if you do not want to do this then reinstall in reverse order and job is complete.for glide replacement 1 remove the 4 screws holding the outer ring to the frame of the dryer.2 drill out old rivits from the back side and then knock out. be careful to only drill rivit and not into metal frame3 install new new glides makesure you install in correct direction.4 install pop rivets with stud end on top side of glide. pushing rivet through glide and into the frame ring.5 pop rivits and make sure they are secure.6 reinstall ring making sure seal is around ring correctly7 reintal 4 screws.8 follow reassembly of blower and lint housing if you changed the fan. if not then just the lint assembly.good luck the job is really easy and you will save yourself some money
1. Unplugged dryer, removed front (2 phillips screws near bottom) set aside with wires attached2. Removed front support (4 hex head screws)3. Drilled out pop-rivets, discarded old glides (why didn't Maytag use rollers?)4. Riveted new glides in place.5. (Oops!) trimmed cork pads, smeared with glue, shoved under glides, held down until firm6. Removed drum (pushed belt back to groove, pulled drum off rollers, lifted belt off drum, worked drum out) Left belt on pulley and tension wheel as pattern when I replace it.7. Scraped old gasket felt off back chassis and front support8a. Folded gasket lengthwise and glued into front support channel with fold on outside diameter. It was too short.8b. (Oops! Why didn't this come with instructions?) Pulled it out, reversed it and replaced it with fold to inside diameter. It fit. Glued ends together.9. Glued other felt gasket into back chassis. (Good ventilation needed here!)10. Replaced rollers. (This did have instructions, despite being easy. I didn't use any grease. Experience as a locksmith says don't lube anything that isn't sealed from dust. I also vacuumed out 15 years of dust.)11. Replaced belt. (The old one looked fine, but I was advised to do the belt and rollers along with the glides.) The grooves touch the drive pulley, the flat goes around the tensioner, and the belt exiting to the left seems like it will rub the pulley, but it doesn't once the drum is installed.12. Turn the drum around (Nice, it's symmetrical!) and work it back in.13. Lift the belt around the drum edge (I used bull clips to hold it in place.)14. Check the belt on the pulleys, move the drum in more, take off clips, move the belt to the groove.15. put the drum on the rollers, lift the belt out of the groove, and spin the drum a little while watching the pulleys to check it.16. Screw the front support back in place.17. Screwed the front on and plugged it in.It works!
After much coercement from my wife, I listened to the squealing noise she kept telling me about. Then it quit working completely and I had no choice. Probably the motor. Not being one to want to do this more than once and figuring after 16 years all of it could be bad, I ordered all moving parts, as well as new front and rears felt seals for the drum and the blower seal. Everything in taking the dryer apart was straight forward and obvious. The tricky part was getting the belt back on the tensioner. Working from the front of the dryer, I did this one-handed via the lower left side around the motor while my wife held the drum in place.
Remove top two front cover screws. Disconnect wiring. Set aside front cover - door assembly. Remove two screws at top of the vertical riser cover to expose entire dryer interior. Remove filter. Remove screws to blower cover plate. Remove 4 screws that fasten front drum guide assembly. Remove drum. remove and replace 2 drum support rollers . Replace one rusted drum roller shaft. Replace both drum rollers and non-metalic washers.Drill out 4 rivets holding two front drum glides. Replace and rerivet new drum glides.Pry back slighty the many retention points around the front drum assembly which hold the front drum felt seal. Refit the new front drum felt, pressing the retaining clips back in place with a screwdriver.Replace tumbler motor belt.Install Drum. Install front drum retention assembly. Install new blower seal with reassembly of blower cover.Total time - about 1 hour
Removed top screws and the front cover.Removed lint filter harness/air vent assembly (two screws inside dryer tumbler, 6-7 screws along vent assembly).Removed front dryer tumbler sealer panel (2 screws on each side).Scraped off old felt sealer with screwdriver.Drilled out remnants of old rivets.Replaced gliders with cork underneath.Riveted gliders into position.Used mighty putty to fill the cut metal around the top of the sealer panel (resulting from the dryer tumbler rubbing without proper gliders).Glued new felt sealer around tumbler sealer panel.Reassembled the entire unit in reverse order.
Removed the Front panel (two philips screws) and then removed the front support bracket (4 hex nuts - two per side). New support bracket required the install of two front glide bushings which are comprised of a teflon like tab and a similar but smaller cork tab (no instructions or indications as to the order of placement) however most logical placement had the cork covered by the teflon tab). The teflon tab was riveted to the support assembly on each side with the supplied pop rivets. A plastic filter/air discharge chute was removed from the old support, cleaned to remove residual lint and years of collected garbage and then secured to the new support. The tumble drumb was easily aligned and matched to the front support as the support has alignment tabs which match the frame. While disassembled the entire unit was cleaned to remove copious amounts of lint and dust. On note - make sure the drive belt has not relocated in the tumbler groove located at the back of the tumbler - insufficient tension results and no tumbler action. Proper alignment will save you the re-removal of the front plate to access the belt. As this is a gas unit all fittings were re-attached and checked with soapy H2O to prevent an early forced remodel of the laundry room!
It was very easy to access the parts that needed to be replaced (blower wheel, belt, and glides). 1. Unplug the dryer power cord.2. Removed the two screws at the bottom of the front dryer panel. Pull the bottom of the panel forward, which frees the retaining clips at the top of the panel.3. Disconnect the two wires from the back of the panel, and remove the panel. The drum will be resting on the motor/blower hosuing.4. Slide the belt off of the back of the tumbler, and remove the tumbler (have to angle it a bit, to clear the frame) and the belt.5. Remove the thermostat cover (piece of angled sheet metal, in front of the blower unit).6. Remove the screws from the blower housing, and lay it forward, to expose the blower wheel.7. Remove the snap ring, and then the retaining ring from the blower wheel. Remove the old wheel.8. Install the new wheel, then the retaining ring, and then the snap ring. Reattach the cover to the blower assembly.9. Reattach the thermostat cover.10. On the tumbler, drill out the rivets for each of the glides, and remove all glide parts. Install new glides.This is a good time to complete any general cleaning inside the dryer cabinet, especially in the area of the motor. Since there is limited access to the motor itself, might help to use the blower function of a shopvac to blow out that dust.Vacuum out all lint from around the felt drum seals.11. Loop the new belt over the tumbler, and install the tumbler (the glides go towards the front of the dryer). Note: to keep the belt from falling off, I taped it to the drum with two pieces of painters tape..the blue tape that comes back off easily.12. On the back of the dryer, remove the access panel, and complete installation of the belt to the idler pulley.13. If you taped the belt to the drum....don't forget to remove the tape now. Reinstall front panel to dryer.This was my first experience working with snap ring retaining rings. Even with snap ring pliers, they are difficult to remove without stretching them out. Be sure to order a new one with your blower wheel.Also my first experience using a pop rivet gun ( to install the new glides). Found a rivet gun at Lowes for $9.99. Worked okay, and all rivets set properly. Good thing, because you don't get any extras with the glide kits.After replacing the parts, and starting up the dryer, all of the clunking/squelling/rumbling noises were gone. There was a noticable smell while the new glides got broken in...smelled a bit like melting rubber. However, after a couple of drying cyles, the odor was gone.
Disconnected the dryer, removed the front cover, front drum support, and the entire drum (30 min.). Completely cleaned all lint and debris from inside the dryer (30 min.). Installed the new tumbler roller shafts and drum support rollers (20 min.). Installed the new drive belt (30 min.). Re-assembled and re-connected the dryer and ran to verify operation (30 min.). The dryer runs like new. I found I didn't need the front glide kit , as I replaced the glides a couple years ago and they were in excellent condition. All in all, the parts, service and instructions were outstanding. I will use PartSelect whenever I need to repair my appliances from now on.
This was pretty much as easy as most other folks had described on this site. 1. Removed the two screws at the front bottom that are holding on the fromt panel, and then lift up and remove the panel.2. Disconnect the door-open-safety-switch, remembering which color of wire goes on which connection.3. Remove the four screws (two on each side) on the front bracket that supports the drum and tthat contains the front glides.4. Remove support bracket and lint trap, letting the drum rest gently on the stuff underneath.5. Remove the screws holding the lint trap to the support bracket. (My model had five screws.) Remove lint trap from support bracket.6. Drill out the two pop rivets on each of the two glides, noting the orientation of the teflon pad and mounting strip.7. Secure - and here is where I had a little problem - new glides in place with pop rivets. (I hadn't use a rivet gun in a while, so I messed up the first pop rivet and had to go to the hardware store to get a replacement. I didn't hold the pop rivet in all the way while I was accuating the gun!)8. Reverse the process for assembly, and you are all done.It's simple.
I set the dryer on its back to make alignment of the front drum guide cover easy to reinstall in the seal after completion. I removed the 2 screws at the bottom front then removed the white and yellow wires to the interlock switch and set the front cover aside. I then removed the 4 nut screws holding the front drum cover and removed. On the back side there are two teflon and cork "bearings". I had ordered two even though only one was worn down to metal. On each one I then removed the two rivets by drilling them out. Then I placed the corks into the bearing slots with a little glue then inserted the teflon into the slots and riveted them into place with the rivets that came with the kit. I replaced the drum cover, connected the switch and screwed the dryer front cover back on. I set the dryer back up. Connected the vent hose and turned the dryer on. Beautiful sweet smooth and quiet operation. I had replaced the front and back drum seals a few months ago and saw the teflon was missing but did not have the kits at that time. With a complete job I would recommend replacing the front and rear drum seals and the two teflon/cork bearing kits at the same time.
First I removed the two screws near the bottom of the front panel. Then I removed the front panel by rotating it outwards. Next I removed the front frame section by removing the four screws. The tumbler rests on this frame piece so remove it carefully and it will stay put - no need to take it out. The grinding noise I was hearing was the tumbler (drum) running on the frame - the glides (bearings) were worn out. This had generated piles of metal powder which I vaccumed up. It was easy to locate the reason there was no heat - the thermostat was burned to a crisp. It torched part of the blower seal in the process. The reason the thermostat fails in this manner is the lint duct gets clogged up increasing the duty cycle of the heater which fries the thermostat. I had to strip back the red wire and install a new blade connector but the thermostat just bolts on easy enough. You'll need a rivet gun to replace the glides. Drill out the old rivets and pull them out with some pliers. Easy enough to do and it runs like new! Good luck.
The dryer disassembly was pretty straightforward. The drive belt slips over the drum and easily prys over the drive and idler pulleys. The drum seal is held in place with the existing metal tabs. The old drum glides had to be drilled out and the new ones pop rivited in easily. Overall a rather simple process and the dryer sounds and drys like new again for minimal expenditure and time. Probably would have cost $200+ had I had a service person do the work.
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