MDE16PDAZW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

took off the dryer by remving two screws, then the front panel. Then removed the screws that held in the drum, pulled the drum out replaced the baffles then put it back together. It was easyer then I thought. It took less them 30 mins.

I simply removed the retaining clip and old bearing and re-installed the new drum roller, washers and retaining clip. Fairly simple really.

Our dryer started making noise and we ignored it until it became a grinding sound, that's when I knew I had to fix it.

The grinding was the front assembly being worn through by the fact that the glides were gone (worn away) and we continued to use the dryer. I, subsequently, had to replace the front assembly (after trying duct tape and metal epoxy, which didn't work). As there were no glides on the replacement front assembly I didn't know to replace them. They had worn away completely and I didn't realize I needed them.

Well, the grinding started again (right away, acually)and I tore it apart again and that's when I realized that I needed the glides (one on each bottom side) so I got those and put them on. They are called "bearing kits" actually.

They come as a cork piece that goes underneath the "vinyl" piece with the tabs going into the slots and the vinyl piece being riveted into the assembly from the underside of the assembly. I think that, so, that when the drum starts rubbing on something it will hit the rivets instead of the assembly and only damage the rivets. That way you know you need them when you hear a grinding sound and I theorize that will get your attention enough to make you want to replce them. The rivets being put in top down looks right though so "whatever" I suppose.

I also had to take them to work to ask an engineer if the cork gets glued to the vinyl as I saw on one post and he agreed as the cork is porous and would be capable of being greased and retaining the grease, He was wrong of course as so many engineers are today. I think that it is rather obvious that you just slip the tabs into the slots as you're common sense brain tells you to do.

The wife's happy and
I'm superman once again.

removed the front panel and lifted the top up. turned the tumbler and screwed down the new baffles from the outside. Used washers because the screw holes were bent from the old baffles.

I went on my laptop and typed in repairs to Maytag dryer - baffle and he said it was so easy. Dryer does not make any more noises and saved us probably $150.00. Your website is GREAT!

A noise in the dryer cabinet started as a chirp, then slowly progressed into a constant squealing noise. After reading reviews on this site, I decided to go ahead and order the roller shafts and drum roller support kits for both sides. The cabinet was relatively simple to disassemble. I removed the door and the front panel, then lifted the top panel to expose the drum. After releasing the tension on the idler pulley I removed the belt and the drum from the cabinet. Once inside, I examined all moving parts and determined that, although the support rollers were worn, they were not the source of the noise, it was the idler roller itself. I order the additional parts that day, and had them the next afternoon. Once back inside the dryer cabinet, the removal and replacement of the idler pulley and assocaited bracket/shaft took less than five minutes. I went ahead and replaced the support rollers as well since I already had them delivered, and that took a total of about 15 minutes. The support rollers are held on the shatfs by c-clips, and having the special pliers built for removing those clips was a big help and time saver. All total this job can be competed by someone with moderate mechanical knowledge and basic tools. It did take some time and patience to get the drum and belt re-installed and routed around the correct route, including the motor polley and new idler pulley. Total time was over one hour, due more so to the time spent cleaing the lint out of the cabinet than actual part replacement.

I unscrewed the door hinges and the screw + plastic retaining clips opposite the door hinges. That allowed me to remove the fron of the dryer which, in turn allowed me to access the baffle screws on the outside of the dryer drum. It is VERY handy to have a finger wratchet with which to undo these baffle screws. Old baffle out/new baffle in and button up the front of the machine. Pretty easy.

I would like to say that Partselect did a great job in all aspects of this repair. The website ordering format was very easy to use, the price was great, and the part arrived quickly and well packed.

I removed front cover and disconnected door switch as I supported drum and put a coffee can to hold drum in place and then removed old support rollers and one shaft and then put all compents back together

The replacement dryer drum wheel was easy to find on Parts Select website. Easier than the replacement of the part! After finished everything was quiet again and running great now. I would definitely use this site again in the future.

I removed the front panel, drilled out the worn glider plate's rivets and riveted the new plates on. It was easy. However its too late for this worn out dryer. I've replaced, belts, pulleys, wheels, gas valves, ignitor elements, humidistats, lamps, felt rings, and even the whole motor. This baby has just seen too much action and its time for a new dryer.

Pulled power plug. Removed two screws at bottom of front panel, removed panel and disconnected two wires from the door switch.
Set door assembly aside.
Using nut driver removed the four screws at each side of the drum support assembly.
Removed drum support assembly.
Separated the drum about four inches from the rear drum support assembly.
Cleaned all lint accumulation from all parts and inside the cabinet bottom.
Removed the snap ring, the old roller and washers and roller shaft.
Cleaned area and installed new roller shaft, non-metallic washers and snap ring.
I did not have to remove the drum or the belt.
Be sure the felt is in its proper place before pushing the drum back into the rear drum support assembly.
Placed the front drum support assembly in position and re-installed the four screws.
Re-installed the door assembly and the power plug.

Clothes are taking to long to dry. I noticed that the burner is cicling on the limint switch ;which is mounted on the burner tube.. is thius the correct serqunce of operation? I replaced this limit. so i am thinking I have another problem. can you help? Thahk you Gary

first i disconect the power , then I
removed the two screws that hold the front door
panel. screws located at bottom of the front door panel.
i removed roller shaft with no. 13 wrench and install new one

Removed front panel, removed drum, replaced drum support rollers.

When the dryer noise grew to an unbearable level, professional opinion indicated that it was "definitely" caused by the drum support rollers. First I ordered the wrong rollers and Parts Select was kind enough to let me return them. Then I got the right parts and with internet-sourced instructions, they were relatively easy to replace, although it did require removal of the drum. But that didn't solve the problem. Another round of research said that the noise was "probably" the blower fan. I ordered the right fan and in much less time than it took to install the support rollers, I put in the new blower fan (it didn't require removal of the drum). That solved the problem. While the support rollers may wear out, I strongly suggest that you look at the blower fan first when the dryer makes too much noise. It's a cheaper and easier repair and that part is more likely to cause the rumble.