MDE16PDAZW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

First I unplugged the power cord. Removed the front door and trim screws, the interior trim piece was removed. Then shop vac all the lint, then replaced the belt and reassembled the dryer. Ran it for a few minutes empty, sounded good. Old belt was worn, threads coming out of the sides of it.

I followed the descriptions from other do-ti-yourselfers on your web site and the "fix" was quick and easy. It took me longer to file my snap-ring pliers , made in China of course, to fit the snap-rings than it did to make the repair.

remove front of dryer by unscrewing 2 screws and disconnected 2 wires.took small access panel off back of dryer . supported dryer drum from underneath and r & r old parts.

ps before you put it all back together connect 2 wires from front door and turn dryer on to see if dryer is quiet.if so reassemble dryer in reverse order

Removed the door, then the front panel. Removed the lock plates for the top and tipped it to the rear. Removed the lint vaccuum assembly and the front drum support bracket. Removed belt from drive motor and pulled drum straight out the front. Removed snap ring on support roller shaft and removed old roller. Installed new roller and re-assembled in reverse order. Part fit perfectly and included reasonable instructions.

1. removed door
2. removed front plate
3. removed two screws that hold the tumble fin
4. replaced damaged tumble fin with new one

i took front cover off,then removed front drum support. pulled out dryer basket and replaced wheels and shafts. problem solved!!!

I pulled the dryer apart and found the belt dangling from the drum. Knee-jerked the purchase of a replacement belt without looking at anything else in the dryer.... (foreshadowing!!!!) When the belt arrived, it occurred to me that I hadn't considered that the old belt was still intact, just frayed a bit. At that point I found the idler pulley bushing had galled on its axle, and the plastic pulley had separated from the bushing and been ground down by the rotating belt. So I had to order (separately) the idler pulley. Using the GREAT video on belt repair (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z76qrBmSUeE), I had the new idler pulley and belt on and the dryer reassembled in about an hour. The only slightly tricky part was having to re-bend the E-clip that holds the idler pulley so it would be tight in its groove. Thanks 1x10^6 for the outstanding tutorial video! And make sure you do a complete evaluation before ordering your parts.....

Watched you tube video and followed instructions. Repair went well but the vibration still is present on start up. Considering this is not my line of work I think it was a matter of misdiagnosing the problem. The rollers were worn so probably not a total waste of time and money.

I check on the internet to see how to do this before I started. I did just as they said to take the front cover off then the door and pull the drum out a short distance then put the belt on. It worked out just as they said to.This was very easy with the instruction on line.Thanks a lot.

One of the roller wheels was completely broken off. So I followed the video and took the drum out and replaced both roller wheels. Retaining clip pliers helped get the roller wheels off. Greased wheels prior to installing. Also removed the idler wheel on the motor assemply and greased it while I was in there. Also vacuumed all lint out (including motor). Pulled front of exhaust vent off using nut driver to remove screws. Cleaned lint from around the two sensors in that assembly. put everything back together and made sure belt was not down in the recessed groove on the tub. When reassembled, it was incredibly quiet.

I had the dryer repaired for the same thing by a "professional" 3 years ago. When it started making the same noise again, my son was here and said he thought he could fix it. We ordered the drum support roller kit, which was what was replaced before. After my son took it apart he decided we should also order the roller shaft as it was worn. He also realized the "professional" had installed the wrong drum support roller kit and installed the rollers backwards, which might have something to do with the shaft also wearing. It's working fine now.

the rear left roller is attached to the dryer with a shaft that has a nut on the end of it, so replacing it was considerably easier than on the right side, which required removing the retainer clip.
Once I got the small back panel off, it was a pretty simple process to replace the roller with a socket - while supporting the weight of the drum with one hand, it took about 5 minutes to replace the roller and re-fasten the nut to complete the job!

Removed Front Panel, Filter/Drum Support and tumbler. Noted metal shavings inside cabinet on my right side. Found right front glide strip completely gone and left side deteriorated. Also spun rear drum rollers and noted noise and slight wobble on right side. Removed snap rings, washers and rollers and examined both shafts. No scoring noted so I cleaned them with mineral spirits. Used excellent website tools to rapidly identify parts needed and placed order. Parts arrived second day (w/ standard shipping option). Installed drum support wheels using new washers from kit (discarded old,thinner ones) and reused snap rings. Moving to front support, drilled out old rivets (4) from front glides with 1/4 inch bit. Inserted cork portion first followed by metal piece (I think it was teflon)and installed the rivets. Two observations here. First there were no instructions and, since my old guides were completely gone, I had to guess at the orientation. There is a pertruding tab on both pieces which I oriented to toward the drum. Once it is in its pretty obvious that the orientation is correct but you might ponder it for a minute or so. Second, one of my rivets didn't flatten out completely (probably operator error). I'm pretty sure there would have been plenty of clearance but I drilled it out and replaced it anyway. Bottton line, having a couple of extra rivets on hand might not be a bad idea. Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. The biggest issue will be the drive belt. Since I have replaced mine before (twenty five years old and two kids with cloth diapers -- its had alot of use) I draped the belt over the back portion of the drum before I re-install the tumbler unit. Get a helper or a piece of wood to support the tumbler and then reach over the top to position the belt. Now the tough part -- especially if you have big hands like mine. You need to reach in and fish the belt onto the motor pulley and then the tensioner. It may take two or three trys but you'll get it. Then I loosely installed the front drum support. At this point rotate the drum by hand to position the belt and run your hand around the inside of the tumbler to check the felt seal front and back. Tighten the front drum support, reinstall the front panel and you are done.
Note. I chose to do everything from the front. There is a panel in the rear that will give you access to the motor. If you have the room and and can get easy access to the rear panel, it will make installing the belt easier. I don't so I chose to work everythig from the front. Timewise I suspect it is about even.

Fairly straight foward repair 1. unplug power 2.remove dyer door.3. remove clips top side they hold the top 4.lay top over and front panel cover will also lay flat 5.install baffles(you"ll ned to roll the tumbler over by hand).6. most important! vacuum out lint and debris including the vent hose &.reverse the 5 steps and viola

Took 2 screws out of front panel, set it to the side. Took 4 screws out of next panel. Remove guard over the thermo switch, 2 screws . Remove panel that held blower wheel in place. Took e-ring clip off of shaft, then took needle nose pliers and remove retainer clip, replaced blower wheel.