Models > LWA50AW > Instructions

LWA50AW (PLWA50AW) Amana Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for LWA50AW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the LWA50AW
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Belt wore out

  • Customer: Bruce from Medina OH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 113 of 134 people found this instruction helpful
Had to remove pump-not easy. Nothing wrong with pump, but had to trash it to get it off the motor shaft, so I had to replace it, too.

Pop up top of cabinet and remove front panel. (I leaned unit back against a wall to facilitate internal access once panel was removed.)


Remove motor assy - 4 screws & connector.

Remove 3 pump screws (torx) and 2 hoses. Pry pump off motor shaft (not easy). I used a heat gun to help expand the plastic fitting on the motor shaft.

Remove old belt, put on new belt. (Do not use automotive belt-this belt is designed to slip because it also spins the tub. The tub will not spin when it's full of water, and the pump will not pump the water if the tub is bogging down the pump. Plus, you will probably overheat the motor.)

Press new pump back on motor shaft (advise not to re-use old pump as seals were probably damaged by removal process.)

Caution: Pressing pump onto motor shaft may cause pump rotor to bind in housing. Try to press it on a little too far so you back off slightly.

Replace pump screws.

Replace motor, giving attention to belt alignment.

Replace motor screws and connector.

Re-attach hoses on pump.

Button up cabinet.

Done.

The hardest part was removing the pump. If not for that, it would have been a 15-min, $20 repair.

Because I felt it wise to replace the pump also, it was a $70 repair.

DRIVE PUMP LEAKED

  • Customer: Stephen from Laveen AZ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 54 of 64 people found this instruction helpful
It took some trial and error but overall not a difficult project.

1. Take the front covers off.
2. Undo the pully spring to loosen belt
3. Remove belt off idler pulley wheel and free up belt from the large wheel.
4. Disconect the wiring harness and the hoses.
5. Undo the motor mounting bolts (4)
6. Take motor out of washer and remove the 3 screws holding the pump to the motor.
7. The pump had melted to the shaft and required I chisel the pump off of the shaft.
8. Attach new pump paying attention to where the belt is positioned.
9. Reattach the motor bolts, hoses, and wiring harnes.
10. Attach the belt and test the pump.
11. Put the front back on.

Noisy during spin cycle

  • Customer: Gary from Dousman WI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 52 of 56 people found this instruction helpful
This was the second time for the repair. The original bearing lasted 5 years then became noisy. Replaced it, and the unit worked great 5 more years and the noise came back. So I knew exactly what needed fixing what to order, parts wise. This is not a project for the faint of heart, you will completely disassemble your washer to change out the main bearing. Roughly here are the steps: 1, pull out the agitator with a good firm jerk up. 2, remove the rubber plug in the center of the drive hub, 3 remove the bolt you have just exposed. 4, pry up on the hub, use a puller if you have to to remove it. 5, pry off the cone shaped rubber seal and remove the large main nut from the drive shaft. 6, remove the 4 bolts holding tub, 7 remove the front panel and unscrew the front of the top panel, tip the top up. 8, lift out the tub, 9, remove the 6 large springs holdig the inner assembly to the base, 10, disconnect the water to tank hose and the fill level hose, 11, disconnect the motor cable at the motor, 12, free up the drain hose and pull it, 13, have a helper lift the inner assembly out and move it to a work area, 14, unbolt the drum from the base, motor, and counter weight 15, pry the drive hub off the transmission shaft, 16, remove the rubber seal from the drum, 17 flip the drum and remove the 3 bolts holding the bearing in place. Reverse to put it back. These steps are from memory so they may not be exact. The exploded views on PartsSelect.com web help, as to the instructions that come with the parts.

The spin belt failed due to overloading the washing machine.

  • Customer: Mark from Cheektowaga NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 29 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged the washing machine and turned off the water to the machine. Removed the two front covers; unhooked the two front springs; removed the (4) motor mounting bolts; unhooked the two hoses for the water pump; unhooked the wiring harness; removed the belt from the driven pulley; pulled the motor assembly out; removed the (3) screws to separate the water pump from the motor; removed the belt from the motor pulley; installed new belt and repeated above in reverse to put everything back together; started washing machine and it worked great.

THE SEAL ON THE BOTTOM OF THE TUB WAS LEAKING

  • Customer: HOWARD from CORTLAND OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 30 of 36 people found this instruction helpful
REMOVED THE FRONT OF THE WASHER, THEN LIFTED THE TOP UP AND HELD IT UP WITH A PROP. PULLED THE AGITATOR STRAIGHT UP AND STARTED THE DISASEMBLY. USING THE PHOTOS IN THE HUB AND SEAL KIT WAS A BIG HELP. THE LARGE NUT ON THE OUTPUT SHAFT HAD TO BE CUT OFF WITH MY DREMEL TOOL AND THE HUB REMOVED WITH A WHEELER PULLER. ASSEMBLY WAS PRETTY MUCH STRAIGHT FORWARD. PRIMED THE PUMP AND STARTED THE MACHINE FOR THE STATED TIME AND WAS A SUCESS.

Water leaking on floor from "mysterious place underneath washer"

  • Customer: Bryan from Chicago IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 23 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
Water was leaking on the floor during the wash cycle and especially during draining of the washer. I removed the front panel at ground level and watched while draining after a rinse.

I t was obvious that water was spraying from a hole in the rubber end of the hose (the hose is a fused assembly of a plastic section and a rubber section).

So, I finished draining, removed the hose (required pliers to squeeze off a hose clamp).

Upon inspecting the hose, it was also apparent that the hole was caused by rubbing against a support bracket for the motor. This should not happen, but it did because the plastic standoff supposed to keep the hose away from the bracket was installed 180 degrees backwards.

So, I simply replaced the hose and turned the bracket around to the correct orientation.

Everything worked as planned and my repair cost was much less than if I had called someone out.

Washer wouldn't drain

  • Customer: William from Fayetteville NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 18 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
I was doing laundry one day, and noticed that the washer did not drain. I drained the water via a shop vac and checked the hoses. There was a baby sock stuck in the hose leading to the pump! I cleared the jam and the washer finally drained again. Once I ran another load, the washer wouldn't drain. I repeated the procedure, and found that the motor was spinning but the pump was not working. I disconnected the machine and proceded to remove the pump. I found that, due to blockage, the motor had reamed out the housing that turns the pump. So, at the advice of my father, who has used this site for other repairs, I entered the model make and number. I was able to view an exploded schematic of the washer in order to correctly identify the part I needed. I found the part, ordered it, and it came to me in about 2 days. I replaced the pump, and my washer has worked great ever since. Thank you PartSelect.com.

tub leaking water

  • Customer: Raymond from East Sandwich MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Socket set, Wrench set
  • 16 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
Took off the agitator, removed inner tub, exposing the hub drive. Found fusion between hub drive and agitator shaft. Rather than using a wheel puller as instructions recommended I got my masonry hammer and removed the drive hub in pieces. Removed debris from the tub. Installed sealant around lower seal as instructed. Re-assembled inner tub, agitator with new upper seal. Plugged in the washer, turned on the water. No leak. Happy happy.

NOT SPINNING OUT / LEAKING PUMP

  • Customer: Anthony from Mullica Hill NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 16 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
ALL WENT WELL
1-REMOVE FRONT PANEL 2 SCREWS
2-REMOVE 2 FRONT SPRINGS TILT TUB
3-FORWARD BOTTOM OUT
4-REMOVE PUMP 3 TORX SCREWS
5-R AND R BELT PULLEY AND SPRING
REASSEMBLE

FAST SERVICE AS WELL THANK YOU

leaky seal wreaked main bearing

  • Customer: Brian from Okauchee WI
  • Difficulty: Very Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 19 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
Bearing is inexpensive but the seal kit is usually needed also

water pump leaking on floor

  • Customer: Jarom from spring TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 16 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
took off 2 bolts
on front panel (at the bottom). removed the spring tentioner.
next i spun the belt around until it came off
the pullies.
Then i removed 4 bolts holding the (pump and motor) spun this around to expose the pump screws(4) Took off the pump and did the same inreverse order except i put a new belt on also...
Good LUCK!!!

Washer wouldn't fill on hot selection, OK on cold

  • Customer: Charles from Vista CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 14 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the electrical power plug and disconnect the water hoses at the back. Remove the lower front panel by taking out the two screws at the bottom edge. Then lift out the upper front panel which exposes the two sheet metal screws holding down the top panel. Lift open the top panel and secure it up about 90 degrees so it doesn't flop over backwards. Twine tied to something overhead works fine. Replacement procedure for the valve is obvious, once exposed.

Bearing went out causing lots of noise.

  • Customer: mike from hull IA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 16 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
This is not a bad repair, but give yourself some time. I did not have to take the tranny and motor out, but the inner and outer tub and all related parts had to come out, along with the outer tub base. If you are replacing the tub bearing, you HAVE to order the seal kit. Don't try to skimp like I did, since you will need the seal kit as this is what causes that bearing to fail in the first place. We forgot how quiet the washer was after I fixed it, and it saved us from buying a new washer since we were ready to say the heck with it and buy a new pair. You might need an 1.5 inch socket to get the big nut off the spindle, but I was able to get with a visegrip and hammer. The nice thing about this repair is even if you screw it up, you won't have water all over the place because of the seal design. I just checked under the washer a few times for the first few weeks and all seems fine.

Machine would start to spin and shut off.

  • Customer: Andrea from Hauppauge NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 12 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the front cover to gain access to the motor. I saw that the belt was starting to get chewed up so I removed it. While looking at the schematic on Parts.com I noticed the Idler Pulley Wheel was much larger then one currently on the machine. I ordered that also in case I needed it. I needed it. Once I replaced the belt and the pulley the machine ran better then ever. Originally I thought I just needed the belt but thanks to Parts.com I realized I needed a little more. Thanks.

Did not know the hub nut hex wrench was needed till I got everything torn apart

  • Customer: Robert from Yucaipa CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
I did as the directions said that came with the kit. Except everything came off by hand until I got to the hub nut. Instead of waiting for another shipment and buying a tool I would have used once and never touched again I called SEARS and a technician came to my house because I did not have the hub nut hex wrench. He called it a spanner wrench. Once he used the tool to get off the nut I was in business. Until I had to put the nut back on. I ended up wrapping a towel around the end of a 12" adjustable crescent wrenc and litle by little smacked it with a hammer until the nut looked like it was all the way down. Just to put the nut back on my way took almost an hour alone. The directions said that a puller was needed to get off the adjutator shaft (unsure of correct name), but it came off with a little wiggleing. Once I put the new one on it would not budge off so a small puller would have been needed to remove it if I needed to again. And puting it back on was a chore in it self. I ended up using a hammer and 6" 1/2" drive extension with a 20 something MM socket on the end to force it down all the way. And the shat that the large seal goes over also requires a tool which is also not mentioned until you read the directions. I was able to twist and force on the new one with a little bit of included grease around the meeting surface. For the most part the directions were correct, but left out a bunch of nice to know things that the average person who is not mechnically inclined may not have figured out. Overall the whole procedd was pretty easy once all the tools were available. Suggestions I would make are to say in the advertisement of the seal kit that the Hub nut hex wrech (spanner wrench) and seal tool will be needed inorder to complete the removal and/ or installation. Which are sold seprately.
All Instructions for the LWA50AW
1-15 of 144