Models > LWA50AW > Instructions

LWA50AW (PLWA50AW) Amana Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for LWA50AW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the LWA50AW
61-75 of 143
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Washer broke belt & Idler pulley

  • Customer: Audie from Lexington AL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
First removed all screws with a nutdriver then lifted the body from the base. Removed the two hoses at the pump (be ready for excess water). Removed the 9/16 bolts (4) to drop the motor assy. I also took off the two front balance springs to have easy access. I at this point was able to remove the pulley and put new belt & pump on the motor. Remember to watch carefully to align belt. removing the idler pulley is a no brainer. Took about 45mins. to complete, a no pro job!!

Drain Hose had a crack and leaked

  • Customer: Bernard from Pinellas Park FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Removed front panel; loosened hose clamp at pump; removed existing drain hose. Easy part.
Installed new hose at pump and tightened hose clamp. Somewhat difficult.
1. Your hose design should be solid flexible rubber hose instead of corrugated type. Had rough time snaking hose to the pump.
2. Your future designs should have rubber hose or hard piping to the exit hole on the back panel and terminated in a male fitting, then connect flexible hose from fitting to drain line. Similar to "hot & cold " water connections.
3. For future customers- care should be taken installing the "black" portion ; it kinked on me 2 or 3 times because you have to keep rotating the entire hose to keep the "black" portion straight.

Hose was in contact with bracket for tub causing the hose to wear thru.

  • Customer: Joseph from Groveville NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Very easy repair. Removed the lower front panel of the washing machine (two screws) with nutdriver.

Removed hose clamp with pliers. Removed hose from machine. Replaced hose and ran thru a full cycle to check for leaks.

No leaks, back in business in under an hour. This time includes going out to garage and gather the two tools needed for the job and cleaning up the water that came out of the hose during the removal process.

A small river running out the bottom front.

  • Customer: Terry from Brentwood CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
I used my three jaw slide hammer to remove the pump from the motor. How are other people getting it off? Pump made alot of rubbing noise after installation. I tried pushing it on farther and also prying it back off a little with no luck. It's really cheap looking and I was scared of breaking it. The thing wasn't leaking so I called it good....

Bad tube seals and bearings

  • Customer: DAVID from SANDY HOOK CT
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
Disassembled washer as per directions with seal kit. Removed inner tub. Cut both tub shaft bearing in half; punched out from outter tub. Installed new bearings using .5 inch threaded rod, washer and bolts. Installed new seal on inner tub shaft. Installed inner tube. Re-assembled washer.

Leak from seal on pump

  • Customer: Jim from Courtland VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
This washer was "professionally" repaired six months ago....that being said, I found two of the three Torx screws holding the pump to the motor to be lying inside the cabinet. This allowed the pump to move and wallow out the seal. Replaced the pump and replaced the screws correctly. No leaks, no problems. Pump is an exact replacement from PartSelect and ease of installation was no problem. Would suggest if you are going to replace the pump, order the three screws and replace them too.

Leaking pump

  • Customer: Joseph from Goldsboro NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
1. unplug unit 2. remove front access plate 3. disconnect tension spring on drive belt 4. remove 4 motor mount screws 5. disconnect intake and return lines from pump using a pliers to decompress compression rings and sliding lines off. 6. Manipulate motor and loosen drive belt from bottom of tub and let it hang. 7. tilt motor bottom out exposing pump and remove 3 screws using TREX head driver and remove pump. 8. install new pump

Pump worn out - Leaking

  • Customer: Charles from Portsmouth VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
Part received was correct (5 days ARO). Removed motor assy from unit (left wires connected). Found drive belt was also worn out & obtained a new one locally. Seperated old pump from rusted motor shaft using 2 screwdrivers. Had to use a file to lightly "polish" rust off motor shaft to install new pump. On-line parts diagram helpful in getting belt properly alinged to idler pully. Machine now runs smoothly, dosn't leak and sound like new. Wife happy (me too)!

Water Inlet valve wouldn't work for cold water

  • Customer: DAVID from ORLAND PARK IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Water inlet valve was different than the one shown on web photo. The hose supplied was the wrong size so I had to use the original old hose. Wire harness had to be modified since the electrodes were on opposite sides of the valve. Overall I was disappointed with the part and the service.

grease in washer

  • Customer: Jan from Denver CO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 3 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
remove agitator then remove center bolt from hub, match bolt with longer bolt so that gear puller will work. install bolt and gear puller and twist top of gear puller until hub is removed. remove old seal ,use sand cloth or emery cloth to remove all deposits from shoulder. make it shinny, use some dawn dishwashing soap to line the inside of the new seal at the bottom and slide into place.take a piece of 2" PVC about 4" long and slide over the top of the seal and tap with a rubber hammer until seal is seated firmly on shoulder. look to see that there are no gaps with a inspection mirror or a make-up mirror.If their are no gaps ,install the hub and tap on the new hub with the rubber hammer. the hub will not seat all the way down so use the old bolt to pull it down, now take out the old bolt and install the new one, this is because the new one has lock tite on it ,your done!

belt was cracking and dryer was somewhat noisy

  • Customer: Melody from Silverton CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
I used your great video for pointers as to what to do. I took off the front, raised the top, vacuumed the whole thing up, that took quite a while. Took out the drum. Did more cleaning. Then took off the old retaining rings with retaining ring pliers, took off the old drum rollers and support. Replaced with new roller supports, washer, roller, washer and retaining rings. Then I replaced the belt. Tested it and turned the wrong way and it came off. Replaced and tested it again and I don't know why but it came off. Replaced the belt again, tested fine. Then I replaced the felt pads and glides, they were worn. I ended up asking my husband to help hold the drum so I could get the front back on. Replaced front and door. Tried the dryer. Works great AND very, very little noise. Note: when taking the wiring off the light and the door switch, I took photo's of those places with my cell phone and had them to look at to make sure the wiring was correct.

One of the two springs in the front left of the machine broke

  • Customer: Stephen from Forked River NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
I tipped the tub towards the area where the springs were and connected them. They broke because that particulary area seemed to get moisture and they rusted. Truthfully, although the machine still works, its last days are just down the road.

Washer was not agitating

  • Customer: John from North Kingstown RI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
Ipulled the front panel off and found that the brake pads had broken into pieces, ordered new pads. Two of the pads were accessed from the front of the machine and were relatively easy to replace by removing the two attaching bolts, spreading gap in area that they fit into with a plastic pry tool. I gained access to the third pad by removing the punch-outs on the side of the machine (circular). If I had not had these prepuched pieces available to me I would have simply cut an access hole in the rear of the machine with a jig saw, (who will ever see it).

noise while spinning

  • Customer: Bruce from Harrison OH
  • Difficulty: Very Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
had to completely disasemble whole washer drum and mechanical components to remove upper bearing on transmission,the drum hub was corroded on the shaft. I had to use a gear puller and a propane torch to get the hub off upper shaft of the transmission. then press the bearings in the respective sheet metal supports. reassembly was alot easier than taking it apart. Not a job for an average homeowner. It would not have been repaired without the wheel puller. all the seals were reusable A week and a half of use later no leaks and works great

Hole in Drain Hose

  • Customer: Mike from Lithonia GA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
I disconnected the water supply line to washer and moved washer into open area. I removed the front panel of washer to gain access to drain hose. I removed hose and reinstalled new hose. I did turn the hose holder inside the washer as it allowed the old hose to rub against the housing support of the washer causing the hose to leak. I was glad that I read the article that someone mentioned in their repair. The new hose was somewhat difficult to maneuver through the back of the washer and through the part that held the hose; otherwise, it was rather easy. Thanks for the feed back on your web page.
All Instructions for the LWA50AW
61-75 of 143