Models > LWA50AW > Instructions

LWA50AW (PLWA50AW) Amana Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for LWA50AW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the LWA50AW
46-60 of 144
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pump and spin belt replacement

  • Customer: James from Glendale CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the online line advise but I wait to add a few important notes. First, clean and use Loctite (blue works fine) on the four sheet mental screws holding the motor assembly to the internal frame. Next, mark the two capasator wire as they will have also to be removed. You probaby won't find the exact spin belt number on PartSeclect's site. By all means don't guess. Call the 1.888.895.1535 help number. They have all the cross-reference part numbers for the correct length belt.

Leaking Water

  • Customer: Mary from San Bernardino CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
I called Lucky Buy when I realized it was more than the drain hose.
I asked if they would install for the same $55 if I got the parts online for less than their price & they said yes.
Once the parts came, they came back (Initial call was $20) for the $55 part replacement call.
At one point he said he had to leave & came back in 20 mins with the pump sawed off (into pieces - it was frozen on the base!)...
He also installed a new belt (Also ordered here for less than their quote!) +
I got braided steel hoses and (3) sets of screens (I'll start changing them annually!) ~
The washer now fills AT LEAST 4x as quickly with new hoses & screens!
The clothing comes out MUCH LESS DAMP with the new belt!
+ it is FAR QUIETER with the new belt!
We're in HEAVEN over here! :-)
ONE THING:
One that first load after the repair, I noticed the water level (Set, as always, to XL) was over halfway UP the side of the agitator's fabric softner dispenser, but thought MAYBE I was "misremembering", but nooo, I don't think I was because LOTS of water spilled out the MIDDLE FRONT BOTTOM once it did the cycle...
(This did not happen when he tested it before leaving - on the SMALL cycle (Which we NEVER use)...
SO!
QUICK FIX:
We set the water level to "LARGE" and all's been fine ever since! :-)
Anyone know whick part we need for the water to stop UNDER the bottom of the fabric softner, like it used to?

I am VERY PLEASED to have found this site and Lucky Buy - I am _SURE_ I saved WAY OVER $100 total (Parts & Labor) & my 15-year old machine is AS GOOD AS NEW NOW (almost - that leak's got to GO! :-)

brake pad was broken and spinning around making noise

  • Customer: Alan from Shepherd MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
this machine seems good to work on because almost every thing is done from the front without pulling it away from the wall. Removed front lower cover by removing two screws. There are three brake pads with two bolts each. applied silicone grease to each pad and put it back togather

belt kept falling off and makeing noise from belt

  • Customer: steven from tenafly NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
pulled cover off face of machine to gain axcess
saw pulley had come off brass sleeve( Bad design should have had a larger washer on bottom to help support pulley ) would of prevented this problem
Removed motor to gain axcess to pulley and belt change . Keep a towel near by to catch any extra water still in hoses on lower pump

washer did not evacuate water

  • Customer: Lidia from Fort Worth TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
I have call the number that is at the washer top they recomended 2 maytag repair places i call the 1st one and 2nd one charge 75 dollars for estimate and 2nd 65.00 i pay 65 dollars for him to come to my house and turn the washer on for 2 sec. and gave me an estimated of 839. w/that money i can buy another washer i call my dad and ask him to help me to pull the washer apart and thats how i find out it need it the pump search the web and find partselect order and i was expecting the part to arrive 5-6 days later and to my surprise i receive the parts next day w/outpaying next day shipping, and start the repair. Remove the screws from the front of the washer to get access to the bottom of the waher where the motor is the pump is located under the motor. remove 1 of the springs the holds the outer tube, remove 4 more screws to pull the motor out, remove the shield motor and pull the pump out replace w/new one and put everythig back together.( recomendation) pay attention to how thing are before you start if possible keep screws and label separate like top screw,middle screws etc....... thank you Lidia

Timer was worn out.

  • Customer: Pearl A from Flagstaff AZ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
Installed new timer. Worked like a champ. Thank you for the part.

Water would not shut off

  • Customer: Walter from Hampton NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
Sunday night - removed old valve and hose 15 min went online, found & ordered part - 15 min - part showed up Tuesday afternoon, replaced defective valve 15 min - did laundry! Couldn't have been easier or less expensive!

Water inlet valve was clog. water was very slow to fill the machine.

  • Customer: Lawrence from Saranac Lake NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
I unplug the power plug, turned off water supply and unsrewed the water lines connected to the clogged valve.I unsrewed six screws on the front of the washing machine and took the front panals off. lifted the the washing top and replace the hose and intake valve, which was shipped to me. put the top down and put the two front panals. reconnected the water supply to the new valve and turned the water back on. connected the electric plug.works as good as new.

Seal Kit

  • Customer: Pat from Rio Rancho NM
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Taking the hub out was a promblem because, with a puller it did not come out. It broke off while pulling out we had to drill it
out had to brake off.You need a 1 1/2 inch deep socket with a impact wrench. It was a hassel but got done. I replaced the whole seal kit and it is still leaking it leaks from the bottom of the tub. It leaks worse when it has a heavy load I dont know what to do.Need help.

tub would not stop spinning--brakes broke from bolts

  • Customer: GARY from VILLA RIDGE MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Unpluged electric, diconnected dicharge hose from wall drain, disconnected water lines from rear of washer and at wall hose connection, removed lower front panel, removed large front panel, disconnected hoses at motor(put towels at hoses to catch water leakage)THEN-took washer to the garage and tuned up side down. Removed front two tub springs, removed (4) motor bolts, removed electrical harness from motor, remove and replaced new brake pads. NOTE:brake pads need to be somewhat driven(pushed hard) into brake pad slots. Also it was easier to install the rear pad by removing the 4" knock-out at the side of the washer. Somehow reinstall the knock-out to keep mice and animals from entering the interior of the washer. THEN- reinstall all items in reverse order. Any one mechaniclly minded can replace the brake pad. My wife and I saved lots by doing the replacement myself. THE END. Good job Gary Final note:besure to intall the drive "v" belt around the 2" pulley wheel.Very important.

washing cycles incomplete

  • Customer: Myron from Des Plaines IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the 5 screws holding the control panel in place then tilted panel forward to gain access to the mounting screws to the timer and the electrical connection and removed and replaced the timer. Worked great the first time.

Idler wheel seperated from bushing,snap ring came off

  • Customer: William from Westmoreland NH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
First always unplug appliance.Then I shut off the water.I took the front off the washer.Saw the idler was the problem.Ordered parts and new belt.Removed motor assy,and removed pump.Checked impellors and pump bearing.Installed new parts for idler.Installed belt.Re-installed pump to motor,then re-installed entire assy.Turned on water and ecectricity.Ran complete cycle to test.Re-installed front cover.

no cold or cool water only hot

  • Customer: Linda from Carlos MN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
It was so simple I don't think I even need to explain. Couple of screws in and out and done. Saved big money by doing the repair myself...I was surprised how quickly the part arrived. I was able to access from the back of my machine. Did not have to remove the top. Very easy thanks

Had to pull the motor to change the belt

  • Customer: John from Nesconset NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged washer from power source. Dissconnect the water supply. Take off lower panel. Undo big spring. Remove 4 bolts that hold the motor. Unplug the motor. remove motor and belt. While on the bench I regreased the Idler pulley. then reverse the procedure to reassemble

Washer was leaking on floor

  • Customer: Walter from Cairo GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
First, I printed all the diagrams on the Partselect site so I would know how things went together.

I removed the two screws at the bottom of the front panel and removed the panel by pulling the bottom out allowing the top to come off he retaining clips. I then used pliers to remove the two springs holding the front of the washer tub to the base. Then I removed the spring that attached to the idler arm and the motor. (I also took digital pictures of everything in case I forgot the routing of the belt, the location of springs, etc.) Next I loosened the clamps holding the inlet and outlet hoses to the pump. The water loss was minimal as my washer was still functioning, but I could see that if the washer died with a full tub, there could be a lot of water. I then slipped the 2 hoses off the pump. Next I removed the four bolts holding the motor/pump combo from the frame. I unpluged the electrical connector (on the top left side of the pump....it has a locking tab on top that must be depressed to remove it). Then tilt the bottom of the motor/pump combo up and forward to allow it to come out of the machine. Please note the routing of the belt for replacement later.

The pump has 3 screws (torx) that attaches it to the motor. In most cases, it seems the pump will seize to the motor shaft due to the heat of the motor over time. Since the pump is bad anyway, I simply chiseled it off the motor shaft using a flat blade screwdriver and hammer. It is tempting to put the screwdriver between the motor pulley and pump, but this will only bend the pulley.......I know from experience. It will take several good whacks but eventually the pump will come off. In my case the pump had leaked enough that the end of the motor shaft was slightly pitted and corroded. I took a file and cleaned up the end so the new pump would slide on properly. I also put a small amount of machine oil on the motor shaft and wiped it good just to make the pump easier to mount. I then slide the pump on the motor shaft, replaced the 3 torx screws (make sure you have the belt in the right position.....one run of it goes inside the pump mounting stud.) I then reversed the process.....remounted the motor/pump combo, reattached the power connector, replaced the belt on the pulley beneath the drum, reattached the idler tension spring, reattached the 2 hoses and clamps, and reattached the 2 drum holddown springs. I then inserted the top of the front panel on the two clips and tilted it back down into place and replaced the 2 screws at the bottom front.

All in all, it was very easy..........taking only an hour or so. My belt was still in good condition, but I could advise you to go ahead and replace the belt while you are in there. It also could be practical to replace the pulley on top of the pump, as it is easy to bend. I did bend mine, but managed to straighten it back out.

After completing the repair, the washer works perfectly with no leaks.
All Instructions for the LWA50AW
46-60 of 144