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PartSelect Number PS1594294
This pump is attached to the motor and helps expel water from the washing machine. It is activated after the spin speed is maintained for a specific period of time.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Had to remove pump-not easy. Nothing wrong with pump, but had to trash it to get it off the motor shaft, so I had to replace it, too.Pop up top of cabinet and remove front panel. (I leaned unit back against a wall to facilitate internal access once panel was removed.)Remove motor assy - 4 screws & connector.Remove 3 pump screws (torx) and 2 hoses. Pry pump off motor shaft (not easy). I used a heat gun to help expand the plastic fitting on the motor shaft.Remove old belt, put on new belt. (Do not use automotive belt-this belt is designed to slip because it also spins the tub. The tub will not spin when it's full of water, and the pump will not pump the water if the tub is bogging down the pump. Plus, you will probably overheat the motor.)Press new pump back on motor shaft (advise not to re-use old pump as seals were probably damaged by removal process.)Caution: Pressing pump onto motor shaft may cause pump rotor to bind in housing. Try to press it on a little too far so you back off slightly.Replace pump screws.Replace motor, giving attention to belt alignment.Replace motor screws and connector.Re-attach hoses on pump.Button up cabinet.Done.The hardest part was removing the pump. If not for that, it would have been a 15-min, $20 repair.Because I felt it wise to replace the pump also, it was a $70 repair.
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It took some trial and error but overall not a difficult project. 1. Take the front covers off. 2. Undo the pully spring to loosen belt 3. Remove belt off idler pulley wheel and free up belt from the large wheel. 4. Disconect the wiring harness and the hoses. 5. Undo the motor mounting bolts (4) 6. Take motor out of washer and remove the 3 screws holding the pump to the motor. 7. The pump had melted to the shaft and required I chisel the pump off of the shaft. 8. Attach new pump paying attention to where the belt is positioned. 9. Reattach the motor bolts, hoses, and wiring harnes. 10. Attach the belt and test the pump. 11. Put the front back on.
I was doing laundry one day, and noticed that the washer did not drain. I drained the water via a shop vac and checked the hoses. There was a baby sock stuck in the hose leading to the pump! I cleared the jam and the washer finally drained again. Once I ran another load, the washer wouldn't drain. I repeated the procedure, and found that the motor was spinning but the pump was not working. I disconnected the machine and proceded to remove the pump. I found that, due to blockage, the motor had reamed out the housing that turns the pump. So, at the advice of my father, who has used this site for other repairs, I entered the model make and number. I was able to view an exploded schematic of the washer in order to correctly identify the part I needed. I found the part, ordered it, and it came to me in about 2 days. I replaced the pump, and my washer has worked great ever since. Thank you PartSelect.com.
All went well 1-remove front panel 2 screws 2-remove 2 front springs tilt tub 3-forward bottom out 4-remove pump 3 torx screws 5-r and r belt pulley and spring reassemble fast service as well thank you
took off 2 bolts on front panel (at the bottom). removed the spring tentioner.next i spun the belt around until it came offthe pullies.Then i removed 4 bolts holding the (pump and motor) spun this around to expose the pump screws(4) Took off the pump and did the same inreverse order except i put a new belt on also...Good LUCK!!!
This was on a machine at a friends house I was watching while he was away. I spent more time looking for tools than the actual repair. Once I figured out how to get the front panel off (two bolts at the bottom of the front panel) the problem was easy to diagnose, water was running out of the pump seal. When the parts arrived the repair took about 15 minutes. Shut offpower. remove the 2 bolts holding the plastic cover over the wiring harness, remove the cover and unplug the wiring harness. Losen up the clamps on the hoses to the pump. Place a towel or drip pan under the pump when you pull the hoses lose. Next remove the four bolts at the base of the motor/pump mount. Slip the belt below the bottom of the tub pulley and remove the motor/pump assembly. Remember the position of the idler/tensioner pulley in relation to the belt. Pull the pump off the shaft by removing the three torx head screws holding the pump to the bracket and replace. Reverse the procedure to reassemble. It is a good idea to replace the belt when replacing the pump, the one in the machine I was repairing was cracked and dry, on its last lap. Good luck.
Please read the comments from other people before you start the repair. The hints are great, and save you time.Removing the old pump from the shaft with two screwdriversby gently prying it off the shaft was the best idea. Once the pump is removed from the motor, it is a snap to replace the belt, and tension pulley if necessary. The metal surfaces are sharp inside the machine, and I suggest placing a good light inside the machine so that you can see where the belt goes. Follow Joseph's instructions from Goldsboro NC to a tee, and your repair will be a great experience.PeterWestport, Ma
Unplug the washer to prevent shock while handling motor. Remove the front botton access panel. Move the drive belt off the idler pulley to provide slack to move belt off the other pulleys. Note position or take picture of belt position before removal to aid in getting it in the correct position for reinstallation. Move the hose clamps up the hoses far enough to remove the hoses from the pump. A towel is handy here as there is still a little water in the hoses and pump. Remove the four bolts holding the motor bracket to the bottom of the washer. The wiring to the motor does not need to be disconnected. Rotate the bracket with motor and pump attached so that the assembly is horizontal and the pump is to the right hand side. Use the torx bit to remove the bolts holding the pump in place. Install the new pump, being careful to get the drive belt in the proper position while doing so. Do not over tighten the bolts on the new pump since it is plastic. Rotate the motor bracket back to its original position and install the four bolts. Get all four bolts installed loosely before tightening any fully to insure the bracket is aligned properly and none of the bolts will be in a bind. Once the bolts are tight, put the drive belt on the small pulley and then work in around to position on the large pulley. Position the belt back into its position on the idler pulley. Put the hoses on the pump as far as they will go then slide the hose clamps back into their original position. Replace the bottom access panel and plug the washer back in.
To replace the pump and belt for the Maytag washer, you really need remove the springs and suspended the tubs. I needed help to pull the 2 springs out (high tension) with a big plier. I removed the 3 bolts that held the motor to the frame and flipped it out to the side to expose the 3 long screws that attached the pump to the motor. The pump was easily removed and replaced with the Philip screw driver. I preset the belt between the pump and the rotor before sliding the motor back in place. After botling the motor back into the frame and carefully pull and snap the spring back into the holes, I routed the belt around the pulley and turned it into the groove. This took some time to get it on properly as it is pretty tight. Once the cover was replaced, the washer worked as expected.
Removed front panel.Released 2 springs on belt tensioner.Rolled drive belt off pulleys.Unscrewed 4 bolts holding washer motor assembly.Tilted motor to get at pump screws.Removed 3 pump screws and pump slid right off shaft.Aligned new pump and reinstalled screws.Set motor assembly loosely in place.Rolled drive belt onto pulleys.Re-attached tension springs.Installed motor assembly bolts.Re-installed front panel.** I should have replaced drive belt at same time, but it is working with no leaks.
I suggest if you are replacing the pump, order the belt at the same time, you must remove the pump to replace the belt.
I followed the online line advise but I wait to add a few important notes. First, clean and use Loctite (blue works fine) on the four sheet mental screws holding the motor assembly to the internal frame. Next, mark the two capasator wire as they will have also to be removed. You probaby won't find the exact spin belt number on PartSeclect's site. By all means don't guess. Call the 1.888.895.1535 help number. They have all the cross-reference part numbers for the correct length belt.
pull front cover off of machine, disconnect motor wiring harness. Remove 4 sheet metal screws holding motor / pump assembly to frame. Remove both pump hoses (caution - have towels and a bucket at the ready). Pull unit from machine. turn upside down on bench and replace components. Reverse for installation.
removed hoses from pump, removed 4 screws holding motor housing to washer, disconnected wiring from motor. It will make your life easier to re-assemble if you pay attention to how belt is located in relation to the legs of the pump. pump came off motor very easily. I had the old pump out and the new pump in and working in about 30 minutes.
Disconnect power and water, opened up front end by removing four self-tapping screws, removed the electric motor assembly from frame of machine, replace pump and belt and reassembled.
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