Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Cann't start
Hi there, I received the parts from you in short period of time, take its out 4 screw with screw drivers, Open the pannel, unscrew one nut with nut driver, take it out Lid assembly I put it in myself, It worked wonderful, I do appreciate your service in " Do-it-Yourself" system.
I called a local repair service and they wanted 95 bucks for the first 30 minuets. Any thing over that was an additional 45 bucks per half hour, plus parts. Since the washer was 19 years old I thought it would cost around 300 big ones to get it repaird. We could buy a new similar model for about 550 bucks so I said, what the heck. I'll invest the 18 bucks to see if this 80 year old can fix it. The repair instruction I read on your on line were perfect. FIXED IN ABOUT 20 MINUETS.Installed the lid switch, saved a bundle and maybe another 19 years on the washer. Thanks a bunch. Walt Apple Valley Mn
My dryer is 35 years old and thought this was it, but I googled the question and found out it was the door switch. Orderd the part and received it very fast and didn't want to wait for my husband to come home so I went on you tube and found a video how to open dryer and change switch. I did it in about 30 min. and yes it is now perfect again. No problems. I just unscrewed the old switch and put the new one in. Maybe I'll get another 35 years out of this machine. :o) Thanks for making it so easy.
Found instructions at this web site, got part in a couple days, changed Lid Check Switch in 15 minutes, washer was up and running again. Best website for fixing stuff I've seen!
I took the front off the machine and ran the cycle to see when it was leaking. I found it was leaking when it was draining the water out on the inside of the machine where it was going out of the machine. I took that part out off the drain hose and ordered the part no that was stamped on the part. The part came in and I reassembled everything and it did not leak.
Unfortunately after i replaced the new switch the drier worked well. After it stopped for the 2nd time we wanted to put a load and start the swit lost contact. It was not working.It lost the contact with the circuit. No clicking sound the drier not functional. I guess need a new switch?
Followed the directions posted by another user. His tips were very important and helpful. At first we only ordered parts where it was leaking, then decided we might as well change the remaining parts as recommended by the other user in his description. This is the FIRST issue we have had in 19 years of use. Ordered the parts, received them quickly and correctly. Installed them and it works like a new machine. This Maytag will probably last another 19 years.
Followed the first guys directions. remove front lift top remove agitator remove locking nut clockwise remove inner tub remove Mounting S loosen set screw and clockwise also clean well replace boot as shown in tip in sheet push boot on completely
Fill Injector Broke - A mouse may have contributed
I opend up the housing, found the broken part, ordered it, installed it, and had the washer working within 4 days of the initial break down. Saved a lot of money over a service call, as well as time, and trips to the laundramat.
Loosened the set screw and removed the agitator, found nothing wrong. Replaced the agitator and tightened set screw, no more wobble. This is a mid 1970 Maytag and a workhorse.Had three kids wash over the years, now "kids" in their late 30's and early 40' and washer is as good as new (except a little rusty)
First time I had a problem with it. Sometimes just look for the simple things !
Part select refunded me for my part that I ordered very fast.
After reading partselect.com and a few other web sites, I thught the leak was either a hose clamp, hose, or syphon break.
1. Two screws at the bottom front are removed, 2. Bottom front moved away from the machine unitl the top clips allow it to come off. 3. Remove 2 hex head screws from the lid (look up, use a nut driver or I used a socket. 4. LIft the lid from the front (similar to lifting a car hood) 5. Syphon Break is in the top back right. 6. 4 screws in the back and a hose clamp that connects to the pump. 7. Put it all back together in reverse.
I had considered replacing the hoses while I was at it, but they all looked fine. Suggest you order the Syphone Break "Kit" because it contains clamp, and ring gasket that is between the break and the discharge elbow.
Works Great! Saved myself at least $150 in service call and parts markup.
The machine had leaked late last year; replacing the interior hoses fixed it, but the leak came back.
To diagnose the problem, I used a short, #2 phillips screwdriver to remove the two retaining screws under the front panel indentation. I pivoted the front panel toward me, unhooked it from its retaining hangers, and set it aside.
Inspection revealed that water was running down the exhaust hose from the siphon break, so I unplugged the machine, pulled it away from the wall, removed the two top retaining screws and pulled the top toward me. There was enough play in the wiring harness to leave everything connected.
I used a socket wrench to loosen the hose clamp at the bottom of the siphon break, and to remove the 4 hex head screws that hold the siphon break to the back of the machine. A few twists freed the siphon break, and one glance revealed that its top was covered with soap scum. It clearly needed replacement, so I ordered the part.
Replacement was a piece of cake. I mounted the gasket in the new siphon break, moistened its tube, twisted it into the hose, and tightened the clamp with a socket wrench. I then mated the new part with the old exit elbow, lined up the holes, and installed the retaining screws. I pushed the top back into position, installed the top retaining screws with a socket mounted on a universal nut driver handle, rehung the front panel, and installed the two retaining screws. Presto, good as new!
Everything else is clean. I would much rather replace a few parts and continue using "Old Reliable" than pony up $800 on a new machine.
key to repair is to watch the video on mounting stem/tub seal as seen thru parts select. However, they use a nice new, clean,sanitized washer that may not reflect a 23 year old washer like mine. They give you the basics and it is invaluable to watch if you have never done this before. I strongly advise you buy a real spanner wrench made for your make. You may never need it again but it makes it much easier. Trying to use a punch or using a dremmel to operate on your large 'nuts' is, well, nuts! Get the wrench, just part of the cost of repair. See ebay. The first thing I noticed different between the video and my real life unit is the water hose connected to the washer, at the top of the tub cover. This did not exist in the video, but it is the way on my unit. So I did not disconnect it, just folded the top out of the way and tied it up. Then of course my real gripe with the video is that I have the old time band around the tub and the barrell, holding them together. They do not mate up very well and are not easy to put back together properly. In fact, installing the stem seals was easy and it fixed the original leak. I might add when you buy the replacement parts, you actually get 3 new parts. I suggest you use all the new parts in the package. You paid for them, you need them. Again the video only talks about replacing the very bottom seal, never mentioning the other parts they sold you in the bag. It is easy to figure out how to replace the other parts, they look like the ones you took off to get to the very bottom seal. Use all the new parts, regardless. So the only real issue is putting the band back on to hold the tub to the drum. We did not get it correct the first time and the unit would not spin, I had the top down too far. You could smell the rubber burning from the drive belt. They forgot to tell us about that!! Bums. So we loosened up the band, raised up the top piece and got it to spin. Of course, we did a large load, filled the water to the highest level allowed and when the unit hit the spin cycle, we got a leak from under the band. Thx video. To fix that we decided to never use the highest water level. So far so good. I can tell you the engineers failed on the design to mate up the cover to the tub. Other than that this can be done by us goobers, just take your time. And good luck. I must also thank my helper, neighbor John . for his added wisdom and support.
Washing machine was leaking water around the bottom tub seal.
Found the parts I needed on your website along with a video that showed exactly how to do the repair. Set my iPad on the dryer and followed along step by step. Never would have tried something like this without your helpful information.
Washer would fill but wouldnt do anything else including drain
I followed video instructions which were very helpful and getting to the lid switch assembly was not difficult. After putting it on we still had nothing. I noticed there was quite a bit a corrision on the connecters so we cleaned those with fine emery paper, reconnected them and like magic , the washer is back in business. I was very surprised the part arrived about 36 hours after I placed the order and in just a couple of hours at the most we had a working washer again.I've got partselect.com saved in my favorites for any future diy repairs needed.??
