LAT5004BGW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Unplug machine and remove drain hose clamp and hose from rear of the machine.Using Phillips head screw driver remove the 2 screws from the lower front panel of washer. Lift and remove front panel. Using a small socket, remove 2 screws from the inside top left and right of machine which secures the machines top cover and lift cover up (use duct tape to secure washer lid from opening). At the inside rear top of the machine is the Siphon Break Connector. Loosen clamps, remove old Siphon Break Connector and install new one. Reinstall top cover, front panel and then drain hose.

Remove the rear panel covering the control panel. Remove the two screws on each side of the upper control panel. The top removes with gentle (or not so gentle) taps toward the front of the washer. Lift the upper away but be careful of the attached wires. Top must be removed or switch cannot be removed as it cannot pass the cycle selector. Note the wire positions and colors to the switch assembly, remove them, and loosen the screw holding the switch assembly in place. Tilit assembly up like opening a book and lift up and away from the washer being careful of the lid switch actuator below. Replace with new assembly, making sure actuator is positioned to activate switches, and reattach the same screw. Reattach wires to appropriate places, replace top control panel and reattach screws, replace rear panel.

Removed the damaged legs, replaced with parts from this site and leveled the washer .

Based upon my research on line and my 'hunch' I ordered the Lid Safety Switch for this old Maytag Washer. Got the part in good time and it was very well packaged. After having some difficulty in removing the one nut that held the old switch in place I installed the new switch, plugged it in and was delighted to hear the washer working like the old days. Now I have many, many loads of clothes to catch up on.

Removed the cover on top raised control panel at back of machine. Checked fuse, then lid switch which were okay. Checked Check-lid switch which was bad. Ordered and replaced. I always take pics with cell phone before removing anything to see position, wire colors, etc. Only difficult because of location on check-lid switch. Hard to reach even with right angle screwdriver. Had to bend some of the metal housing above the switch to get screwdriver in there.

Followed above listed advice on replacing

Removed front of control panel on the washer. Found the lid check switch, removed one screw, leaving the wires attached and replaced the old switch with a new one. Removed the wires from the old switch and place them on the new one. Reconnected the machine to the outlet,,closed the lid and listen to it run.

Top came off quickly with socket wrench. Removed gasket in about a minute. Spent 45 minutes getting grime ( soap and lime) off of top. Took five minutes to replace gasket.

Haven't been able to get front back on. Clips go on side rather than top. Found missing clip for which new one was purchased in transmission. Still haven't gotten front to stay on. Clips keep springing out.

Replaced the air tube, existing one had been chewed by mice was easy to replace and solved the issue

well i first put on 2 new belts because they were worn and smoking. the new belts did not fix the problem. you suggested putting in a new pulley. it went against my better judgement that the pulley was defective. well i put in the new pulley and now the real problem has surfaced. the transmission is not working. now i want to order a new tranny and low and behold it is no longer available. well why did you sell me a $99 pulley when that was not the next part to change after the belts were replaced. now i have a new pulley on a washer that is going to the recycle center as metal trash. well on my part i will reward maytag by buying a ge washer now. plus i will not count on using you as my parts supplier.

Repair not that complicated. Remove front, lean top back, remove agitator, remove special nut, remove inner tub, remove seal. Clean shaft and seal surfaces. It is highly recommended to the spanner wrench to remove the special nut. It appears one can do it with a punch and hammer, but the nut is too tight, and corroded from years of water exposure. I believe part number is TJ90TB123A, about $15. Watch the video on this web site, very good.

First I removed the two screws that held the front washer panel in place. Then I removed the two bolts that held the top on the washer. I then had to remove the four screws that held the top panel with the electrical parts in place in order to obtain access to the inside area where the screw was that held the fill injector was located. I next removed the screw that held the fill injector unit in place. I then pulled on the tab that held it in place and moved unit into a better place to replace the fill injector. I had previously cut the hose clamp during my investigation of the problem and replaced it with a pressure clamp. I then unscrewed the clamp, removed the bad fill injector and replaced with new fill injector. I then reversed the entire process to reassemble. The whole process turned out to be easier than I thought! The hardest part was diagnosing the problem in the first place.

I removed the two screws holding the switch and removed it from the machine. I then removed the broken spring and replaced it with the new one sent to me from partselect.com. I reinstalled the repaired switch and turned on the machine. It was easy as that and it works great. PartSelect.com is the best.

Two screws holding top, unhook wire conector. remove cabinet,replace switch. Reassemble.

Very easy, and simple. Replaced part that was sent. It was a simple process, open control panel, unplug machine. Unscrewed the old part, attached the new part and starting working right away. I am very impressed with this company and the speed they shipped the parts. Will continue to use if needed and tell everyone about this site.