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PartSelect Number PS2017342
This plastic siphon break comes with a metallic clamp and gasket. It is used with many washing machines.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
For drain hose 7/8".
Well, I found the washer leaking water from the bottom a couple weeks ago. I finally got around to pulling off the front panel and ran a couple cycles to see where the water was coming from. Turns out the leak was at the plastic pump that does the draining after wash and rinse.So I got the model number and googled online. I found Partselect and they had every part I needed. Took me 10 minutes online to find the parts for my specific washer. I couldn't believe how easy it was. Parts came in two days...and this was right before Xmas.Anyways, changing out the pump was simple. Took 5 minutes to get it off and put the new one in. I decided to change the hoses and elbow siphon break as well while I had the thing apart as those parts were old...but still working well. Got the washer back together and the floor is dry as a bone. Perfect repair, really easy to do. Hardest part was figuring out how to get the front panel off.
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Occasional noted leak became worse and I had a repair service out. Incorrect detection of outer tub seal made so cancelled them and read comments about raising the top. Did so just at start of a rinse cycle to see soapy water shoot from top of syphon break then continue to dribble out through tub empty process--this is what had cause the water to flow down the interior drain hose and out through the side and bottom near the pump.Ordered all the parts shown here and they arrived just in time for planned work. Did not need or use the clamp and gasket purchased as the gasket was included in the break package and I really like the old-style clamps much better.Replaced the break and the elbow and put it back together. Things went south on a rinse as water shot out the back hose at the new elbow. I had not realized the size of the new elbow was smaller than the original. Went back to the old elbow but it bothered me that it would still move when the 4 assembly bolt-screws were completely tight.So far this seems to have worked. There does not seem to be any leaking at all. For those who read this, the job could be done in about and hour for less than I spent if you observe and diagnose properly. It appears that the washer at the end of the Syphon Break wore out and that is what caused the leak.Thanks much to PartSelect for being in business and to all the posters on this site for helping everyone to get these things done right!
1. Unplug power to the washer.2. Remove 2 screws from bottom front panel on either side. Panel then rotates out and unhooks at the top. Remove front panel3. Remove bolts from underneath the top front on both sides using a socket. 4. Rotate the top upward to provide space to see and work.5. From the back of the washer, remove 4 bolts using a socket around the drain tube at the upper left. 6. From the front, the siphon valve can be removed from the inside upper right. 7. From the front, unscrew the clamp holding the drain hose on the water pump housing at the bottom right front and remove the hose. Be prepared for water to drain from the hose. Remove hose and siphon valve together and discard.8. Install new hose on new siphon valve and screw new clamp tight. Make sure the rubber ring is inserted properly on the new valve (See old valve for reference) 9. Holding the siphon valve in place, use a socket and re-attach the 4 bolts around the drain tube at the back of the washer. 10. From the front, insert the opposite end of the new hose to the water pump at the lower right front and screw the circle clamp tight. Note: Re-use existing clamp. 11. Rotate the top back down into normal position. 12. Plug the power back in and run a short cycle and watch for leaks. 13. If no leaks, re-attach bolts for the top with a socket. 14. Re-attach front panel with 2 screws. Done.
I went to a major appliance part outlet in my area...they told me that they didn't make the parts in the USA anymore. I found your website, ordered the parts, installed them in less than 15 minutes and now the washer works great. I would recommend your website to anyone... thank you
I initially could not figure out how to open the machine so I checked the internet for a repair manual. After getting it open I found the source of the problem. The siphon break was missing the diaphragm and was spitting water when the tub was draining. I did not know what a siphon break was or did. I am non mechanically inclined. So I sealed the top of the siphon break with a sandwich bag and a zip tie, put in a load and went to work. I now know what the siphon break does after it ran all day filling and draining for over 8 hrs. That is when I found this site, ordered the part and received it the next day as promised. It took about 10 minutes to put the part in and close the washer back up. It has been a week now and the garage is almost dry . HA , and my wife wanted a new washer ! This part and delivery was under $25. A new machine around $800 if I am lucky. The ability for me to be smug as long as she never finds out about the sandwich bag incident, PRICELESS !
I first removed the 2 screws at the bottom of the front panel. The front panel then pulls up and off. I then removed 2 hex head screws with a small socket, which kept the top attached to the two side panels. I then lifted the top and kept it propped up. I removed the internal drain hose from the siphon break on the inside of the back panel. I removed the 4 screws on the back panel that keeps the siphon break in place. I removed it and screwed in the new one. I re-attached the drain hose to the new part. I partially filled the tub and watched it drain with the lid still upright. No more leaks. The rubber seal in the siphon break had rotted.
First removed the two lower screws from the front panel. I then unscrewed two screws holding the top(lid) of washing machine. I then lifted the lid and let it rest on its rear hinges. The syphon is removed by unscrewing four screws from the rear of the washer. I then cut the original clamp holding the syphon to the hose. New syphon was installed. Enclosed hose clamp was used to tighten around hose. Syphon was then then screwed back to the rear wall of the machine. Easy fix. Water leak solved.
Read repair stories on website. Removed front & top to find leak, Ordered part. Replaced valve. Had trouble with clamp.It only caught in first slot, then broke. Had to go to hardware for one slightly larger.
The machine had leaked late last year; replacing the interior hoses fixed it, but the leak came back.To diagnose the problem, I used a short, #2 phillips screwdriver to remove the two retaining screws under the front panel indentation. I pivoted the front panel toward me, unhooked it from its retaining hangers, and set it aside. Inspection revealed that water was running down the exhaust hose from the siphon break, so I unplugged the machine, pulled it away from the wall, removed the two top retaining screws and pulled the top toward me. There was enough play in the wiring harness to leave everything connected.I used a socket wrench to loosen the hose clamp at the bottom of the siphon break, and to remove the 4 hex head screws that hold the siphon break to the back of the machine. A few twists freed the siphon break, and one glance revealed that its top was covered with soap scum. It clearly needed replacement, so I ordered the part.Replacement was a piece of cake. I mounted the gasket in the new siphon break, moistened its tube, twisted it into the hose, and tightened the clamp with a socket wrench. I then mated the new part with the old exit elbow, lined up the holes, and installed the retaining screws. I pushed the top back into position, installed the top retaining screws with a socket mounted on a universal nut driver handle, rehung the front panel, and installed the two retaining screws. Presto, good as new!Everything else is clean. I would much rather replace a few parts and continue using "Old Reliable" than pony up $800 on a new machine.
After reading partselect.com and a few other web sites, I thught the leak was either a hose clamp, hose, or syphon break.1. Two screws at the bottom front are removed, 2. Bottom front moved away from the machine unitl the top clips allow it to come off.3. Remove 2 hex head screws from the lid (look up, use a nut driver or I used a socket.4. LIft the lid from the front (similar to lifting a car hood)5. Syphon Break is in the top back right.6. 4 screws in the back and a hose clamp that connects to the pump.7. Put it all back together in reverse.I had considered replacing the hoses while I was at it, but they all looked fine. Suggest you order the Syphone Break "Kit" because it contains clamp, and ring gasket that is between the break and the discharge elbow.Works Great! Saved myself at least $150 in service call and parts markup.
I removed the two screws that held the front panel in place. Then I removed the two screws that held the top down. This allowed me to see the siphon valve when I lifted the top up. I disconnected the hose from the pump to the siphon valve by taking off the 2 clamps. Then I went to the back of the washer and moved the drain hose from the back by looseneing the clamp. Then I unscrewed the 4 screws holding the siphon valve in from the back. I took off the old valve put the new valve in and reversed the process to reinstall. It fixed the problem.
Compared part to be sure they were the same. Put ne part in place of old one, screwed back in, tightened hose, DONE. Easy and have my old reliable washer back to new.
I took the front off the machine and ran the cycle to see when it was leaking. I found it was leaking when it was draining the water out on the inside of the machine where it was going out of the machine. I took that part out off the drain hose and ordered the part no that was stamped on the part. The part came in and I reassembled everything and it did not leak.
I removed 2 screws at the bottom front corner of the washer. Then lifted the front panel upwards about 45 degrees, which allows the front panel to be removed.I then removed one small lag bolt from under each front corner (with a nut driver), which hold the top to the frame.I was now able to swing the top up to have access to the siphon break.I then removed the drain hose from the rear of the machine where it is attached to the nipple end of the siphon break, by loosening the hose clamp. Still at the rear, the nipple end of the siphon break is attached with 4 mini lag bolts, Which go through the back plate & hold the siphon break to the inside of the washer. I removed the bolts with a nut driver.The nipple end now fell away. You must save it, as the siphon break does not come with a new nipple end.from the siphon break. Maytag attaches it with an iron band, as they must think that this repair will never be done! I cut the band with the Dremel, being very careful not to cut the hose.I pulled the siphon break free from the hose.The installation is a reversal of the removal, starting with inserting the siphon break in the inner hose, clamping the hose with the supplied hose clamp.I the removed the inner drain hose
Took off front washer panel push drum to one side reached in took out four screws on back of washer removed siphon break from ebow for drain hose pulled siphon break to front of washer cut hose clamp installed new part reversed procedure to put washer together Tested operation worked fine no leaks no water on floor wife very pleased with fix Thanks again for fast delivery and great inventory of parts
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