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PartSelect Number PS2347235
This kit is used on 2-belt washers. It is recommended to change the seal kit at the same time. The tub bearing kit fixes issues with leaking, loud noise, excessive shaking/moving or if your pump is not spinning. The tub bearing kit is fastened in the middle of the outer tub of your washer. The tub bearing ensures the inner tub is spinning effortlessly. If the rub bearing is faulty it might lock up and cause the washer to stop spinning. This is an OEM part that is obtained straight from the manufacturer.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
This kit comes with a hub assembly, agitator seal, and spanner nut. If your washer leaks once it is full (with or without clothes in it) or leaks during agitation, then you should replace the seal. This part will also fix symptoms such as loud noises or the washer not agitating. The seal may become damaged or deteriorate over time and will need to be replaced. The mounting stem goes between the two tubs and seals the water into the tubs. When the water leaks, it goes into the bearing, which will cause it to also go bad, which is why you will likely change these at the same time.
* Remove front Panel* Remeove two screws that allow the top to hing up.* Loosen set screw on agitator (1/4" socket)* Remove Agitator*Loosen spanner nut from mounting seal with hammer and punch remember to loosen, turn clockwise* Remove Inner Tub* Losen Mounting stem with Hammer and Punch- Remember to loosen, turn clockwise* Remove Boot seal with hands* Remove bolts from the three brackets that attach to the outer tub* Remove Outer Tub hoses* Remove outer Tub. CAREFUL, I cut my hands on sheet metal when outer tub broke free and came up* Knock Outer tub bearing out with large block of wood* Cut bearing sleeve off of the transmission with a drimmel tool and cutting wheel. It was siezed on and would not turn off. Also, first tried to chisel , but was too difficult* Cleaned area where bearing sleeve came off with fine sandpaper* Put small amount of non-permanent thread lock on transmission (bearing area) before installing the new bearing sleeve because the sleeve is not pressed on and I did not want it to turn freely* I did not but new bolts for the outer tub 3 brackets, but noticed that they needed to be sealed. So I bought some rubber washers at hardware store* I also used some stuff called CLR to clean some rust off of the outside of the INNER tank* I replaced the O-ring on the top of the agitator shaftAlso, on the agitator shaft: To really do it right, I probably should have changed the agitator shaft because the old seal wore grooves into the shaft. I took my chances and cleaned it up with some fine metal sandpaper. I could not get the worn grooves completely smooth, but did not want to take off more material as I thought it may cause a leak. We'll see* I just used a hammer and punch to retighten the mounting stem and Spanner nut. REMEMBER COUNTER CLOCKWISE TO TIGHTEN* This was not too bad if you are somewhat mechanically inclined. I could have got a new washer, but quite frankly, I get more satisfaction from seeing the old one keep working* One last thing...and this is mostly for the younger guys cause the older guys already know it. CLEAN EVERYTHING on the washer...make it look like NEW and tell your wife how much you saved. Make sure you have the parts and tools to do the job within a timeframe that you do not have to go to the laundry mat and do not leave a big mess. This advice will definately pay off.GOOD LUCK
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I want to mention only the difficult parts.The removal of the retaining ring/nut (which is under the agitator) . After 10 + years, it was very hard to move this part and it was eventually broke it to remove it. WD40 was used but not effective (to much calicum build up). You must turn the cone shaped piece (located under the inner tub) clock wise to get it to remove. A spanner wrench was not used to remove this. I used a punch and a tack hammer. We could not remove the old tub bearing (closest to the shaft), so we just cleaned it up with emory cloth and used the new tub seal/outer bearing. Spins great but have not been able to check the water leakage problem yet.Caution: there are two dark colored ring (very thin) that go back on top of the rubber collar. These must be reused. These are hard to see. I pushed the old tub seal/bearing out with the end of a 2x4 (very slowly and carefully). I put the tub up on two of the 2x4's, for clearance off of the floor and used the third to knock the old bearing out. Old machine are very messy.
There is one good description already posted. I would add:1)If the the nut holding the inner tub doesn't loosen easily just split it with a chisel and don't waste time. 2)Don't order extra washers to remount the outer tub, they come with the bearing! 3)While disassembled I ran the spindle on spin to make sure the brake assemlby wasn't the problem. It ran quietly and smoothly. 4)The inner bearing sleeve was stuck on the spindle and didn't want to free up. I used a rotary tool to cut a groove in the old bearing sleeve then chiseled on the groove edge and it split nicely. It was very brittle. The washer seems to work well now. Next time I see a leak I am going to repair it right away!
Removed top. Removed agitator and tubs . Replaced seals and reassembled.
I followed Dan from Mason OHIO instructions.They were perfect. I have a different series washer so I did not need the washer and retaining ring. I used 2 lengths of 4x4 to support the tub when smacking the bearing with the narrow side of a 2x4 to drive it out. You hit it from the inside of the tub. When installing the new one, use the wide side of the 2x4 to drive it flush.
Disassembled the washer, found bad parts, ordered new parts, put new parts in and tested washer out side of house
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