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PartSelect Number PS2005284
This kit includes both the drive belt and the pump belt which are both "V" shaped.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I removed the 2 phillips screws on the bottom of the front panel. Then checked around to find the belts were actually below the floor panel.I pulled the washing machine away from the wall and tilted it bacwards and found the pump belt was off the pully and the drive belt was badly damaged. I replaced the 2 belts which took no tools and about 3 minutes to accomplish then resecured the front panel, pushed back in place and leveled. Complete repair from diagnosis to back in operation took less than 15 minutes.
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1: Disconnected all water and electrical connections.2: Removed front panel.3: Disconnected all wires leading from the control panel and removed the top of the washer.4: Removed the springs that holds the drum down on the damper pads.5: Flipped washer upside-down so the drum would hang from the bottom of the wash. This made it easy to clean the area since it was full of dirt and ground metal dust.6: Glued new pads (per the instructions) to the cone that protrudes up from the bottom of the washer and allowed to dry.7: Lubricated the pads with the provided grease and added additional silicon grease to insure smooth operation.8: Replaced drive belt.9: Flipped the washer back up-right and installed the drum springs.10: Reconnected all wires and attached the top of the washer.11: Reconnected all electrical and water lines and tested operation.12: Replaced the front panel.Washer now runs as quite and smooth as it did when it was new.
To see if the lid switch was the problem I first jumped it out and tried to start the washer. That was the problem. I removed the main controll so I could get to the lid switch. I made the mistake of removing the screws all the way out and the metal clip fell into the body of the washer, no problem since I was changing the drive beld anyway. I realized that you do not remove the screws all the way out, you just have to loosen them and then slide out the lid switch & then replace it.
First found out where the belts were by tipping the machine backwards and saw that the belts were intact but extremely loose. Ordered two belts (Drive and Pump) . Re-tipped the machine and in less than three minutes, had installed the new belts. I re-hooked the hoses to the back and the machine operated as if new.
I replace the belts - 5 minI tried to replace the glides...I couldn't figure out how to do that..I took out the motor and and the glide mechanism...but I could not get glide braket separate from the motor mount..so i did not do thisI replace the springs and added 1 extra sping...3 instead of 2..it worked
My washer stopped spinning, even though I could hear the motor running. I did some research and found out there was two belts, opened mine up and it was broken. I replaced the belt in five minutes, start to finish. Now it's running like new.
Found a very stretched, loose pump belt. Was able to pull it off pump pulley and motor pulley easily. Pushed motor assembly toward transmission pulley and removed wider drive belt. Wiped all pulleys clean. There's a double on the motor- one for drive belt, one for pump belt. Removed two hoses from pump using nutdriver. Removed pump. New pump installed. Installed two hoses on new pump. Installed drive new drive belt. Installed pump belt last. Slid pump to near farthest spot in slots. Tested for correct tension by pinching pump belt. Should be able to pinch center so two pump belt sides come within 1/4" of each other just as the spring tensioned motor mount starts to move. Pused washer back into place after external hoses connected. All new hose washers and filters on both hot and cold. Ran, checked for leaks - none! Absolutely perfect. Put front panel back on. No weird noises and drum empties perfectly every time. My wife is so pleased she's doing more loads.
After removing the two screws that hold the front panel in place , I could easily see the areas I needed to work in .Also , I removed the two screws securing the top panel and raised it a few inches . I saw how the damper pads were worn away . I removed the 3 dampering springs by removing the eyebolts and the base mounting nuts . After the dampering springs are removed , the washing drum can be lifted up off the bottom .Just lean the machine towards the rear and place a 4x4 lumber under the big pulley on the bottom and allow the machine to slowly come forward again resting on the lumber .I followed the instructions supplied and cleaned the excess dirt and debris away from the pad mounting areas . I applied the glue as instructed and allowed it to dry . A little dexterity was needed but the new pads easily went into position . After allowing a little more glue time ,I removed the 4x4 lumber from the bottom and lowered the machine .I installed new centering springs and tightened the eyebolts to thier original positions .I secured the top and the front panels and performed a couple test cycles . perfect , no vibration at all. like new . I replaced the two drive belts on the bottom because they had never been replaced and they definitely showed wear . Another test and I was completed in around 2 hours .
The repair was easy but didn't fix the issue . The transmission was the problem washing machine would no longer agitate
removed face of washer and replaced belts. The only problem I had was didn't own any torx security drivers.
The job went fast an well
My washer filled up and wouldn't drain at all.I tried checking the fuses, then read that the belt could be broken or worn. I checked under the hood and the belt was broken right in two. I drained the washer manually then ordered the new belt.I was able to replace the belt in no time with no effort at all.
Tilted the machine back on a 45 degree angle while a friend held it tilted I grabbed the pump belt and removed it and then removed the main drive belt by turning it and derailing it off track . but the new belts on using a reverse technique by rerailing the new belts on to the pulleys. pushing the main motor away from the spring tension made it easier . very simple staight forward job. similiar to putting a chain on a bicycle!
First I unplugged the AC cord. then removed the back panel using a 6 in 1 screwdriver .(not the most professonal tool made but truly a must to keep in the kitchen draw).Then I removed the timer knob with a little help from common sence I am sure every timer knob has it's own way to come off. Then with the 6 in 1 I had used the nut driver to unseet the timer . Oh yea I had unpluged the electrical conections prior removing the timer.The new timer went in just as easy as the old one came out.
removed old pully, put new one on with hex driver, removed belts, put new belts on and finished.
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