Models > GSS20IEPJWW > Instructions

GSS20IEPJWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for GSS20IEPJWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the GSS20IEPJWW
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frige not cooling, freezer working, frost buildup. also door for ice dispenser stuck open!

  • Customer: stan from winder GA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 55 of 62 people found this instruction helpful
first I removed shelves, bottom drawer, one drawer slide. then removed plastic cover from inside, light bulb, removed two screws from back panel (inside refrigerator, removed panel. You will see heater towards bottom. Remove screws (2) that hold heater in place, disconnect wires from heater, thermostat is
attached to line just above where heater is attached.
You will find that is quicker to cut thermostat wire, then splice together with wire nut. reassemble in reverse order. To check ice door, you must remove inner door panel, mine had to selenoid rusted and locked up. Removed , cleaned, reinstalledm worked ok. Hope this helps someone. Thank you partselect from your good service!

Ice dispenser quit working and kept making a clicking sound

  • Customer: Ken from Gibson City IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 54 of 60 people found this instruction helpful
All you have to do is replace the circuit board which is really easy. Still kinda mad because the fridge is less than 2 years old. If you hear the clicking noise its coming from the circuit board.

Refrigerator stopped freezing and cooling frige

  • Customer: DAVID R. from BATH NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 49 of 54 people found this instruction helpful
Well, I first had a local service guy look at the frige. only to find out his opinion was to replace the entire unit, because the Mother board cost more than the unit was worth. Me not accepting that answer, decided to look on line for a part and availability as well as price. Surprise, Part Select had what I wanted. Now, on the back of the unit in the upper left hand corner is the access door for the mother board.Find it, but before proceeding disconnect the power supply from the wall receptacle. Remove the surrounding screws on the access door with a nut driver and the correct size METRIC socket. Disconnect the wiring connectors on both sides of the board. Now there are 4 plastic type (mine were white) retaining studs holding the board in place. BE CAREFUL not to break these as you gently pull the board off studs. Replace board with new one, and restore wire connectors in their perspective places. Each connector has a different amount of pins inside so connecting them is easy. I know nothing about refrigeration, and this was a piece of cake. Less than 15 min. Unit cools like never before!!!

refrigerator was getting too cold

  • Customer: Larry from Menomonie WI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 53 of 66 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the old temperature sensor by cutting the wires. I attached the wires of the new sensor with wire nuts and mounted it in the same bracket.

Our refrigerator stops delivering ice both crushed and cube. The ice bin was full. I first thought the delivery motor was bad and then the water dispenser in the door stopped delivery. Decided at that point it was either the door panel swith board, cable or the main circuit board on the back of t

  • Customer: david from colleyville TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 47 of 53 people found this instruction helpful
After further diagnosis decided the main circuit board was the likely culprit. Ordered a new one from PartSelect. It came in 2 days and took less than 30 minutes to install. Unplugged the refrig. Removed the old board cover with a nut driver. Removed the wiring cables (note their location on the board) and also there were a couple of cable plugs on my refrig that were not not hooked to anything on the board. Snapped the old board out and the new board in. Reinstalled the cables and then the board cover. Plugged the refrig in and back in business. PartSelect is a great website! The speed of delivery and available information just saved me $500 to $600 from a appliance repair shop.

freezer defrost and then after some time would work.

  • Customer: anthony from burke VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 44 of 46 people found this instruction helpful
one repair man said I needed freon. sears repair man said my evaporators leaked. and should buy a new fridge. I installed the parts for less than $30.
dried the freezer compartment removed back panel and asst parts. removed screws from evaporator assy and replaced def therm. soldered leads/wing nuts. removed cover from sensor temp and again connected leads. working fine.

refrigerator/freezer defrosting completely for no reason

  • Customer: John from Yucca Valley CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 44 of 46 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged refrigerator and used a screwdriver to remove access panel on rear of refrigerator to expose "mother board". Unplugged connectors (6 total) and using needle nose pliers released two retainers to remove mother board. Installed new mother board snapping it onto the two retainers and plugged the connectors onto the new mother board. Plugged refrigerator into outlet, refrigerator came back on, automatically reset it's temperature settings and has been working fine since. Total time, less than 15 minutes. Money saved, hundreds of dollars!

Ice jamming up in the ice maker unit because auger was broken

  • Customer: Elaine from Healdsburg CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 42 of 45 people found this instruction helpful
Remove Ice maker bin from the refrigerator and empty. Unscrew the three Phillips head screws that secure the front plate to the bin and gently lift and pull the tab that secures the interior portion of the plate until it clears the bin. Once you remove the front plate, it will expose two side tabs on the front of the bin which must be depressed so that the plastic insert that hold the auger in place can be removed. Isolate the auger with the from the unit by rotating the parts off the shaft. The ice crushing blades are attached to the auger and can easily be removed by twisting the plastic nut off with pliers. The cutting blades will now slip off the end (make sure you study the orientation of the blades as each piece will come off separately and make the job unpleasant when you go to put it back together). Now that the auger is out, just reverse the process and you have a "new" ice dispenser. Works like a charm. The diagram furnished by PartSelect was very helpful and accurate if you get a bit lost, especially when putting the crushing blades back together.

ice stalactites were drooling out of the icemaker and gumming up the cubes in the receiving tray.

  • Customer: Gerald from Benicia CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 40 of 42 people found this instruction helpful
I first shut off water flow to the fridge. Examination of the package (which was not exact in appearance to the original) demonstrated that the electrical connectors were well-insulated so I arrogantly and successfully proceded without disconnecting the power. My fridge is old enough that the model doesn't appear exactly on anyone's list so I wasn't alarmed that it took an extra 10 minutes or so to noodle out how to adapt the slightly different inlet cowling and electrical cord with extension, but the device is pretty simple.
Soon I loosened the two mounting screws with a nut driver, used a screwdriver to pry away the plastic snap-in housing over the electrical socket on the fridge inner wall and pulled away the electrical plug. The original water fill tube remained in its cavity, ready for re-use.
The new unit's mounting points matched the original screw locations perfectly, as did the fill cowling - which on the replacement icemaker has two possible attachment points. The new unit's electrical connector required an extension pigtail to adapt to my socket, but it was included in the package. The extra cable posed a minor cosmetic issue because it hangs in the collection basket a bit, but that will soon be remedied with a tie wrap.
After the water was restored and an anxious wait of a few hours, we had well-formed ice cubes that weren't all stuck together and the stalactites haven't reappeared.

Clicking noice from the motherboard

  • Customer: John from Greer SC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 39 of 40 people found this instruction helpful
After advise from the expert, he was adamant the motherboard was the (via symptoms)problem. After receiving the replacement board (via FEDEX), I followed the easy to understand instructions. I did number the electrical plugs and mapped the connections on paper. The key to the rapid fix was to carefully read all of the instructions to verify which (if any) wires needed elimination, which in my case was none. I will definitely use this service in the future as the expense was affordable and after research, I estimate a savings between 55% to 60%.

Water valve was leaking by and overfilling icemaker tray

  • Customer: Guy from Homestead FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 41 of 47 people found this instruction helpful
Turned off the water supply valve to the refrigerator. Removed the rear access panel (6 screws) and the one screw mounting the water valve. Slid the water valve out and disconnected the two electrical plugs and two outlet tubes (slip/lock fit) and the inlet supply (ferrel nut). Connected the three tubes to the new valve, the two power plugs, slid valve back in place and reinstalled the mounting screw. Turned on the water supply valve back on and checked for leaks - none. Reinstalled the rear access panel and tightened all screws.
Checked the icemaker and cleaned the input tube and tray, ensured all were properly mounted and aligned. Restarted icemaker and and checked the operation periodically over the next day. All worked properly.

Sticking Light Switch

  • Customer: Jonathan from Lilburn GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 39 of 43 people found this instruction helpful
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the catch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.

Refrigerator had a blown Overload PTC

  • Customer: Paul from Stillwater MN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 40 of 52 people found this instruction helpful
I indered the right part. The hardest aspect of the repair was finding any information about what wire to attach where. There is one orange and one black wire that goes into the PTC from the fridge.
After speaking with an appliance expert at a local appliance store (not where I bought the part) they helped me out.
Next time, I would just pay the extra money to buy the part from a local store because Parts Select had absolutely zero information about which wire went where.
So, all things ended well. FYI Overload PTC units have two wires that come from the refrigerator, but it does not matter which wire connects with either of the two connection points on the PTC. It took me hours of research to find that out. The Overload PTC connects to the frig with a 3 prong connection. That part is very simple.

Drawer slide broke due to overloading with beer.

  • Customer: Ashley from Brandon MS
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 34 of 35 people found this instruction helpful
First I took a beer out and opened it then took a sip. Then I went into my garage and searched for my Black and Decker power drill with a phililps head on it. Failure to locate a phillips head bit i took another sip of beer and took out one of those old fashion screw drivers. I went back into the kitchen and much to my dismay the fridge didnt fix itself. After another sip of beer I took the old slide out and took it to the outside garbage. On my way around the house my neighbor started to mock my home fix-it skills and his back yard became the new home for the broken slide. I put the new slide in, reinstalled the drawer, and filled it with beer.

Fridge smelled like something electronic was burning

  • Customer: BENJAMIN from LAKESIDE CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 33 of 36 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the back cover of the fridge with it still pluged in. The next time the compressor tried to kick on, a small piece of black plastic next to the black tank caught fire, and then went out. I unpluged the fridge, unpluged the two wires feeding the black box. Then the box unpluged from the tank. I searched on the internet for the part using the model #. It ended up being a overload/ptc or relay. There was a smaller black box attached with I think is some sort of an overload. I unplugged the overload and it plugged right into the new relay I had overnighted. Although the new relay was white (not black) and the plug attachments were in different locations, it work great.
All Instructions for the GSS20IEPJWW
16-30 of 1,544