1017716-1-S-GE-WR50X10068        -Defrost Thermostat
1017716-1-S-GE-WR50X10068        -Defrost Thermostat 1017716-2-S-GE-WR50X10068        -Defrost Thermostat

Defrost Thermostat

PartSelect Number PS1017716

This part acts as a safety device against over heating in case of mechanical failure.

This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Fridge section too warm.
  • Freezer section too warm.
  • Freezer not defrosting.
  • Freezer section too cold.
  • Frost buildup.
  • Fridge section too cold.
  • Refrigerator runs too long.
  • Too warm.
  • Ice maker will not make ice.
  • Water dispenser will not dispense water.
  • Compare At

    $11.58
  • You Save

    $1.93
  • Your Price

    $9.65
In Stock
Fast Shipping Get this part fast. Average delivery time via regular ground: 1.8 days.

Videos For installing this part.

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.4 / 5.0, 87 reviews What's this?
1-15 of 87
 

280 of 302 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyReally easy

Time to do repair:1- 2 hours

ToolsNutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers

CustomerGreg from Aledo TX

Ice box and freezer would not get cold,the back wall of the freezer was covered with ice

1. I had to defrost the ice off of the back wall of the freezer with a blowdryer.
2. Removed the four 1/4'' screws and removed the back panel.
3. Defrosted all of the ice off the coils and heater.
4. I replaced the defrost thermostat and heater by following the directions that came with them. The directions are very clear and easy to follow. I had a single element heater, and the replacement was a double element, the directions even explained how to rearrange the wires to make it work. The whole job only really consisted of cutting two wires that are color coded on the thermostat and resplicing the new ones in. I used scotch locks and electrical tape for the splices. The element had connectors on it so I just removed two screws, unplugged two wires and plugged them on the new one.
The greatest thing about this repair was that I troubleshot the problem using the PartSelect website, ordered the parts and they arrived at my house in less than 24 hours.
Thank You.

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108 of 120 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:15 - 30 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers

CustomerMike from Scottsdale AZ

Freezer wouldn't maintain temperature ... got warm.

The freezer in my side-by-side kept warming up -- often 20 degrees or more, which of course caused the fresh food side to warm up also. I do a lot of jump-in-with-both-feet home repairs, but never on a large appliance. Not having an ohmmeter, which cost about $100 for a reliable one, I took the symptoms to the internet. Countless self-help sites and U-Tube videos later, I was positive it was one of two possible problems, either the defrost thermostat was broken and the defroster wasn't coming out of its cycle or the temperature sensor wasn't reading the correct temp and thus kicking in the fan motor when needed. Fortunately I found both parts easily on PartSelect.com and the total cost for both, including shipping, was $30, less than 1/3 of the cost of an ohmmeter. Not knowing for sure which part it was that was bad, I ordered both, figuring, since I had to pull out the panel anyway, I might just as well replace them both ... the price was right. (In retrospect I should have order 4 Temperature Sensors as my fridge has two in both the freezer side and the Fresh Food side. Any one of them being bad could have caused the same problem. Fortunately, I was lucky because it was either ONLY the Defrost Thermostat or I just happened to pick the right Sensor, but the repair worked.)

The repair was easy: Unplug the power. A Nut Driver removed the four screws holding on the panel in the back of the freezer. A screw driver removes the one screw holding the lamp cover in place. Remove the light bulbs, pull off the panel and right above the freezer coils you'll see both parts -- plain as day. (If your coils are clogged with ice, you will probably need de-ice first.) Cut the wires to both parts as close to the parts as you can to leave as much wire exposed as possible. Strip the ends of all four wires about 1/2 inch and also on the new parts. Match up the wires in the fridge to the wires on the parts and twist the ends together (Note: both wires on the Sensor are white so they match up either way, but the two wire on the thermostat will need to match up orange to orange and pink to pink.) I used silicone filled wire nuts, which you can buy at any hardware store or use your own wing nuts and fill them with silicone or shoe goo which works just as well ... anything to keep the moisture out and prevent the wires ends from corroding. Tuck the wires up and replace the panel, light bulbs and light cover That's it. Very easy. By far the hardest part was wedging my wide body into the narrow freezer compartment. Some one-handed work added a little extra time to the project.

In my case the freezer fan didn't kick in for about twenty minutes after I plugged it back in, but I assume that it either begins in the defrost mode or it takes that long for it to reset itself ... either way the repair worked great.

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105 of 170 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:1- 2 hours

ToolsNutdriver

Customerjoseph from mastic NY

Vegetables freezing in fridge, freezer getting warm, always running

1st symptom, water dispenser not working.
2nd symptom, carrots freezing in fridge lower drawer.
3rd symptom, 3 days later, freezer getting warmer and warmer, fan always running, back of inside wall of freezer building up with ice.
Originally changed water valve for dispenser thinking it was the only problem.
After noticing the freezer getting warmer and doing some reading, I decided the best guesstimate would be the defrost thermostat or heater behind the inside freezer wall. Defrosting all that ice to get behind the wall is the time consuming part of this job. Not wishing to defrost and troubleshoot to determine which component failed, they are cheap enough to just buy both the heater and t-stat and replace both and be done with it. It turned out to be the heater, an element encased in glass, the glass turns black on the ends when it is toasted. This is a very easy fix. If you do not have crimpers for the butt connectors for the 2 wires for the t-stat, you can use a wire nut to twist them together and seal it with silicone/rtv. The heater just plugs in on both ends. Remember it is glass and very delicate, take your time. Start to finish this could be a 3 hour job, but most of that time is melting the ice, cleaning up and putting everything back in the freezer.

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54 of 61 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyA Bit Difficult

Time to do repair:1- 2 hours

ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers

Customerstan from winder GA

Frige not cooling, freezer working, frost buildup. Also door for ice dispenser stuck open!

first I removed shelves, bottom drawer, one drawer slide. then removed plastic cover from inside, light bulb, removed two screws from back panel (inside refrigerator, removed panel. You will see heater towards bottom. Remove screws (2) that hold heater in place, disconnect wires from heater, thermostat is
attached to line just above where heater is attached.
You will find that is quicker to cut thermostat wire, then splice together with wire nut. reassemble in reverse order. To check ice door, you must remove inner door panel, mine had to selenoid rusted and locked up. Removed , cleaned, reinstalledm worked ok. Hope this helps someone. Thank you partselect from your good service!

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40 of 42 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyA Bit Difficult

Time to do repair:1- 2 hours

ToolsNutdriver, Pliers

Customeranthony from burke VA

Freezer defrost and then after some time would work.

one repair man said I needed freon. sears repair man said my evaporators leaked. and should buy a new fridge. I installed the parts for less than $30.
dried the freezer compartment removed back panel and asst parts. removed screws from evaporator assy and replaced def therm. soldered leads/wing nuts. removed cover from sensor temp and again connected leads. working fine.

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29 of 31 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:1- 2 hours

ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers

CustomerErik from Chardon OH

Fridge and freezer would no longer cool (coils iced over)

First I posted the symptoms on appliance repair forum. Within a very short amount of time, an expert responded with suggestions (that ended up being right on!) and links to How-to articles, diagrams, and the correct parts catalog. They diagnosed it as a failed defrost heater or a bad defrost thermostat that caused the heater to go bad.

I removed all the food from the freezer, removed the shelving and ice maker tray, then removed the back panel (nut driver). The coils were severely iced over. I let the coils defrost (didn't take long in the summer heat). The water from the melted ice completely saturated about two full size bath towels. DO NOT let the coils drain into the normal drain hole. Then I removed the defrost heater (2 screws) and the glass element was dark and cloudy like a burnt-out light bulb.

I placed my order on Parts Select with normal priority shipping. The defrost thermostat was listed as in-stock and the defrost heater was listed as "on order". Both parts arrived 4 days later. The thermostat was a genuine GE part and the heater was a universal aftermarket. My original was a single element heater and the replacement was dual element. The wiring was slightly different, but they included instructions on how to wire up the dual element. The heater wires had to be re-routed and extended (wire cutting, stripping, and crimping are required). The extra length of wire and the wire crimp connector were included with the replacement heater. I also (per the instructions) sealed the crimp connector with RTV sealant. After completing the wiring, I re-attached the heater using the 2 factory screws. Then I had to cut the thermostat wires and splice in using wire nuts (not included) and RTV to seal the connection (not included).

Then I re-attached the back panel using the factory screws and attached the grounding clamp. I installed the shelves and ice maker tray and started the unit. It has been running fine for two weeks now.

The overall repair experience was fantastic. This fridge is only 3 years old and has broken twice in the last year costing me over $500 in food (total for both failures). I also bought a chest freezer last year when the fridge failed the first time. That minimized my frozen food loss this year. The failure last summer was the controller board. I paid the GE technician to come out and fix that because I did not know about this website. I am an engineer and I much prefer the DIY approach, especially when they make it so easy on this website to diagnose and get the right parts.

My only complaints (and they are so minor that complaint might be too harsh of a word) are:
The repair was easy, but would have been significantly easier if they had supplied a direct replacement single element heater.
I wish they would have included the RTV sealant in the repair kit. I happened to have it, but I have to imagine that not everybody will and they won't know that they need it until they read the instructions.
The replacement dual element heater was slightly wider and thus a slightly tighter fit than the original equipment.
Lastly (and this really is no big deal). I got my "Order Shipped" e-mail 6 days after the parts had arrived.

Overall 2 thumbs up!

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28 of 33 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsNutdriver

CustomerTerrence from Escalon CA

Ice maker failure due to chunks of ice building up in tray

My problem began with having to replace the auger due to damage (broken blade). Unknown at that time the unit was having a defrost cycle issue. Once auger was repaired, then the motor to auger failed. Once repaired the GE unit then began shutting down without warning. Mother board replaced. All was fine for two weeks then noticed odd performance by ice-maker (chunks of Ice again)and frozen package containers showing signs of dampness and then refreezing. Read through the Parts Select web site to see what other users may have had gone wrong with their GE's and what the parts overview section may reveal for me. Found that the defrost thermo and temp-sensor controlled defrost functions. The parts were cheap, $20.00 for the pair so I replaced them both since they are both located next to one another in the freezer compartment. The repair video furnished on the P/S web was great and very accurate. The entire job only took about an hour. The repair video indicated using wire-nuts and electircal tape Instead, I chose to solder the wires and use shrink-tubing to provide the moisture barrier. PartSelect folks are great not only for their parts pricing but also for the informative videos. The GE works better than ever

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25 of 30 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyReally easy

Time to do repair:1- 2 hours

ToolsScrew drivers, Socket set

Customerjames from san diego CA

Little or no cooling in refrigerator, compressor on 24hrs.

First, removed shelves and items in freezer.
Then, removed back panel using socket set and philips screwdriver which exposed iced over coils, then defrosted coils using hair dryer set on hot-high. This was the most time consuming part of repair-30 minutes. removed heater and bra's 2 screws and pulled electrical leads from both ends. Reconnected the two leads to new heater and bra, then reattached using 2 screws back onto coil frame. Cut thermostats 2 lead wires-one pink the other orange, reconnected leads from new thermostat with wire nuts, applied silicone to protect connections, then reattached onto coil frame. reattached back panel using socket set and philips screwdriver to re-attach bolts and philips screws, then cleaned any remaining water from the defrosting with dry towel. Attached freezer shelves, items and plugged in refrigerator freezer. Appliance works like it's brand new again.

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21 of 23 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Pliers, Wrench(Adjustable)

CustomerMichael from American Fork UT

Freezer compartment would freeze sold so the fridge would go warm.

Emptied the fridge and freezer. Unplugged it and in so do doing defrosted the freezer coils. Replace the listed parts, for they were right there easy to get at and replace. Between the three of them we had an 80% chance of getting what was wrong. The freezer and the refridgerator are both working just fine. No more warm milk.

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17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers

CustomerMichael from Cincinnati OH

Refrigerator and freezer compartments were not getting cold enough. Frost was building up on the back of the freezer compartment.

Tried manually defrosting several times and the unit would work for a couple of weeks and then get frosted over again.
Using this web site I easily found and identified the parts I needed. I ordered both the heating element and the heater thermostat (If I am going to take apart the unit I only want to do it once). Both parts arrived very quickly and were exact replacements for the parts in the unit.
I removed the ice maker by loosening two screws and unplugging the cable. The top part with the light came down by removing two screws. The vent at the back slid up and was removed. The back panel was removed by removing two screws. I could now access the evaporator coil.
The evaporator coil was removed by removing two screws. The old heater element was on the bottom of the evaporator coil and the heater thermostat was on the upper right of the coil.
I disconnected the wire at each end of the heater element. I removed the retaining clip at the bottom center of the coil. The heater element was removed by bending a tab at each end of the element and then sliding it down.
I unclipped the thermostat from the coil and snaked the wires around the coil to the front so I could work on them easier. I cut the thermostat wires, stripped the ends, connected the new thermostat matching the wire colors, soldered both connections and sealed with some liquid electrical tape. I then snaked the wires behind the coil and snapped the thermostat onto the coil.
The heating element slid up into the bottom of the coil and I bent the tabs back into place and reinstalled the retaining clip. I reconnected the wires to the element.
Putting everything back together was a few more minutes.
Total repair time was about 4 hours from starting to empty the freezer to when I turned the unit back on. By far the longest activity was defrosting. The actual repair itself was about half an hour. Emptying, defrosting and cleaning up were the other 3 and a half hours.

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21 of 34 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyReally easy

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsPliers, Screw drivers

CustomerGerry from Hamilton NJ

Freezer stopped working

Came home in the morning and found that everything in the freezer was defrosted. The fridge and freezer were warm so I checked the web to see what the problem could be. After about 15 minutes I found what the two causes could be. Since the parts were so cheap, I decided to change both the defrost heater and thermastat. It's been about a week since I changed the parts and no problem.

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14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyReally easy

Time to do repair:15 - 30 mins

ToolsSocket set

CustomerJames from LaGrange KY

Refrigerator wasn't cooling

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires, it was really simple. I conected the new element & defrost themostat (instuctions were included with the parts). I replaced the cover pluged the fridge in everything was woking fine. I placed a themometer in the fridge & have been watching it for 2+ weeks now it is working fine. To anyone who is looking to do this repair, on thier own, I reccomend it. It was very simple & required little to no skill. No reasopn to throw away money to call a repair man.

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15 of 21 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers

CustomerWilliam from Garden City MI

Warm refrigerator, no door water

Remove the following: lower rails, evap cover, ice maker assembly, attaching hardware for light and evap fan. Follow directions for replacing defrost heater. cut and splice wires for new defrost thermostat, and temperature sensor using adhesive line shrink tube. reassemble. Work like new.

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11 of 11 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyA Bit Difficult

Time to do repair:30 - 60 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers

CustomerJames from Au Sable Forks NY

Freezer and refrigerator both warm, frost buildup on freezer coil cover

De-iced cover and removed two phillips head screws and two 1/4 " nutdriver screws to expose coil, defrost heater and defrost thermostat. Deiced the coil and surrounding area with a heat gun. Removed two screws that hold the defrost heater in place, disconnected the wires to the original heater. The original assy. was a single quartz and the new one was a double quartz. This required rerouting the left wire along with the right one, but was no problem as the wire was plenty long enough. Re-installed the assy. with the two screws. I replaced the defrost termination thermostat, even though it tested good, because I have had experience in that it would be the next to go, and not to in-convenience the owner in unloading the fridge a second time. The only difficult part was fitting into the freezer compartment. As usual, order by 3p.m. and shipping is the same day and is a real joy to use Partselect.com

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11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used

Level of DifficultyEasy

Time to do repair:15 - 30 mins

ToolsNutdriver, Screw drivers

CustomerAaron from Walnut Ridge AR

Wouldn't defrost

Unplugged refrigerator, removed cover, defrosted with heat gun, replaced Defrost Thermostat, and replaced single element with double element Defrost Heater. All went very well with minimal difficulty, and instructions that accompanied parts along with the instructional video on your site, made the repair quite easy. The repair is going on the 4th week now, and no freeze up yet.

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