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hub corroded away and left spin basket sitting on bottom of tub.
Biggest problem was getting old hub nut off. I had to remove it in pieces because it was corroded so bad.
Once hub nut was off it was a breeze to replace the parts after cleaning off the threads and shaft.
Reassembled in reverse order.. and ran.
I have to give accolades to PartSelect.. their customer service is second to none. i ordered the parts just before the Christmas holiday and they shipped them to my door in under 24 hours at no extra charge to see that I got them on time... THANKS!.. It sure helped.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Excessive agitator side movement
Bought all of the parts to remedy this. It ended up being the top transmission seal/bearing which is not a replaceable part. I could see the shaft moving side to side. But the parts diagrams are not detailed enough to show that when assembled.
She led a good life.
My new side loader is SO MUCH BETTER AND INSANELY EFFICIENT. I highly recommend making the change if you need a transmission..
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
17 of 22 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Inner tub base hub disintegrated
I had to take the washer outside since there was no room to work on it in the laundry room. The extra space allowed me to spread out the parts, use the garden hose to clean and have light enough to take digital pics of the wiring before I disconnected them to remove the upper panel.
Removing the upper retaining ring for the tub was simple with only 4 screws. The agitator pulled right up and out. The nut cover/agitator anchor removed easily with one bolt.
The tough part was the inner tub base hub nut that I could not get off. Another user had commented on how they had to chisel the nut off and that was the best advice. I used my air chisel on either side of the nut and it was pretty quick to get off - within 3 min. If I hadn't read that I wouldn't have ordered another nut to replace the one I chiseled off.
The diagrams and repair stories really made the difference. Cleaning and reassembling was done within about an hour - cleaning the 11 years of soap scum at least an hour total before and after replacing the parts.
Unplug electricity, unscrew 3 bolts with nutdriver from rear of top panel, expose triple valve, remove 2 screws from existing valve, turn water off & remove hose from triple valve, remove outlet hose attached to the valve,install new valve with 2 screws & replace outlet hose, attach hot/cold hoses, replace top part of washer with the 3 screws,plug in electricity & turn on the hot & cold water, that's it.
My husband was unavailable and already overloaded, so I took a screw driver and removed the front cover of the washer. After I discovered where the leak was coming from, I used a screw driver to remove one end of the hose and pliers to remove the other end. I went online, found the part and ordered it. It came in surprisingly fast. My husband put it back in about 5 minutes.
took it appart and found that the suspension rod was broken. went on line an ordered the parts. The parts arrived 3 days later. Installed the parts and the washing machine was working within a half hour.
After reading how others have done this and how easy it was, I decided to give it a try. And, sure enough, it was really easy. However, one concern I had was on lifting the old agitator off from the axle using both hands. I didn't want to have the agitator come crashing into my face as I pulled up. So I put a pillow on top of the agitator.
at the bottom of the tub their is a mettal peace witch holds the tub to the transmision witch is made of zink(aka junk metal or zink+tin)witch broke stoping tub from sping the clotes dry so atfer odering the new part and nut.. and finding out that it is a LEFTHAND nut made of alumanum taking a small drill bit 1/8" and drilling the nut to weakin it making it brake able then cleaning the treds up the new part fit right in the tufest part was hold the trans still to get the nut on tightenuf to hold the tub
Noticed 3 straps were broken when we replaced the hose
I removed the front cover, then unscrewed the top to expose the top. There are two screws that hold each strap, which turns out are different sizes, so I had to use two different sockets. I also had to remove the hose & plastic tube for the bleach. Once that was done, the replacement was easy, I replaced all 4 straps, reconnected the tube for the bleach, screwed the top back on and snapped the front cover into place. This took maybe 30 minutes - and I am female!
Tipped washer over on to the front side. Removed back panel. Removed the flex coupling to the water pump. Removed the old belt. Installed the new belt and reversed the process to put components back together.
removed front cover the agitater then cover over large nut then large nut then inner tub then split ring and tub bearing then disconnected the hardware around the outer tub then replaced transmission then put back together in reverse order.
The grooves on the bottom of the control knob were worn away. I just pushed the timer knob clip off of the underside of the knob, removed it from the washer and put the new knob on and put the clip back on. It was a piece of cake!
After realizing I had purchased a used washing machine without a drain hose I thought I would never find one, but then I found partselect.com. After easily locating the part on the web site from the detailed diagrams and model number I then ordered it. Receiving the part quickly I used a socket to remove the plastic connector that prevents the hose from disconnecting once the washer is turned on. I fed the hose through the plastic connector and into the drain hole without any issues. I then used my one small socket to secruely fasten it back together. There was no additional tools or items needed to successfully attach the washer drain hose.