271511-1-S-GE-WH2X1199          -Hub Washer
271511-1-S-GE-WH2X1199          -Hub Washer 271511-2-S-GE-WH2X1199          -Hub Washer http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/GE/00110774i03.gif

Hub Washer

PartSelect Number PS271511

This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Leaking.
  • Noisy.
  • Pumps but will not spin.
  • Shakes and moves.
  • Compare At

    $4.22
  • You Save

    $.70
  • Your Price

    $3.52
In Stock
Order within the next 11 hrs and your part ships today!
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Videos For installing this part.

Related Parts Additional or alternate parts to consider.

Part PhotoPart DescriptionPriceAvailability

Split Ring

Part Number 1766022

This split ring is two inches in diameter.

Order within the next 11 hrs and your part ships today!
$4.29
In Stock

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 2.2 / 5.0, 12 reviews What's this?
1-5 of 12
 

152 of 183 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: More than 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Wayne from Saint Augustine, FL

Tub seal leaked, rusted the transmission bearing which locked up

I followed the instructions in the GE Consumer Service Training Technician Manual Pub. No. 31-10008.

I also power washed the basket and tub before reassembly.

The tub seal comes with the transmission and brake assembly so it's not necessary to order another seal.

The agitator coupling kit contains a redesigned coupler and longer screw with new o-ring.

I bought the hub nut, split ring, tub bearing, agitator coupling kit and washer hub because these are all the parts that go on the transmission shaft. I felt it was best to spend a few dollars more to replace every part involved with the spin and agitation of the washer.

I used the channel lock and a hammer with a shortened handle to remove and replace the hub nut. Use caution as the nut is aluminum.

The entire job took 5 hours.

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74 of 93 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: More than 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Joe from Lucedale, MS

The hub under the spinner basket broken/ deteriorated

Removed front cover, Control panel, top Cover, slasher unit, all very smiple stuff. the hub was broken and the spinner basket came right out. One half Hub attached to Spinner, Other half attached to Hub drive shaft. removing the Hub nut was the hard part. tried impack & socket, No luck. in removal. Had to usr Hammer & Chisel and bust Old Alum. Nut off. Clean up and replace parts. OK. Had to remove water pump and clear debree that went in pump when spinner Hub broke off . the spinner also bursted a crack in the outer poly tube when it cam apart.. Sanded the dmage area and Patched with a good coat of JB Weld. machine is working Like new. The parts all worked Great. the break down Chart was a great Help to get the right parts needed. Thanks

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44 of 67 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Customer: Michael from West Babylon, NY

Tub would not spin / motor was smoking

the hardest part was getting the hub nut off. You have no room for a big wrench, I ended up chiseling it off.once I got it a part I saw the transmission was leaking oil, I checked every thing else, every thing seemed fine. I read on this web site that a common failure was the hub, mine was not in the best of shape so I replaced it while I was in there.replaced tub bearing,washer hub, hub nut , retaining clip for clutch,ring split, transmission and tub bearing 1/2 and $250.00 later the machine works like new.The diagrams that give you the part numbers were very helpful in the reassembly.

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25 of 29 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Very Difficult
Time to do repair: More than 2 hours
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Customer: Michael from Allentown, PA

Bearing above brake plate on transmission unit failed, brske material broken up

First I removed the agitator. The shoulder screw on top of the air bell was almost disintegrated, but after soaking with penetrating oil and a large channel lock pliers I removed the shoulder screw. Next, the air bell required a bearing puller to remove it from the agitator shaft (with force application to the agitator shaft from above). After two days of soaking with penetrating oil, heating with a hot air gun, and countless attempts with a pipe wrench and sledge hammer the 1 11/16 nut was not moving. I drilled down along the flats of the shaft and dug out as much corrosion as I could and filled the cavities with penetrating oil. Next, I drilled down at an angle (so as not to gouge the centering taper of the spinner hub) into the nut in order to relieve some stress - no success. I ended up using a chissel ( blade and flat round ) to break pieces of the nut away which was quite brittle. After removing about 1/8 of the nut's top and tapered portion, it began to turn out with a pipe wrench. Next, the spinner would not lift out off the shaft, so I had to remove the entire tub and transmission assembly (but with the spinner basket attached) as instructed by the paper stored within the control panel. I removed the tub support bracket and motor assembly and the pulley off the transmission (pieces of the brake pad fell out). Using a 2X6 piece of lumber, I fabricated 2 semi circular pieces to fit within the 20 inch diameter of the spinner basket and secured their position with another piece of wood. I attached eye hooks to the wood and with rope,hung the entire assembly over an I beam with the transmission in the 5 gallon bucket and the tub suspended only about an inch above the bucket. I hammered on the agitator shaft until the tub and transmission fell the inch as it separated from the spinner basket. After this, it was just cleaning the areas receiving new parts. I did use a sealant around the new tub seal edges and bottom when assembling. Other than having to tap 1/4- 20 threads in the new transmission brake flange (new part had no threads in the holes) the reassembly went fine. I did have to retighten the new 1 11/16 nut after the first use because the new brake pad really stopped the basket from spinning, but the momentom loosened the nut after 3 loads of wash.

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23 of 26 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Customer: Dave from Willcox, AZ

Water leakage from the bottom of the tub through the shaft seal

Thanks to comments already summited to Partselect I was prepareed for the worst. Once I figured out that you remove the agitator assembly with a swift jerk I was able to access the lower portion of the tub. As others have found out the aluminum nut holding the inner tub can not be removed without a hammer and chisel. Once you get past that things go well. What is left is cleaning the components and re-assembling.

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1-5 of 12