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PartSelect Number PS270803
This V-shaped drive belt is 29 1/2 inches long x 1/2-inch-wide, and fits both front-load and top-load washing machines. When belts are worn or frayed, they are known to make noise. If you have a top-load washer, a drive belt may be connecting the transmission to the drive motor. It would generally be a rubber V-belt covered in fabric to allow free movement. Or it could be a rubber belt aided by a tensioning device like an idler pulley, to stop the motor from causing too much friction to the belt. For front-loaders, the drive belt goes between the drive motor and the wash basket. If your drive belt is worn or frayed, it should be replaced straight away. After replacing the drive belt, run a wash cycle to ensure the belt is correctly fitted.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Used the spatula to release the front panel (push flat spatula under top about 2 inches from either side to release the two sprng clips holding the front panel on) to expose the tub and motor assembly. Inspected the belt and it seemed worn and a lot of rubber particles were in base of machine. Ordered the belt from partselect - received it two days later. Loosened 4 motor mount nuts. Removed old belt and replaced. Tightened belt and tightened nuts on motor. Only tricky part is you will need extensions for socket drive because belt is in the way for two of the motor mount nuts. I used a 1/4" small socket wrench, with an extension. No expertise needed on this one.
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My washer was making noise but not agitating or spinning on any of the cycles that I turned the dial to. Didn't know if it was the transmission or something simple. I did some research and discovered it may be the belt, even though the belt looked new, I changed it anyway by just removing the front of the washer and cutting the belt off and putting the new belt on by just turning the pulleys until it fed on. No need to tip it over to do the repair...and it WORKED!! Then I did the happy dance around the house...see woman can repair 2!
Agitator would not spin and it was going to cost me I've a hundred soars for someone to come and fix it. I looked on this sight and found out what I thought was the problem and ordered four parts to fix it. I was amazed because they came in two days later. I started withe coupling which was the cheapest part and instaled it and it fixed it to return the other parts I called the 800 number and they emailed me a return authorization and I sent it back so it cost me 15 dollars and five minutes to fix it.
First I unplugged the washer from the wall and then I removed the front panel with a putty knife. I slid the putty knife in between the front panel and top of the washer to disengage the two clips (see parts diagram on Partselect.com). Then I removed the four nuts holding the motor. I then removed the motor and old belt. I installed the new motor and new belt and tightened the four nuts ensuring proper belt tension. The new motor included a new wiring harness and capacitor. The wiring harness installation instructions were easy to follow. Besure to read the all the instructions first before beginning to cut the old harness. Once the wiring harness was installed, the machined worked just like new. I did not need the Retaining Clip for Clutch since the new motor and clutch kit come as one assembly and there is no longer an actual clutch. The two-speed motor just has a pulley for the belt.
Removed the front cover of the washer by sliding a screw driver to release the clips. Loosened the 4 nuts that held the drivebelt motor pushed the motor back to release the drive belt. Replaced the drive belt, pulled motor until drive belt was snug and tighted the 4 bolts. At the same time, I replaced the 4 tub dampening straps located at the top of the tub and now the unit is just like new.
I loosened the 4 screws that hold the motor and clutch in place. Removed the motor and clutch and turned upside down. Removed the retaining clip. Pulled the old clutch off (does not come off very easy). Stuck the new clutch on and replaced the retaining clip. Slapped it back into the machine.
Finding the disassembly instructions in the control panel was very useful. After disassembly and inspection obviously the transmission had lost oil and deteriorate the belt and actually threw it off. Finding your web site was very helpful. The exploded views parts catalog were great! We had it rush shipped. It was great to speak with a representative on a sunday was excellent. The rep was knowledgeable and we concurred on which part were needed. Tracking number was correct via e-mail but only rec'd tracking number for one of the two packages which was stressful at the fedex office at pick-up. All items were rec'd on time assembly was straight forward. The basin retainer nut came loose after 5 loads and made a terrible noise. I applied blue loctite to nut and reinstalled. Seems to be working correctly. Bought an extended warranty which added 4 yrs. Washer failed 2 months after warr. Expired. Figures!! Great experience with partselect thank you.
I loosened the four nuts holding the motor in place, slid the motor toward the tub to slacken the belt enoug to remove it, then replaced old belt with new belt, pulled motor back in place until belt was tight, then tightened the four nuts holding th emotor in place.
took it appart and found that the suspension rod was broken. went on line an ordered the parts.The parts arrived 3 days later. Installed the parts and the washing machine was working within a half hour.
Bought all of the parts to remedy this. It ended up being the top transmission seal/bearing which is not a replaceable part. I could see the shaft moving side to side. But the parts diagrams are not detailed enough to show that when assembled.She led a good life.My new side loader is SO MUCH BETTER AND INSANELY EFFICIENT. I highly recommend making the change if you need a transmission..
removed front cover the agitater then cover over large nut then large nut then inner tub then split ring and tub bearing then disconnected the hardware around the outer tub then replaced transmission then put back together in reverse order.
Tipped washer over on to the front side. Removed back panel. Removed the flex coupling to the water pump. Removed the old belt. Installed the new belt and reversed the process to put components back together.
Removed the front panel with a stiff putty knife, removed the worn belt. Placed the new belt on the front pully and than the rear pully, turning clockwise. After checking the spin cycle I put the front panel back on and I was done.
I noticed the belt was off, first, then pulled it back on. Washer worked, but very noisily, as belt continued slippage. I bought new belt after reading how to repair, then when it arrived, I read how someone installed it without having to remove bolt, etc. I tried and succeeded. It agitates just fine, but stalls when spinning. It's like the belt is too tight, now. i am gonna try rotating the rotating parts to see if that will help loosen it.
turned washer on side to get at the bolts holding motor. loosen bolts. remove flexable basket for water pump or one end of it. slide motor to loosen belt. remove and replace belt. use large screwdriver on motor to hold tension on belt while tightening nuts. hardest part was getting clamps back on the rubber basket.
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