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A104 Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for A104 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the A104
46-60 of 453
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leak at trans. stem

  • Customer: Mike from Beachwood, OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 12 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
remove front, 2 screws hold top down, 1 screw holds adgitator on, hammer and punch to remove stem nut (clockwise) used wd40, lift tub out, hammer and punch to remove stem (clockwise), pull seal off, put liquid soap on seal and reverse process, no more leaks!!

Agitator Not Woking

  • Customer: Richard from Alexander City, AL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 12 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged power cord then disconnected the water supply and drain hose. Removed 2 screws and took the front panel off. Laid washer on it's side and posistioned the transmission with the cover facing upward. Removed the hex head screws then used a razor knife and a putty knife to remove the silicone sealant. Found that the agitator shaft spring had broken and fallen into the housing jamming the gears that's used in agitation. Removed the oil and all broken pieces of the spring. Installed new shaft spring, replaced the oil then applied sealant to the cover and screwed the cover back down. Let the washer stay in the same posistion for about 18 hours to let sealant dry completely. Then I sat the washer back on it's feet and removed 2 screws that holds the top lid in place. This allowed me access to the tub cover where the injector t is located. Installed the injector t along with the injector tube seal. Connected the hose and hose clamp. Then I put the lid back down and secured with the screws. Connected the water supply and drain hose then the power and selected a wash time and observed the operation. Everything worked ok so I put the front cover back on. Note: I had used the injector t from this washer to fix another washer that an appliance dealer had given me to use for parts to repair the one just described above. That was the only thing that was wrong with it. It was used for about a year and a half and it developed a problem in the spin cycle. Appears to be a brake problem. I intend to repair it as well.

Water inlet valve failed

  • Customer: Lawrence from Eau Claire, WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Disconnect the water lines. Remove two screws that hold the water valve to the back of the machine. Pull the water valve out and remove the panel that holds it on to the machine. Remove the water line from the valve to the wash tub. Remove the four wires from the valve remembering where each one goes on the new unit. Attach the valve to tub hose to the new unit. Attach the four wires in the proper order to the new unit . Screw the metal holding panel on to the valve. Push the unit in place and reattach with the two screws. Attach the water lines and use the machine. Remember to unplug the machine prior to changing the valve

Washer leaking from left side during fill

  • Customer: charles from Davis, CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
After reading the description of the problem and finding the source of the leak I decided to buy the parts suggested.
To begin:
1. Unplug and turn off water valves at the wall.
2. Unscrew the two front phillips head screws that hold the front of the machine on. Pull off the front facing panel of the washer.
3. There are two hex head screws that hold the lid on. Remove these and then the lid can be lifted to see the nozzle and the valve.
4. Unscrew the pipe clamp that hold the valve on to the pipe.
5. Take out the old valve and nozzle.
6. Use water or soap to lubricate the nozzle and valve before replacing.
7. Install the new parts and reinstall the pipe clamp.
8. Replace the lid and the screws.
9. Replace the face cover and the screws.
10. Plug in the machine and turn on the valves and test.

I tested the machine and thought I could save the water and run another cycle later. This is a bad idea. The water fills up and over the top when a new cycle is added because there is no water level sensor. If you decide to test it and need to empty the water instead of wash a load you can turn the dial to spin and it will drain your test water.
Best

The Dryer stopped working completely.

  • Customer: Elyse from Chicago, IL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 13 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
I looked up the procedure to remove the switch in a repair book, removed the broken switch. Then I reconnected the wire leads, put the part in and closed everything up. The part arrived so quickly and there were even instructions with the part which made the repair go so easily.

I accidentally broke the syphon elbow kit moving the washing machine

  • Customer: Alex from Downers Grove, IL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Simply disconnected 2 screws that hold on a metal cover plate for your arm to fit in.
Then disconnected 4 screws that hold the syphon in place, remove the syphon elbow and replace it with the new one, insert the four screws again and tighten making sure your arm is holding the elbow from the inside of the machine through the access hole. Then install access panel with the screws, do a test run with the machine pulled out to see if there are any leaks. Done.

Main drive belt worn

  • Customer: Stephan from Yonkers, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Tilted the machine back on a 45 degree angle while a friend held it tilted I grabbed the pump belt and removed it and then removed the main drive belt by turning it and derailing it off track . but the new belts on using a reverse technique by rerailing the new belts on to the pulleys. pushing the main motor away from the spring tension made it easier . very simple staight forward job. similiar to putting a chain on a bicycle!

Stripped leveler screw making impossible to level my washer

  • Customer: Rebecca from Wylie, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench set
  • 13 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Put blocks under the washer where the leveling leg was needed and screwed the part into the washer. Then it was just a matter of moving the washer into place and leveling. Pretty easy.

it was leaking underneath the washing machine tub

  • Customer: Jason from Clinton, OK
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
  • 11 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
That would take forever to write in everything you have to do, but I did go to a website that had the steps you must do to complete the repair. You can google tub seal kit and mounting stem and the brand of your appliance and i'm sure you will come across the steps to complete the repair. I would advise you to first order a spanner wrench it makes the job much easier and you really can't complete the job without it. So do that first and then take the machine apart if you suspect it's a tub seal leak and then order your parts. if i had a spanner wrench available to me from the beginning it would have gone much smoother from the start.

injector hose leak

  • Customer: Theodore from Millbrae, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
You can read elsewhere about how to open an old Maytag top-load washer. Two screws in the front holding the front on, and two screws underneath the 'ceiling'. That exposes the injector hose assembly.

Disassembly of old parts is a breeze. A challenge is that the new included plastic mount for the injector doesn't match the original. What I call is the mount, partselect.com calls an "injector sleeve bracket". In hindsight, I could have/should have just used the old mount again. My solution was to file a groove on the underside of the new mount, and use that as a guide for a wire tie that wraps around the mount and the L-bracket coming off of the side of the washer. I suspect that vibration and age will do in the wire tie in a couple of years. I plan to replace it with a hose clamp before that happens.

My understanding is that they really don't make washers like this anymore - the A512 - so I'm very happy to fork over a few dollars in order to keep this one running. We're in our 25th year of operating this one. Every additional year is a bonus!

Heard squealing sound when washer went into the "spin" mode. Tub did not spin

  • Customer: Edward from Stroudsburg, PA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced the 2 belts according to instructions received with the belts. Very easy repair

agitator would not work

  • Customer: Peter from Aurora, IL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
A tension sping on the motor broke, smoking the drive belt.
step1...remove front of the washer to access spring, tip washer back & prop on short 2 x 4 board. 5 minutes
step 2... remove one end of pump belt to get new bely up to drive pulley put on belt using fingers only & replaced the end of the pump belt....2 minutes

step 3...put new spring under motor & hook one end in attaching hole on motor, reach through with pliers to grasp spring to pull end to attach spot on base...1 minute

It took longer to open up the washer front & prop it up that it took to repair it. This is a siper easy repair!

Washer leaked from top, left corner of machine.

  • Customer: Robert from Hudson, WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Removed front of machine; then tilted back the top of machine, after removing the two screws in top front. Removed the old parts, trimmed the injector hose which was slightly longer than necessary, put new injector nozzle in ruber injector valve and inserted into the new sleeve, clamping the new hose to sleeve as well as clamping the remaining functioning hose to sleeve. The new sleeve mounting bracket was slightly different from the old one, but I was able to make it work with a small block of wood and two screws. The washing macine no longer leaks, the parts arrived timely, and the price was right. Thanks.

washer wouldn't spin or drain

  • Customer: George from Madison, VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 14 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
removed face of washer and replaced belts. The only problem I had was didn't own any torx security drivers.

Water would not shut off.

  • Customer: Allen from Bedford, PA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced old valve with new one.
All Instructions for the A104
46-60 of 453