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A104 Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for A104 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the A104
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Washer sometimes stops before cycle is finished

  • Customer: Richard from Arnaudville LA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 32 of 39 people found this instruction helpful
The washer would either stop too soon or advance too slowly through the cycle. I ordered a new timer motor. It was so easy to install that I did it while I was on hold on the phone. Removed four screws on top to open the front panel. Two screws holding the motor and two wires for the timer. That was it! Put it all back together and it works fine now.
Our old Maytag washer has a new life!

Stuck bushing on agitator.

  • Customer: Matthew from Benson VT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 29 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
This was a pretty simple repair. In this case, the part purchased here was not the actual problem, but had to be disturbed to fix another problem. After many years, corrosion and exhaustion of grease caused the bushing on the agitator shaft to seize, and the belts to slip. In this model machine, the bushing is accessed by first removing the agitator, which is held on by a single 1/4 inch set screw, and then removing the agitator seal, which is held in by a little spring clip on top of a washer. It's soft rubber, and you will probably need a small screwdriver or pocket knife to pry it out. In this case, the bushing was not too bad, so I was able to clean the hardened grease out and free it up with a little oil, using vise grips to rotate the agitator shaft, until the oil worked in enough.

Since seals don't like to be disturbed and reinstalled, and this one requires some prying to get out, I bought a new seal, even though the old one did not leak when I temporarily reinstalled it. There is a spring inside the seal, and it is packed with grease. The new seal comes with the spring and the grease already in it, so all that is needed is to slip it over the shaft (the top has some print embossed on it, making it easy to remember which is the top), press the washer down on top of it, and replace the spring clip.Slip the agitator back on its shaft and retighten the set screw, and you're back in business.

Run the machine, and check the area where the transmission enters the bottom of the tub. There's a little weep hole there, and if the seal leaks, you'll see water coming out there.

Water leak noted on floor at front of washer and at sides

  • Customer: Jeff from Moorpark CA
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 30 of 36 people found this instruction helpful
Occasional noted leak became worse and I had a repair service out. Incorrect detection of outer tub seal made so cancelled them and read comments about raising the top. Did so just at start of a rinse cycle to see soapy water shoot from top of syphon break then continue to dribble out through tub empty process--this is what had cause the water to flow down the interior drain hose and out through the side and bottom near the pump.

Ordered all the parts shown here and they arrived just in time for planned work. Did not need or use the clamp and gasket purchased as the gasket was included in the break package and I really like the old-style clamps much better.

Replaced the break and the elbow and put it back together. Things went south on a rinse as water shot out the back hose at the new elbow. I had not realized the size of the new elbow was smaller than the original. Went back to the old elbow but it bothered me that it would still move when the 4 assembly bolt-screws were completely tight.

So far this seems to have worked. There does not seem to be any leaking at all. For those who read this, the job could be done in about and hour for less than I spent if you observe and diagnose properly. It appears that the washer at the end of the Syphon Break wore out and that is what caused the leak.

Thanks much to PartSelect for being in business and to all the posters on this site for helping everyone to get these things done right!

Cold water would not flow into the washer

  • Customer: john from friendswood TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 25 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
After verifying that the supply wasn't the problem, I ordered the replacement inlet valve module.

1) shut off water to machine
2) removed the hose connections from the valve
3) unplugged the washer
4) removed the plate holding the module - 1 screw
5) removed the hose clamp from the valve module to the washer inlet
6) removed the two screws holding the valve module to the plate
7) removed the 2 wire connections to each of the two solenoids.
8) Reversed all of the steps above for the new valve module.
9) checked for leaks

Washer was leaking water onto the floor underneath

  • Customer: Eric from Bonnots Mill MO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 24 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
Pryed the front cover off and set it aside. I pulled the top cover off by removing the 1/2" hex screws under the front cover and hinged it back. Removed the agitator set screw with a 1/4" hex nut driver and pulled out the agitator assembly. Had to remove the nut that holds the hub assembly in by using a hammer and punch. There is not much room in the tub so be careful you don't hit the sides. It goes off by turning it clockwise. Then the splash guard comes off and then the inner tub with the top gasket and ring can be lifted out of the washer. The tapered cork covered hub was exposed and it also had to be removed with a hammer and punch clockwise after removing the torx set screw on the side of the hub. The rubber seal was now able to be removed under the hub and on top of the bearing on the outer tub. I had to clean all the accumulated scale off seal and bearing surfaces before putting new parts in (rubber seal, hub assembly, and new locking nut). Everything went back easily. Should be good for another 5-10 years...

washer was leaking onto the floor

  • Customer: Richard from Ashley Falls MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 24 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
First I disconnected the power and turned off the water supply. Then removed the front panel of the washer by removing the two phillips head screws from the lower left and right front of the machine. I then removed the four hex screws at the corners of the top of the machine using a socket set. The two screws in the front of the top come out through the inside and the two screws in the back come out through the access holes in the top. Next I disconnected the bleach/softener tube from the upper end to allow the lid to be raised. Then I swung the right hand side of the lid up fully and rested it on the left hand side support using the braces provided on the lid and resting the weight on the attached support string. The injector valve, inector nozzle and injector bracket are right on top on the left hand side. The bracket is taken out by removing one hex screw on the underside of the bracket. The valve and nozzle are removed by loosening the hex screw on the hose clamp, To replace, first assemble the rubber sleeve and plastic injector. The large end of the plastic injector should fit squarely into the slot of the rubber sleeve. To insert this assembly back into the molded end of the injector hose I used a small amout of laundry detergent to lubricate the large end of the rubber sleeve. This allowed the part to slide in without displacing the rubber sleeve from the plastic injector nozzle. Now, I replaced the associated parts (lid and front panel) and turned the water on and plugged the washer back in. No more leak. Thanks to my repair was easy. I did not need to replace the injector sleeve bracket but purchased the new one in case I broke the old one during the repair.

Washer motor start windings burned up

  • Customer: Eric from Seabeck WA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 26 of 34 people found this instruction helpful
The motor was easy to replace: unplug the wiring harness, slip off the belts, release the tension springs from the motor carriage with needle-nose pliers, and then unbolt the motor carriage with socket set and remove from the washer. Remove the pulley from the old motor with allen wrench and transfer the carriage to the new motor. Reverse operation for everything and you are back in business. The hardest part was the far back screw holding the carriage, a wobble extension helped.

washer filled with water even when OFF.

  • Customer: wayne from lees summit MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 23 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
Followed your directions and it went very easy.
Only took maybe 30 mins.
I was impressed with your trouble shooting and inst!!!!



Injection hose developed small pin hole

  • Customer: Keith from Lorena TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 21 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the two bottom screws holding on the front panel and removed panel. Removed two screws holding on the top lid and removed lid. Loosened clamp on injection hose at water valve and pulled hose from valve. Twisted other end of injection line counter-clockwise to loosen from tub and removed line. Installed new line in reverse order, but left off front cover to watch for leaks. Ran washer while watching through opening in front. When I confirmed no leaks, then replaced front cover.

Lid closes, switch wouldn't turn on machine.

  • Customer: Kenneth from Wilmington IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 22 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
Used toothpick for a year to push switch acctuator far enough to engage switch. Broke my foot and found time to order part thru PartSelect. Went from cast to boot and received part 2 days after ordered. Had difficulty with foot and getting to switch. Went back into PartSelect and figured out how to dis-assemmble panels thru the diagrams. Time on my job doesn't, just that their service and expertise that is available to everyone is there to use. Broken bones or not, I will always get my parts and advice from PartSelect. Thanks to PartSelect.

Strange noises - drum not always emptying

  • Customer: Kenneth from Sunnyvale CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 19 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Found a very stretched, loose pump belt. Was able to pull it off pump pulley and motor pulley easily. Pushed motor assembly toward transmission pulley and removed wider drive belt. Wiped all pulleys clean. There's a double on the motor- one for drive belt, one for pump belt. Removed two hoses from pump using nutdriver. Removed pump. New pump installed. Installed two hoses on new pump. Installed drive new drive belt. Installed pump belt last. Slid pump to near farthest spot in slots. Tested for correct tension by pinching pump belt. Should be able to pinch center so two pump belt sides come within 1/4" of each other just as the spring tensioned motor mount starts to move. Pused washer back into place after external hoses connected. All new hose washers and filters on both hot and cold. Ran, checked for leaks - none! Absolutely perfect. Put front panel back on. No weird noises and drum empties perfectly every time. My wife is so pleased she's doing more loads.

Washing Machine was leaking water

  • Customer: jeff from lindenhurst IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 20 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
Loosened the hose clamp, removed the injector valve and injector nozzle assembly, replaced both and tightened with new hose clamp. Fixed the problem for less than $20!! Washing machine is 20 years old and this was the first problem--hopefully it is now good for another 20 years!

burning rubber smell

  • Customer: EVAN from DUXBURY MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Wrench set
  • 22 of 32 people found this instruction helpful
The repair was easy but didn't fix the issue . The transmission was the problem washing machine would no longer agitate

The water didn't pump out during the spin cycle

  • Customer: Robert from Menomonee Falls WI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 19 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
I took out the two screws in the bottom front panel of the washer, and rotated the front panel from the bottom away from the machine until the top or the panel was released from the machine frame. I then tilted the washer back to get access to the bottom of the machine. The pump pulley had split in half, and the bottom half fell off the drive motor shaft. The only problem I had was breaking free the set screw that holds the pulley to the drive motor shaft. I used a long arm Allen wrench and an adjustable "Cresent" wrench to apply enough force to break the set screw loose. Iclamped the upper transmission belts tightly to keep the motor shaft from turning while I loosened the set screw.

cold water barely flows, hot is ok

  • Customer: James from Bedford TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 17 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
These Maytag people know how to build stuff. I was impressed with this valve. Built really smart. After a gazillion years (about 16 or so) the valve started making a funny groaning noise and the cold water flow was very slow. Took about 15-20 minutes to fill the tub.

the inlet valve is located on the back of the washer where the hoses are connected. In fact the hose connectors are part of the valve.

To replace this valve, start by unplugging and turning off the water spigots, unscrew the two hoses from the valve. (you need a towel here, but that'll be obvious soon enough.)

Unscrew the single screw at the top of the valve bracket (the bottom of the bracket is held in place without screws.) Remove the screw holding on the sheet metal and pull the bracket out as far as you can without stretching things. Write down what colors of wire are connected, then pull off the electrical connectors.

The valve outlet is a skinny (compared to the inlet hoses) rubber hose that has a clamp to hold it in place. The clamp needs to be loosened with a 3/16" nutdriver a plier would probably work, but may be hard to get in there. Now slide the clamp further up on the hose, dislodge the rubber hose off of the old valve. Now it's free.

Reverse the steps. Believe it or not, that is all. It works great and this washer probably has another 10 year left in it.
All Instructions for the A104
16-30 of 453