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A104 Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for A104 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the A104
61-75 of 463
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injector hose leak

  • Customer: Theodore from Millbrae CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
You can read elsewhere about how to open an old Maytag top-load washer. Two screws in the front holding the front on, and two screws underneath the 'ceiling'. That exposes the injector hose assembly.

Disassembly of old parts is a breeze. A challenge is that the new included plastic mount for the injector doesn't match the original. What I call is the mount, partselect.com calls an "injector sleeve bracket". In hindsight, I could have/should have just used the old mount again. My solution was to file a groove on the underside of the new mount, and use that as a guide for a wire tie that wraps around the mount and the L-bracket coming off of the side of the washer. I suspect that vibration and age will do in the wire tie in a couple of years. I plan to replace it with a hose clamp before that happens.

My understanding is that they really don't make washers like this anymore - the A512 - so I'm very happy to fork over a few dollars in order to keep this one running. We're in our 25th year of operating this one. Every additional year is a bonus!

Washer rocking to left and vibrating

  • Customer: John from Chesapeake VA
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Wish there was a video. I am above average handy but this one- I might just pay someone next time...The tape on the threads was a great tip but took a while to understand what they meant by putting tape on the threads. Scraping off the old pads is easy for the front one but the back pad and a half is so hard to reach to really get it cleaned. Bruised and cut knuckles on that one. Then not having the glue for the pads was a surprise and you have to get a good contact type cement that sets in 10-15 minutes or you will be waiting hours to put it back together. It was easy to put the first spring on, then the second and third got harder and harder.

Washer leaked from top, left corner of machine.

  • Customer: Robert from Hudson WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Removed front of machine; then tilted back the top of machine, after removing the two screws in top front. Removed the old parts, trimmed the injector hose which was slightly longer than necessary, put new injector nozzle in ruber injector valve and inserted into the new sleeve, clamping the new hose to sleeve as well as clamping the remaining functioning hose to sleeve. The new sleeve mounting bracket was slightly different from the old one, but I was able to make it work with a small block of wood and two screws. The washing macine no longer leaks, the parts arrived timely, and the price was right. Thanks.

Water leak

  • Customer: richard from Tarzana CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Tilted the washing machine back at 45 degree angle. Removed three screws from the underside of machine. Slipped belt off pump. Lessened two hose clamps and removed hoses.
Lifted old pump out. Dropped new pump in place.
Screwed in the 3 screws. Slipped on the belt.
Attached two hoses. Tightened hose clamps.
Set washing machine upright.

No more leak.
My problem was I could not prove the pump was the source, but after switching it out I have had no problems (good enough).

Washer did not drain.

  • Customer: Basil from St. Charles MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Took front panel off. Ran machine. Pump is see-through. Could not see any "aeration" of the water in the pump and no water was coming out of drain hose. Disconnected electric. Disconnected hose from drum to pump(first emptied ALL water from drom)and drained in bucket. Disconnected drain hose from pump to drain and drained any water. Checked for obstructions in hoses. Removed pump. Checked belt (was fine after 14 years). Ordered new pump. Received the next day! Replaced pump and tighten belt. Connected hoses and test it. All OK. Replace panel and did laundry.

hot water not working in 30 yr old washer

  • Customer: william from elmhurst IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
-determined problem
--verify that hose not clogged, screen filters clean then swapped cold w/ hot and verified that the problem was in the hot valve.
-Moved washer to get access to hot/cold valves
--opened access panel holding valve and swapped wires between hot/cold to verify that hot did not activate when it should
--Used voltohmmeter to verify that hot water valve had open circuit.
--Obtained replacement valve, installed, reconnected water lines and verified that hot and cold water worked.

One day, I found my dryer continued running after I opened the door. And next day, it stopped working at all. I thought it was time to buy a new one, since my dryer had been used for more than 15 years. But I was curious to know what went wrong, and recalled my friend told me he repaired the door

  • Customer: Xiaobin from Cordova TN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
My daughter found the video on youtube, which showed step by step repairing procedures. I just followed it and fixed my dryer in 15 min.

Leaking near one of the seal clamps

  • Customer: JIM from PINE RIVER MN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Thoroughly cleaned the edges to be sealed with a wire brush and sand paper. shimmed the top piece with 1/4 inch plywood strips. seated the top piece with the seal attached and worked the seal down into place. Positioned the seal clamp, carefully, and tightened the clamp screws. Replacing the seal did the trick, even though the old seal did not look to be in bad shape.

washer was leaking when water level got about 4 inches in tub

  • Customer: Brian from Bush LA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
It was fairly easy, start out by using a screwdriver and push down and out on the front cover and remove it. Take out the 2 small bolts that hold the top cover down to the sides and lift the top cover up and lean it back out of your way. On the bottom side of the agitator there is a small bolt that holds it down, loosen that bolt and pull the agitator out. The hardest part of the entire jod was to use a small chisel and hammer to take off the nut that holds the assembly down.Remember it has reverse threads,you have to use a chisel to back it off and use some WD40 to help remove the calsium build up that is around it. Once you get that large nut off, there is a set screw on the side of the assembly that you have to loosen up before you can take it off, it's a "star driver" head and not a allen wrench set screw.Just take your time and look at your new part and compare it with the old one and take your time and remember how you take the old part off,and you will not have any problem putting the new one on. This was the first time I ever worked on a washing machine, and by checking out the parts first and comparing everything,even someone that might not have much mechanical skills can change this out. My washer works fine and not a drop of water leaks anymore.One thing I did learn, if you change this part out and put it back together and try it out and it makes a funny sound and you smell something like its burning, you might did what I did. I thought I had it to tight, but I put the large nut on before I put the tub back on!!! The agitator was holding the tub down, but it could not spin in spin cycle.... Good luck with you repairs, you can do it.

leak at trans. stem

  • Customer: Mike from Beachwood OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
remove front, 2 screws hold top down, 1 screw holds adgitator on, hammer and punch to remove stem nut (clockwise) used wd40, lift tub out, hammer and punch to remove stem (clockwise), pull seal off, put liquid soap on seal and reverse process, no more leaks!!

Leaking from under tub

  • Customer: Reece from Joplin MO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
removed screws on front of washer, removed bolts holding top cover hinged back, nut driver to remove agitator, slipped agitator off, removed tub hoses, did not have special wrench to remove large nut on shaft, used punch and grinder to removed, had new large nut so wasn't concerned about damaging old one, pay attention to thread pattern to know how to turn, if you had special wrench job would be easier, removed spring bolts and took out inside drum and tub. cleaned corrosion and installed new seals, can be hard to slip on new seal, don't use grease, get dishwashing soap to use as lubricant to put on. Put back together and all is good.

I had a leak that started just under the rim of the washer and then ran down the outside of the machine

  • Customer: Janis from Georgetown TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Your website is wonderful. I read another womans account of how she fixed her machine and then I just followed her instructions...how cool is that!

Washing machine didnt fill with hot water.

  • Customer: Nicholas from Little Canada MN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
The repair was very simple.
1. Shut off water and disconnected the water lines.
2. Removed screws holding water valve bracket to wash machine.
3. Disconnected electrical connections and water fill hose.
Installation was reverse of removal. The directions said to use a small piece of rubber hose that was included in the package, but it was not necessary. Double check for water leaks before finishing installation.

no water drain

  • Customer: Franz from Lakeland FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
removed old pully, put new one on with hex driver, removed belts, put new belts on and finished.

Smoking Washing Machine.

  • Customer: Matthew from Wilmington DE
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Well, I figured out a couple of things during this process. #1 The Washer was smoking. It had happened before (a sock got suck between the basket and the tub) so I assumed that happened again. I couldn't see anything in that space this time, so I dissasbemled the washer to see if any clothing was there. Relatively easy once finding the screws to remove the front panel. #2 What I found was a sock in the pump box. I disconnected the hoses and removed it, saw nothing between the basket and tub and ran it to see if problem corrected itself. It still was smoking. That is when I checked the belts, #3 first the pump belt, replaced it, very easy, just pulled the old one off, and wheeled the new one on. It still was smoking, #4 so I replaced the drive belt, very easy and the same as the pump belt. It still was smoking so I lubed the wheels for the belts, and #5 cleaned the residual rubber around the wheel from the old, fried, dry rotted drive belt. No more smoke!!! However #6 remember to leave space between the basket and the top of the tub, as when I put the washer back together the basket didn't spin. I removed the top and ran the spin cycle, it spun fine, reconnected and it didn't spin, the tub top was touching the basket, that's when I relized the top was on too tight. I reattached and left about 1/4 in of space and all is well now.
All Instructions for the A104
61-75 of 463