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A104 Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for A104 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the A104
76-90 of 463
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no water drain

  • Customer: Franz from Lakeland FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
removed old pully, put new one on with hex driver, removed belts, put new belts on and finished.

Smoking Washing Machine.

  • Customer: Matthew from Wilmington DE
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Well, I figured out a couple of things during this process. #1 The Washer was smoking. It had happened before (a sock got suck between the basket and the tub) so I assumed that happened again. I couldn't see anything in that space this time, so I dissasbemled the washer to see if any clothing was there. Relatively easy once finding the screws to remove the front panel. #2 What I found was a sock in the pump box. I disconnected the hoses and removed it, saw nothing between the basket and tub and ran it to see if problem corrected itself. It still was smoking. That is when I checked the belts, #3 first the pump belt, replaced it, very easy, just pulled the old one off, and wheeled the new one on. It still was smoking, #4 so I replaced the drive belt, very easy and the same as the pump belt. It still was smoking so I lubed the wheels for the belts, and #5 cleaned the residual rubber around the wheel from the old, fried, dry rotted drive belt. No more smoke!!! However #6 remember to leave space between the basket and the top of the tub, as when I put the washer back together the basket didn't spin. I removed the top and ran the spin cycle, it spun fine, reconnected and it didn't spin, the tub top was touching the basket, that's when I relized the top was on too tight. I reattached and left about 1/4 in of space and all is well now.

Weak Agitation Cycle

  • Customer: Carl from Hollis NH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Agitation cycle was rather weak, and wife reported a strange sound and smell (burning belt). Replaced the drive belt (no better behavior). Removed the drive pulley, checked the bearing (with all the grease removed, definite clicking when spinning the bearing). Replaced the bearing. (still no better behavior). Took off the motor and cleaned the mount, including re-lubricating with silicone grease, and checked the springs. (still no better behavior). Did some research online and took a closer look at the drive pulley lug. It seems that I put the lug back incorrectly, forcing the pulley up too tightly so it could not spin back down the shaft. Once I put it back on correctly (I think), the agitation problem seemed to be fixed. So, it is likely that replacing the drive belt and/or bearing solved the problem, but that was masked due to my putting the lug on incorrectly. DIYers beware.

washer was leaking

  • Customer: jason from euless TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
first i removed front panel by pulling it from the bottom and then removing the top. then i removed the agitator with a 1/4 nut driver. then i had to open top lid which is hinged and held together by two 1/2 inch bolts. after i opened up the top of the washer i had to remove the white plastic top of the inner tub. in order to remove the inner tub there is a large nut that i had to use a punch and a hammer to break it loose. don't forget this nut is counterclockwise to loosen.hint use a little wd40 due to calcium build up around nut. once the inner tub is removed you should see the rubber bushing. be sure to remove all rust and water calcium build up before installing new bushing. i used a wool pad. put everything back together the way you took it apart and it should fix your leak.

Injector was leaking

  • Customer: Douglas from Clovis CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
This was a Maytag A490 of indeterminate age. Unscrewed 2 lower screws holding on front cover, removed cover. Used socket wrench to remove 2 screws holding top cover down, lifted top cover, removed old injector, replaced. The new injector didn't exactly match the shape of the old one and the lid wouldn't close. So I had to cut off some of the plastic shroud that came on the new one (didn't cut easily but I used a utility knife - BE CAREFUL). Afterwards, went in smoothly.

Water leak coming from rear, left side of washing machine.

  • Customer: Greg from Orem UT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Removed front access panel--very easy, two screws at bottom of panel, near the floor. Removed two more hex-headed screws that secure the top panel/lid to the top of the washing machine frame.
Most difficult problem was identifying the source of the leak. I saw water running out of a white, rectangular (about 1" x 3/4" x 3/4") box-like device that was installed in the water line that leads from the mixing valve (blue box, mounted at the back of washer) to the top of the tub. Discovered this device is called the injector assembly, have not yet been able to figure out what function it serves.
Disconnected one of the hose clamps that secure the injector assembly to the water hose. Removed the rubber injector valve and injector nozzle, the two parts that fit inside the above-described "box." Soaked the assembly "box" in vinegar to eliminate hard-water deposits. Replaced the two internal parts (injector nozzle & injector valve) with new (about $15, including shipping). This almost resolved the problem, still saw a small amount of water leaking from the whole assembly, but only about 5% of what was leaking. Haven't yet figured out why it's not completely dry, or what function that injector assembly serves.

Washing machine lid hinge balls fell off machine lid

  • Customer: Sandra L from Warren OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
First I had to hold the balls into the little holes on the side of the lid - one at a time- and tap the plastic ball into the side with a small hammer. I did the same with the other side. Silde the lid to match the holes located on the washing machine - give a little push to make sure that the balls are in place. You have your lid fixed to your machine where you can lift the lid and it will stay up without falling.

Note: If the balls fall out - make sure to tap a little harder so that the balls stay in place.

belt was slipping

  • Customer: ROBERT from MORGAN CITY LA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
The job went fast an well

washer wouldn't spin or drain

  • Customer: George from Madison VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
removed face of washer and replaced belts. The only problem I had was didn't own any torx security drivers.

washer would not fill

  • Customer: Louis from Stewartstown PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Easy video on Parts Select, then it still wouldn't work. The fuse behind the panel was blown, replaced that. And it was hero dad, I expect the bad water inlet valve blew the fuse.
Good Job, thanks for being there.

water kept filling until overflow

  • Customer: Michael from Woodside CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
removed back of control panel to find that a mouse chewed the air tube. tried to splice it with a barb connector, it did not work. Ordered part received it 2 days later and installed it. I would recommend buying parts from these folks!

tub leaked

  • Customer: Fritz from Redway CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
followed instructions elsewhere here. Procedure went flawlessly
To undo the nut I used a 1 1/2 " long x 5/16 bolt to hammer on.

STILL LEAKS. Needed PS2347235 =Tub Bearing Kit . Going back in...
THe remainder concerns the bearing procedure:
The 3 bolts holding the outer tub to the legs have rectangular washers. Those are not totally flat, and are marked for outside, top ... so pay attention. It might make a difference.
Outer tub came off the rubber bushing. Took some pulling the bushing off the shaft, and removing the sleeve bearing was a challenge at first, it would not move on the transmission shaft. Soaked with wd40 overnight. Drove it off with cold chisel (driving upward). For re-attaching the 3 tub bolts I used a ratchet tiedown strap to pull the 3 legs together to get enough thread to start, what with all those washers and things.
Ran spin cycle dry for 3 minutes as per instructions before filling with water. Success.

Main drive belt worn

  • Customer: Stephan from Yonkers NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Tilted the machine back on a 45 degree angle while a friend held it tilted I grabbed the pump belt and removed it and then removed the main drive belt by turning it and derailing it off track . but the new belts on using a reverse technique by rerailing the new belts on to the pulleys. pushing the main motor away from the spring tension made it easier . very simple staight forward job. similiar to putting a chain on a bicycle!

Washer stopped working mid cycle restarts after resetting lid

  • Customer: Eric from West Chester PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Repair went well, but my switch only had one contact on the non common end. The new switch had two contacts. One is for operation with lid open and one for lid closed. Make sure to connect to the lid closed contact and the common on the other end and leave the lid open contact unused.

Heard squealing sound when washer went into the "spin" mode. Tub did not spin

  • Customer: Edward from Stroudsburg PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced the 2 belts according to instructions received with the belts. Very easy repair
All Instructions for the A104
76-90 of 463