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A104 Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for A104 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the A104
76-90 of 463
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Weak Agitation Cycle

  • Customer: Carl from Hollis NH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Agitation cycle was rather weak, and wife reported a strange sound and smell (burning belt). Replaced the drive belt (no better behavior). Removed the drive pulley, checked the bearing (with all the grease removed, definite clicking when spinning the bearing). Replaced the bearing. (still no better behavior). Took off the motor and cleaned the mount, including re-lubricating with silicone grease, and checked the springs. (still no better behavior). Did some research online and took a closer look at the drive pulley lug. It seems that I put the lug back incorrectly, forcing the pulley up too tightly so it could not spin back down the shaft. Once I put it back on correctly (I think), the agitation problem seemed to be fixed. So, it is likely that replacing the drive belt and/or bearing solved the problem, but that was masked due to my putting the lug on incorrectly. DIYers beware.

washer was leaking

  • Customer: jason from euless TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
first i removed front panel by pulling it from the bottom and then removing the top. then i removed the agitator with a 1/4 nut driver. then i had to open top lid which is hinged and held together by two 1/2 inch bolts. after i opened up the top of the washer i had to remove the white plastic top of the inner tub. in order to remove the inner tub there is a large nut that i had to use a punch and a hammer to break it loose. don't forget this nut is counterclockwise to loosen.hint use a little wd40 due to calcium build up around nut. once the inner tub is removed you should see the rubber bushing. be sure to remove all rust and water calcium build up before installing new bushing. i used a wool pad. put everything back together the way you took it apart and it should fix your leak.

Injector was leaking

  • Customer: Douglas from Clovis CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
This was a Maytag A490 of indeterminate age. Unscrewed 2 lower screws holding on front cover, removed cover. Used socket wrench to remove 2 screws holding top cover down, lifted top cover, removed old injector, replaced. The new injector didn't exactly match the shape of the old one and the lid wouldn't close. So I had to cut off some of the plastic shroud that came on the new one (didn't cut easily but I used a utility knife - BE CAREFUL). Afterwards, went in smoothly.

Washing machine lid hinge balls fell off machine lid

  • Customer: Sandra L from Warren OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
First I had to hold the balls into the little holes on the side of the lid - one at a time- and tap the plastic ball into the side with a small hammer. I did the same with the other side. Silde the lid to match the holes located on the washing machine - give a little push to make sure that the balls are in place. You have your lid fixed to your machine where you can lift the lid and it will stay up without falling.

Note: If the balls fall out - make sure to tap a little harder so that the balls stay in place.

Water leak coming from rear, left side of washing machine.

  • Customer: Greg from Orem UT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Removed front access panel--very easy, two screws at bottom of panel, near the floor. Removed two more hex-headed screws that secure the top panel/lid to the top of the washing machine frame.
Most difficult problem was identifying the source of the leak. I saw water running out of a white, rectangular (about 1" x 3/4" x 3/4") box-like device that was installed in the water line that leads from the mixing valve (blue box, mounted at the back of washer) to the top of the tub. Discovered this device is called the injector assembly, have not yet been able to figure out what function it serves.
Disconnected one of the hose clamps that secure the injector assembly to the water hose. Removed the rubber injector valve and injector nozzle, the two parts that fit inside the above-described "box." Soaked the assembly "box" in vinegar to eliminate hard-water deposits. Replaced the two internal parts (injector nozzle & injector valve) with new (about $15, including shipping). This almost resolved the problem, still saw a small amount of water leaking from the whole assembly, but only about 5% of what was leaking. Haven't yet figured out why it's not completely dry, or what function that injector assembly serves.

belt was slipping

  • Customer: ROBERT from MORGAN CITY LA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
The job went fast an well

washer wouldn't spin or drain

  • Customer: George from Madison VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
removed face of washer and replaced belts. The only problem I had was didn't own any torx security drivers.

washer would not fill

  • Customer: Louis from Stewartstown PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Easy video on Parts Select, then it still wouldn't work. The fuse behind the panel was blown, replaced that. And it was hero dad, I expect the bad water inlet valve blew the fuse.
Good Job, thanks for being there.

water kept filling until overflow

  • Customer: Michael from Woodside CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
removed back of control panel to find that a mouse chewed the air tube. tried to splice it with a barb connector, it did not work. Ordered part received it 2 days later and installed it. I would recommend buying parts from these folks!

tub leaked

  • Customer: Fritz from Redway CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
followed instructions elsewhere here. Procedure went flawlessly
To undo the nut I used a 1 1/2 " long x 5/16 bolt to hammer on.

STILL LEAKS. Needed PS2347235 =Tub Bearing Kit . Going back in...
THe remainder concerns the bearing procedure:
The 3 bolts holding the outer tub to the legs have rectangular washers. Those are not totally flat, and are marked for outside, top ... so pay attention. It might make a difference.
Outer tub came off the rubber bushing. Took some pulling the bushing off the shaft, and removing the sleeve bearing was a challenge at first, it would not move on the transmission shaft. Soaked with wd40 overnight. Drove it off with cold chisel (driving upward). For re-attaching the 3 tub bolts I used a ratchet tiedown strap to pull the 3 legs together to get enough thread to start, what with all those washers and things.
Ran spin cycle dry for 3 minutes as per instructions before filling with water. Success.

Main drive belt worn

  • Customer: Stephan from Yonkers NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Tilted the machine back on a 45 degree angle while a friend held it tilted I grabbed the pump belt and removed it and then removed the main drive belt by turning it and derailing it off track . but the new belts on using a reverse technique by rerailing the new belts on to the pulleys. pushing the main motor away from the spring tension made it easier . very simple staight forward job. similiar to putting a chain on a bicycle!

Washer stopped working mid cycle restarts after resetting lid

  • Customer: Eric from West Chester PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Repair went well, but my switch only had one contact on the non common end. The new switch had two contacts. One is for operation with lid open and one for lid closed. Make sure to connect to the lid closed contact and the common on the other end and leave the lid open contact unused.

WASHER LEAKED WATER FROM BOTTOM SEAL

  • Customer: JACLYN from RICE LAKE WI
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
REMOVED WASHER TUBS INNER AND OUTER
NUT (PART # 10 ) ON INNER WAS HARD TO REMOVE AND IS A REVERSE THREAD USED HAMMER TO LOOSEN ONCE OFF REMOVED 1ST TUB - THEN REMOVED SET SCREW #17 AND THEN UNSCREWED MOUNTING S ITEM #29 THIS AGAIN REQUIRED SOME HAMMER TAPPING TO LOOSEN - ONCE OFF USED FLAT HEAD SCREWDRIVER TO PRY & REMOVE THE RUBBER PIECE ON BOTTOM OF OUTER OR 2ND TUB -BUT KEEP GOING AS THE LEAK WILL PROBABLY BE FROM PART #20 TUB BEARING ( THIS WILL SAVE YOU THE TIME TO TEST AND FIND OUT IT STILL LEAKS AND HAVE TO TAKE APART AGAIN AFTER ONLY REPLACING #29 REMOVED 3 BOLTS HOLDING TUB - DISCONNECTED HOSES AND REMOVED 2ND TUB - USED RUBBER HAMMER TO KNOCK OUT AND INSTALL #20 TUB BEARING - REASEMBLED AND WOW NO LEAKS TO COST ABOUT $120 - TIME WORKED ON 3 HRS - ONLY BECAUSE TOOK APART 2 TIMES - DOWN TIME ON WASHER 10 DAYS AS WE DIDN'T ORDER ALL PARTS TO START WITH NO BEER NEEDED BUT DID ENJOY A NICE RED WINE - GOOD LUCK

Heard squealing sound when washer went into the "spin" mode. Tub did not spin

  • Customer: Edward from Stroudsburg PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced the 2 belts according to instructions received with the belts. Very easy repair

Cold water side of inlet valve makes loud noise.

  • Customer: Kurt from Rock Hill SC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Actually, the loud noise would happen only when valve shuts down water flow after filling up the washer (when water flow stops and washing cycle begins).
Replacement part was almost exactly the same. I did not need little transparent hose piece (used clamp that was already there). I used a combination of repair tips others already listed here: unplug washer's electricity cord 1st ( turn water off ; unhook hoses from back of washer(...); remove top screw off of inlet valve's back panel first and push up/out the bottom; unscrew valve off of panel; without yanking things around much, note exact connections of cables & hose(s); replace with new part, and put back on in reverse order.
One important note: the new part's screw holes were ungrooved but not too hard to slowly work in the screws because of the soft alloy. Be patient, good luck!
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All Instructions for the A104
76-90 of 463