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PartSelect Number PS1583805
This part has two ports for water to enter. It is blue and is intended for use with many washing machines and comes with a multi-mount bracket and an outlet adaptor.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I started by unplugging the appliance and then shut off the hot and cold water faucets then I disconnected and drained the hoses. Next, I removed the two screws that held the valve assembly in place. I then pulled the assembly out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wire plugs. The last step was to loosen the hose clamp on the outlet hose and pull off the outlet hose. I reversed the steps to install the new assembly and the total repair took about 10 minutes.
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I moved wash machine away from wall and unplugged from wall outlet. Shut off water, then removed hot and cold water lines from water inlet valve,removed screw from mounting plate and removed valve from wash machine. Checked to see if replacement valve was compatible (exact fit).Unscrewed the two screws holding valve to mounting plate,unscrewed hose clamp and removed water line at top of valve (outlet). Removed the four wires from solinoids.Replaced the four wires onto the new valve as they were on the old valve,reattached water line onto the top of valve and tightened.Reattached valve to mount plate with the two screws and mounted back onto machine. Hooked up hot and cold water lines back onto valve and snugged with pliers. Turned on water checked for leaks (no leaks), and did a load of laundry. Super simple,well worth doing yourself.
Followed your directions and it went very easy.Only took maybe 30 mins.I was impressed with your trouble shooting and inst!!!!Thankswayne
After verifying that the supply wasn't the problem, I ordered the replacement inlet valve module.1) shut off water to machine2) removed the hose connections from the valve3) unplugged the washer4) removed the plate holding the module - 1 screw5) removed the hose clamp from the valve module to the washer inlet 6) removed the two screws holding the valve module to the plate7) removed the 2 wire connections to each of the two solenoids.8) Reversed all of the steps above for the new valve module.9) checked for leaks
These Maytag people know how to build stuff. I was impressed with this valve. Built really smart. After a gazillion years (about 16 or so) the valve started making a funny groaning noise and the cold water flow was very slow. Took about 15-20 minutes to fill the tub.the inlet valve is located on the back of the washer where the hoses are connected. In fact the hose connectors are part of the valve.To replace this valve, start by unplugging and turning off the water spigots, unscrew the two hoses from the valve. (you need a towel here, but that'll be obvious soon enough.) Unscrew the single screw at the top of the valve bracket (the bottom of the bracket is held in place without screws.) Remove the screw holding on the sheet metal and pull the bracket out as far as you can without stretching things. Write down what colors of wire are connected, then pull off the electrical connectors. The valve outlet is a skinny (compared to the inlet hoses) rubber hose that has a clamp to hold it in place. The clamp needs to be loosened with a 3/16" nutdriver a plier would probably work, but may be hard to get in there. Now slide the clamp further up on the hose, dislodge the rubber hose off of the old valve. Now it's free. Reverse the steps. Believe it or not, that is all. It works great and this washer probably has another 10 year left in it.
Went on the PartSelect website, input the problem, and got the Water Inlet Valve as the diagnosis. When the part arrived, I viewed the short video on replacing the Water Inlet Valve and just followed the instructions. It could not have been easier. After turning off both the hot and cold water and pulling the plug from the wall socket, I removed the screw holding the bracket and valve to the machine; removed the 2 screws holding the valve to the bracket; removed the wire harness ends from each solenoid on the valve; replaced the valve with the new one and reattached the wire harness, followed by reattaching the bracket to the valve, and assembling to the machine.
Disconnect the water lines. Remove two screws that hold the water valve to the back of the machine. Pull the water valve out and remove the panel that holds it on to the machine. Remove the water line from the valve to the wash tub. Remove the four wires from the valve remembering where each one goes on the new unit. Attach the valve to tub hose to the new unit. Attach the four wires in the proper order to the new unit . Screw the metal holding panel on to the valve. Push the unit in place and reattach with the two screws. Attach the water lines and use the machine. Remember to unplug the machine prior to changing the valve
Replaced old valve with new one.
-determined problem--verify that hose not clogged, screen filters clean then swapped cold w/ hot and verified that the problem was in the hot valve.-Moved washer to get access to hot/cold valves--opened access panel holding valve and swapped wires between hot/cold to verify that hot did not activate when it should--Used voltohmmeter to verify that hot water valve had open circuit.--Obtained replacement valve, installed, reconnected water lines and verified that hot and cold water worked.
Of couse, turn off water to machine. Remove hoses. Then had to open unit - easiest by popping spring in with flat blade in seam under lid. Screws holding valve are on back of unit at hose inlet, so simply unscrew to remove failed valve. Clamp holding hose onto valve is crimped with pliers to remove. I suggest spending the 50 cents a hardware store for new clamp, as my reattachment of existing clamp onto new value leaked. There are four electrical connectors, so remember order in which you removed them and return to same on new unit.Reassemble in reverse (hoses, water on) and your all set.Pretty easy: I figure it would be about $200 for service guy and part. My cost: $30 and 30 minutes
This was an easy repair. 1st I removed both water hoses2nd I removed 1 hex head screw that released a backing plate & removed the plate holding the water inlet valve.3rd I pulled the 4 electrical connections & loosened a clamp to remove a small water hose.4th I removed 2 hex head screws that held the water valve to the backing plate.-----------that was a whole 5 - 10 minutes!------------Next I reversed the process4th I attached the inlet valve with the 2 hex head screws5th re-attached the 4 electrical connections(had slip on spades) pushed on the hose & tighterned the clamp.6th replaced the backing plate with the inlet valve attached & tightened the single hex head screw.7th re-attached the hot & cold lines................................DONE 15 minutes tops
The repair was very simple. 1. Shut off water and disconnected the water lines.2. Removed screws holding water valve bracket to wash machine.3. Disconnected electrical connections and water fill hose.Installation was reverse of removal. The directions said to use a small piece of rubber hose that was included in the package, but it was not necessary. Double check for water leaks before finishing installation.
Actually, the loud noise would happen only when valve shuts down water flow after filling up the washer (when water flow stops and washing cycle begins).Replacement part was almost exactly the same. I did not need little transparent hose piece (used clamp that was already there). I used a combination of repair tips others already listed here: unplug washer's electricity cord 1st ( turn water off ; unhook hoses from back of washer(...); remove top screw off of inlet valve's back panel first and push up/out the bottom; unscrew valve off of panel; without yanking things around much, note exact connections of cables & hose(s); replace with new part, and put back on in reverse order. One important note: the new part's screw holes were ungrooved but not too hard to slowly work in the screws because of the soft alloy. Be patient, good luck!PartSelect: Great website/catalog, great service.
Easy video on Parts Select, then it still wouldn't work. The fuse behind the panel was blown, replaced that. And it was hero dad, I expect the bad water inlet valve blew the fuse.Good Job, thanks for being there.
The water valve on the cold side was making noise when cold water ran. I removed the screens but did not see a problem. I ordered a new valve and installed. The noise is gone and the water flow is back to normal.At the time we did not realize the water flow had slowed.
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