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PartSelect Number PS11742780
This cycling thermostat has a limit of 153 degrees Fahrenheit, meaning that your dryer will cut out when the internal temperature reaches 153 degrees. It kicks back in though, when the temperature drops by 15 degrees Fahrenheit. This thermostat is just about two inches long.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Based on my research, the thermal fuse could be blown out so I tested it and it was. I've replaced the thermal fuse, high-limit thermostat and cycling thermostat. bam! it's up and running again. I'd highly recommended ordering your parts thru PartSeclect..the order was easy and shipping is quick. Thanks
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... I figured it was some over temp switch but then read about the gas solenoid problems others were having... bought $100.00 worth of parts... saved the old just in case down the road I might need them... figured a service call would cost me that much... now lots of new parts... and a working dryer. Done!
DIAGNOSTICS: Unplug dryer to reset controls. Remove lower cover. Plug back in. Start dryer. If flame starts and goes out in a few seconds, probably the cycling thermostat (located centrally near bottom of dryer) is bad. It fits in the center of the thermostat heater (not replaced). Use the on-line schematic. I reset the controls (as above) again and jumpered the cycling thermostat. This time the flame stayed on. I turned off dryer before High Limit Thermal Fuse could blow out. Only a trained electrician should do the above.REPAIRS: Decided to remove main cover, to get better angle on thermostat screws. Unplugged. Removed door first. Be gentle with wires. Be careful with drum, it will simply fall out if jarred. Remove two screws for cycling thermostat. Remove wires, replace cycling thermostst. Reassemble. Be sure drum is still on rollers on back and anti-friction strips in front. SHORTCUT: If you use an articulated socket wrench on the thermostat screws, you can save your self the trouble of removing the front cover, door, and possibly drum.
I first unpluged the dryer then removed the bottom cover (two screws) then found the correct socket and removed the components and replaced them wire for wire. PLugged it back in and strated the dryer and watched the process. Unforunately it cycled twice and then stopped working. I went to a local appliance store to buy another high limit fuse because I thought it blew and happened to talk about the situation to a man behind the counter and he insisted it was the gas coils so I bought some and replaced them and its working fine now without replacing any more components. Im not a aapliance repair man but mechanically inclined but experience does pay. Hey, everything is easy if you know how...
I asked the Gas Co. if they can come out and relight the pilot to my dryer... (which is common for gas dryers) He tested the equipment and told me that the thermostat was the problem. Most places was looking for around $160 for parts and labor. Well, I saved around 130, as I just simply replaced the thermostat. DONE DEAL!
Remove bottom panel from dryer. disconnect wires off of Limit switch. Unscrew 2 screws, remove old switch. Reverse to install. Important, if limit goes bad you need to replace cycling thermostat or chances are the limit will go out again. (Limit on back wall of dryer). The cycling thermostat is right under the lint screen. Remove 3 wires. Remove 2 screws, remove switch. Reverse to install new cycling thermostat. Toatl cost of 2 parts used 16 dollars and change. Thanks
Took the cover off the front of the dryer by removing the two screws that hold the cover in place. Then removed the two screws that held the heating element in place and removed the heating element. Removed the screws that held in the theremostats and then disconnected the two wires and put them on the new thermostat. Rescrewed them in with excisting screws and then put the heating element back in. Put the cover back on and turned on the dryer, and presto it all works again.
Online, I asked an expert who told me to test all parts, but couldn't or wouldn't tell me how to get to those on the back wall. They were impossible to reach to test without removing the drum. On the PartSelect web pages I found the clue: undo two screws that hold the heating element, fuse, and limit thermostat. Pull them forward and you can test them easily. While trying to figure that out and waiting for the expert's reply, I ordered all the possibly failing parts. I tested the new ones and they tested the same as the old, so I decided it was probably the Cycling Thermostat. I replaced that one, put the old set back, and tried it. Voila! It works like a dream. I've sent the unused parts back for reimbursement.
Make a long story short, dryer was on fire from lint in the bottom of it. burned up some wires & other parts. it was easy to repair the wire & replace the parts every thing worked out fine. REMEMBER TO CLEAN OUT THE LINT IN THE BOTTOM OF THR DRYER not only the lint filter or this could happen to you.
It was not the Cycling Thermostat-the problem was the Gas solenoids- the Igniter would cycle on and off and would not light when calling for gas because the solenoids would remain closed. re-ordered solenoid replacement kit and job was complete.Thanks for your online help!
removed front cover and top took drum out remove heating unit replced limit switch and fuse reinstalled installed new idler put new belt around drum installed drum replaced glides put top back on and front cover . then replaced boosting heater witch is on the blower also cycling thermostat
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