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PartSelect Number PS11739774
This injector sleeve bracket is white and made entirely of plastic. This is a side mounting style bracket.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
First I disconnected the power and turned off the water supply. Then removed the front panel of the washer by removing the two phillips head screws from the lower left and right front of the machine. I then removed the four hex screws at the corners of the top of the machine using a socket set. The two screws in the front of the top come out through the inside and the two screws in the back come out through the access holes in the top. Next I disconnected the bleach/softener tube from the upper end to allow the lid to be raised. Then I swung the right hand side of the lid up fully and rested it on the left hand side support using the braces provided on the lid and resting the weight on the attached support string. The injector valve, inector nozzle and injector bracket are right on top on the left hand side. The bracket is taken out by removing one hex screw on the underside of the bracket. The valve and nozzle are removed by loosening the hex screw on the hose clamp, To replace, first assemble the rubber sleeve and plastic injector. The large end of the plastic injector should fit squarely into the slot of the rubber sleeve. To insert this assembly back into the molded end of the injector hose I used a small amout of laundry detergent to lubricate the large end of the rubber sleeve. This allowed the part to slide in without displacing the rubber sleeve from the plastic injector nozzle. Now, I replaced the associated parts (lid and front panel) and turned the water on and plugged the washer back in. No more leak. Thanks to PartSelect.com my repair was easy. I did not need to replace the injector sleeve bracket but purchased the new one in case I broke the old one during the repair.
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I took off the front of machine by taking out the two screws at bottom of front panel. As I turned the water off and on I could see the leak coming from the sleeve bracket area. Using a small socket I was able to loosen the screw and pull apart the hose from the valve and replace with the new valve in about 30 seconds. Tightened everything back up, turned on the water again--all dry! Put panel back on and good as new!
This clothes washer is 35 years old and runs like a champ. I did notice a bit of water below the left rear and assumed that a hose was leaking. I let it go for about 6 months, until I could fit it into the "to-do" list. During that time, the hot/cold water intake valve died. I ordered the replacement hot/cold valve a month ago but noticed, upon removal of the valve, that there was significant water drip evidence around the electrical valve solenoids. The water drips caused the valve to die. Drips came from a clogged injector hose air break directly above the valve. Replaced all hoses and water level vacuum air line. Very easy process. The front drops off with two screws. The lid is off with two screws. All hoses easy to R/R. It took about 2 hours to complete. All replacement parts were perfect. My belts are fine so I'm ready for another 30 years of service.
Removed two screws from bottom of front cover. Raised front cover to disingage clips and remove. Removed two screws to release top cover. Propped top cover up with mop to allow access to injector site. Removed two clamps to free injector sleeve, nozzle and valve from inlet hose. Installed new clamps, sleeve, nozzle and bracket. Lowered top cover and tested for leaks. None found. Reinstalled top cover. Reinstalled front cover. Washer back in service.
My washer is very old but in very good condition, it was my mothers when I was a teenager and now I am 50! This is the first repair ever done on it, my son was sure I should just buy a new one but my daughter and I had other ideas. We went on line and looked it up and followed easy directions and found the small part that was leaking right away.It had just worn out. we then ordered the parts for under $20.00 and within a few day's it was here and we were back in the laundry washing. Thank you soooo much, we are not going to let this one down with my son for some time =)
Removed front cover by removal of 2 phillips screws at bottom of front panel. Removed two cap screws from lf and rf corners attaching the top to the side panels. Raised and blocked up with piece of wood the hinged top of machine. Removed hose clamps with nut driver and cotter pin remover to expand the maytag clamps for reuse and to break the stick of the hoses to the old sleeve. Removed the clamp at the water fill valve on the water hose run up to the sleeve. Removed the water injector from the washer fill hose and removed the plastic injector for reuse in the injector hose. Inserted it into the fill hose as the old removed sample revealed. Installed the new improved plastic sleeve with one of two original screws, no longer using two but one screw for mounting. Installed original clamps on new hoses and reinstalled hoses on new sleeve. Pressed run dial center to start fill to ensure water leak was now cured. Reinstalled lf and rf cap screws to side panels. Reinstalled front panel 2 phillips retaining screws. Tested cycles and no leaks, on this 1966 machine bought new in may of 1966, along with its companion maytag dryer. Both remain in good use. A comparable maytag washer is 799. 00 At lowes. . . Thank you, fred maytag, for the best washer with the easiest design to repair, if it ever needs parts. . . And thanks, partselect. Com for having these 44 year old washing machine parts. Interesting to note that this sleeve not only had an added water fence around its open vent slots to prevent water overflow, but that it now tilted rearward on the oem mount to aid in that desire. It is always good to see american companies that are continually upgrading their parts to work better and to fit in older machines, like maytag has always done, in their search for excellence.
I removed the front of the washer and lifted the top. I could see the water was leaking from injector nozzle. I looked online at PartSelect.com, found my model and make. Looked up the defective parts and ordered them. They came in three days. I installed the parts in about 20 minutes and it worked fine.
Noticed small pool of water on left side. Diagnosed it was injector tube. Ordered parts. Removed front panel by removing two phillips screws and then pushed down to disengage spring clips. Used nutdriver to remover two bolts holding top cover and then undid bleach dispenser hose.Lifted top cover and removed clamps holding injector and fill. Replaced using 1 1/16" Stainless steel screw clamps.THIS WAS THE FIRST REPAIR EVER ON THIS WASHER!! SIMPLY AMAZING PERFORMANCE. STILL SPINS AT HIGH RPM AND IS QUIET. Bought for my folks as a gift in 1979.This is the reason I bought the last Maytag top loaders made in '05. Also had another one 24 years with only one repair.Parts Select, thank you! Parts arrived in three days.
Removed the front cover with two screws at the bottom face. Two steel bolts and the top raises up. Removed the old rubber part and put the new one in. NO LEAK!I had read where several people had to do the same thing. I will always have a washer basin under it from now on though.
Assembled the parts, put them into the machine, moved it back into place, started it up and it is running fine. Thanks for the good service, good parts and they arrived on time.
open washer as direct from your repair page. Saw where water was coming from . replace parts , ran washer , job done. thank you for your help.
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