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PartSelect Number PS11738877
This washing machine injector hose runs from your washer's inlet to its injector. It is black and made of rubber. It is also available in an injector kit.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Removed front of machine; then tilted back the top of machine, after removing the two screws in top front. Removed the old parts, trimmed the injector hose which was slightly longer than necessary, put new injector nozzle in ruber injector valve and inserted into the new sleeve, clamping the new hose to sleeve as well as clamping the remaining functioning hose to sleeve. The new sleeve mounting bracket was slightly different from the old one, but I was able to make it work with a small block of wood and two screws. The washing macine no longer leaks, the parts arrived timely, and the price was right. Thanks.
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This clothes washer is 35 years old and runs like a champ. I did notice a bit of water below the left rear and assumed that a hose was leaking. I let it go for about 6 months, until I could fit it into the "to-do" list. During that time, the hot/cold water intake valve died. I ordered the replacement hot/cold valve a month ago but noticed, upon removal of the valve, that there was significant water drip evidence around the electrical valve solenoids. The water drips caused the valve to die. Drips came from a clogged injector hose air break directly above the valve. Replaced all hoses and water level vacuum air line. Very easy process. The front drops off with two screws. The lid is off with two screws. All hoses easy to R/R. It took about 2 hours to complete. All replacement parts were perfect. My belts are fine so I'm ready for another 30 years of service.
Removed front cover by removal of 2 phillips screws at bottom of front panel. Removed two cap screws from lf and rf corners attaching the top to the side panels. Raised and blocked up with piece of wood the hinged top of machine. Removed hose clamps with nut driver and cotter pin remover to expand the maytag clamps for reuse and to break the stick of the hoses to the old sleeve. Removed the clamp at the water fill valve on the water hose run up to the sleeve. Removed the water injector from the washer fill hose and removed the plastic injector for reuse in the injector hose. Inserted it into the fill hose as the old removed sample revealed. Installed the new improved plastic sleeve with one of two original screws, no longer using two but one screw for mounting. Installed original clamps on new hoses and reinstalled hoses on new sleeve. Pressed run dial center to start fill to ensure water leak was now cured. Reinstalled lf and rf cap screws to side panels. Reinstalled front panel 2 phillips retaining screws. Tested cycles and no leaks, on this 1966 machine bought new in may of 1966, along with its companion maytag dryer. Both remain in good use. A comparable maytag washer is 799. 00 At lowes. . . Thank you, fred maytag, for the best washer with the easiest design to repair, if it ever needs parts. . . And thanks, partselect. Com for having these 44 year old washing machine parts. Interesting to note that this sleeve not only had an added water fence around its open vent slots to prevent water overflow, but that it now tilted rearward on the oem mount to aid in that desire. It is always good to see american companies that are continually upgrading their parts to work better and to fit in older machines, like maytag has always done, in their search for excellence.
Remove front panel of machine, 2 screws at bottom. Remove 2 bolts at top front with nut driver and whole top can be lifted to expose all parts. Remove injector hose clamps and clamp new hoses in place. I replaced both injejctor hoses while open although only one had small hole in it. This is the only repair done on this coin-op machine in 20 years. At this time I did replace both drive belts but they could have run for more years, no cracks or breaks in belts. This machine is in a 12 unit apartment building. We have two on them, same age. We purchased both coin ops newin 1987.
unplug machine ,shut off water supply,Removed 2 lower front panel screws ,raise panel upward "hinge type motion"and removed , Remove 2 self tapping screws from under front corners, removed liquid bleach tube from upper connector ,raise top toward back of machine , place prop "piece of wood" to hold top up,removed 1 screw attaching injector ,now replaced injector assy and install with new hoses and clamps. then assemble in reverse order
By removing the front panel and raising the top panel, I was able to observe that water was overflowing from a small plastic "cup" that was positioned midway along the inlet lines for water entering the washer tub. None of the adjacent parts were visibly damaged or broken, but the rubber ones were soft and "gummy" to some degree. I ordered the three parts that I was able to identify, based on the photos at PartSelect.com. They arrived ahead of schedule and I was able to install them the same day. The only additional disassembly involved disconnecting the hot and cold water lines, removing the water inlet shield and gaining access to the upstream end of the old rubber hose in order to replace it with the new one.
Replace the injector hose
Remove fron cover raised lid slightly and moved it slightly to the right exposing injector and hoses. replace one hose and installed new injector and clamps. Problem solved.But what needs to be said is that the PARTS SELECT Website made it easily to identify the parts needed, fair pricing, way lower than local Maytag dealer, and exceptional speedy delivery (basic delivery option).
Assembled the parts, put them into the machine, moved it back into place, started it up and it is running fine. Thanks for the good service, good parts and they arrived on time.
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