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PartSelect Number PS11738945
This part is commonly known to cause a leak at the top left corner of the outer tub. It fits over the injector nozzle.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Removed two screws at bottom of front panel and then removed front panel. Then removed two self-tapping bolts (one on each side) holding top panel in place and swung the panel up, out of the way, to expose top of tub and water injection components. Cut off one pinch clamp and loosened screw clamp holding two injector hoses to the injector sleeve. Removed these water injector hoses from injector sleeve assembly which is mounted on top of left side panel upper flange. Replaced deteriorated rubber injector valve, nozzle and the sleeve for the injector (plastic housing containing the injector valve and nozzle). Also replaced deteriorated injector tube seal where injector tube elbow mounts to top of tub assembly. Reinstalled injector hoses with a replacement screw clamp to replace the one cut off. tightened the new clamp and the other, original, screw clamp and checked for leaks. This solved the leakage problem. Secured top panel and re-installed front panel. Hardest part of the task was determining where the leak emanated from but once found and parts ordered, it was a relative snap to fix.
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I thought I had only a water valve problem - both the noise and leak seemed to come from the water valve assembly - but I had two. After replaced the water valve (a job which was easy to do as the assembly was easily accessed from the rear of the machine) the moaning stopped but I was surprised to discover that I had a stream of water pouring from under the machine. I pulled the front panel (two phillips head screws needed to be removed) and raised opened the top assembly after removing two hex screws. (The diagram on PartSelect.com was helpful in understanding what I had to deal with). I observed the fill action, and found that the water was leaking from the slots in the fill nozzle sleeve, in the water injector hose line. (The new inlet water valves had increased the pressure at the fill nozzle and increased the leak from that point which I had not suspected to be the source of the leaking water). The basic problem was that the rubber valve sleeve had shrunk in length and was no longer flexible, allowing water to come out of the sleeve slots. I ordered an injector nozzle and valve and installed them in the original sleeve bracket in just a few minutes (two clamps had to be loosened, and the hose sections pulled back to insert the valve and nozzle assembly). (I had also ordered a replacement bracket just in case the old one might break, but it was not the correct part and the old one was fine.)I checked for leaks and closed up the machine. Problems solved! It is now both quiet and leak-free. (Moral, open the machine and check the nozzle for leaks - even if you suspect only the water valve assembly. The nozzle valve is located above the water valve and its leaks drop onto the water valve, making it look like the water valve assembly is the source of the leak.)
Loosened the hose clamp, removed the injector valve and injector nozzle assembly, replaced both and tightened with new hose clamp. Fixed the problem for less than $20!! Washing machine is 20 years old and this was the first problem--hopefully it is now good for another 20 years!
First I disconnected the power and turned off the water supply. Then removed the front panel of the washer by removing the two phillips head screws from the lower left and right front of the machine. I then removed the four hex screws at the corners of the top of the machine using a socket set. The two screws in the front of the top come out through the inside and the two screws in the back come out through the access holes in the top. Next I disconnected the bleach/softener tube from the upper end to allow the lid to be raised. Then I swung the right hand side of the lid up fully and rested it on the left hand side support using the braces provided on the lid and resting the weight on the attached support string. The injector valve, inector nozzle and injector bracket are right on top on the left hand side. The bracket is taken out by removing one hex screw on the underside of the bracket. The valve and nozzle are removed by loosening the hex screw on the hose clamp, To replace, first assemble the rubber sleeve and plastic injector. The large end of the plastic injector should fit squarely into the slot of the rubber sleeve. To insert this assembly back into the molded end of the injector hose I used a small amout of laundry detergent to lubricate the large end of the rubber sleeve. This allowed the part to slide in without displacing the rubber sleeve from the plastic injector nozzle. Now, I replaced the associated parts (lid and front panel) and turned the water on and plugged the washer back in. No more leak. Thanks to PartSelect.com my repair was easy. I did not need to replace the injector sleeve bracket but purchased the new one in case I broke the old one during the repair.
Water was leaking at the injector nozzle during the fill cycle. I could not visually see any damage to the existing part, but, ordered replacement parts, anyway. The new parts arrived and looked EXACTLY like the old ones. Clearly, the new parts would leak, too. So, I cut a three-inch length of 3/4-inch OD pipe and spliced the two hoses together, completely eliminating the troublesome parts. The washer works fine and does not leak. And, it fills much faster, now. I still have no clue as to the purpose of the injector nozzle nor do I know why it did NOT leak for 30 years.
Removed front of machine; then tilted back the top of machine, after removing the two screws in top front. Removed the old parts, trimmed the injector hose which was slightly longer than necessary, put new injector nozzle in ruber injector valve and inserted into the new sleeve, clamping the new hose to sleeve as well as clamping the remaining functioning hose to sleeve. The new sleeve mounting bracket was slightly different from the old one, but I was able to make it work with a small block of wood and two screws. The washing macine no longer leaks, the parts arrived timely, and the price was right. Thanks.
I took the front panel off the machine and then removed the two screws that held the top on. Cut the hose clamps off the hoses and replace the injector sleeve, valve, housing, and hose to tub. I am not sure what the function of this is, other than to inject air into the water before it goes into the tub. Very easy to do if you know how to open up the washing machine.
This clothes washer is 35 years old and runs like a champ. I did notice a bit of water below the left rear and assumed that a hose was leaking. I let it go for about 6 months, until I could fit it into the "to-do" list. During that time, the hot/cold water intake valve died. I ordered the replacement hot/cold valve a month ago but noticed, upon removal of the valve, that there was significant water drip evidence around the electrical valve solenoids. The water drips caused the valve to die. Drips came from a clogged injector hose air break directly above the valve. Replaced all hoses and water level vacuum air line. Very easy process. The front drops off with two screws. The lid is off with two screws. All hoses easy to R/R. It took about 2 hours to complete. All replacement parts were perfect. My belts are fine so I'm ready for another 30 years of service.
After reading the description of the problem and finding the source of the leak I decided to buy the parts suggested. To begin: 1. Unplug and turn off water valves at the wall.2. Unscrew the two front phillips head screws that hold the front of the machine on. Pull off the front facing panel of the washer.3. There are two hex head screws that hold the lid on. Remove these and then the lid can be lifted to see the nozzle and the valve. 4. Unscrew the pipe clamp that hold the valve on to the pipe. 5. Take out the old valve and nozzle.6. Use water or soap to lubricate the nozzle and valve before replacing.7. Install the new parts and reinstall the pipe clamp. 8. Replace the lid and the screws.9. Replace the face cover and the screws.10. Plug in the machine and turn on the valves and test. I tested the machine and thought I could save the water and run another cycle later. This is a bad idea. The water fills up and over the top when a new cycle is added because there is no water level sensor. If you decide to test it and need to empty the water instead of wash a load you can turn the dial to spin and it will drain your test water.Best
Your website is wonderful. I read another womans account of how she fixed her machine and then I just followed her instructions...how cool is that!
First I took all the screws out of the side and back cabinet, then tried to pry off the top, after breaking a couple of clips, saw that the front came off with two screws at the bottom, then removed, then two hex head screws to hold on the top, then lift top and saw that the injector was clogged and leaking out the top. If I had read the repair section first, I could have saved alot of time by not removing all the side and back screws. This would be a simple 15 minute job, if you follow the repair guide. Just cut off the clamps, stick in the injector and holder , reclamp and reassemble the washer.
The washer leaked only when i used warm or hot water. I found that the rubber injector valve would get to soft when using hot water,allowing the water to leak through and bubble out and onto the floor. I went ahead and replaced the injector nozzle, injector sleeve and the rubber injector valve. I ordered the parts monday morning and they arrived the next day. Excellent service.
Removed two screws from bottom of front cover. Raised front cover to disingage clips and remove. Removed two screws to release top cover. Propped top cover up with mop to allow access to injector site. Removed two clamps to free injector sleeve, nozzle and valve from inlet hose. Installed new clamps, sleeve, nozzle and bracket. Lowered top cover and tested for leaks. None found. Reinstalled top cover. Reinstalled front cover. Washer back in service.
This repair started because I wanted to clean the lint build up out the exhaust vent. But when I moved the washer out, the tile floor was buckled from water damage. So I removed the old tiles and coated the cement with waterproof paint and sealed the seams of the baseboards. Then before reinstalling the washer I had to locate the water leak. I looked at the water inlets and the faucets and saw (and felt) nothing wet. Then I started the wash cycle and looked for the drips. I found them on the left side coming from under the unit. I removed the water inlet plumbing (two screws hold it in place) from the back of the washer but there was no leak. Finally I removed the front panel and could see water running down the side and coming from near the top of the machine. This was right behind the water inlet unit and I thought that one of the hoses was leaking. To get to that area I then removed the top casing and found the injector port was leaking, not the hoses. To remove the front panel I had to take out two screws at the bottom of the panel. To remove the top I had to remove 4 screws...the two rear screws were easily accessible but the two front screws were inside the unit and the one on the left had restricted access because of the electrical unit installed there. After the replacement parts arrived it was relatively easy to remove the front and top again to gain access to the injector port. I removed the old nozzle and valve and installed the new parts. Then I started a wash cycle to check that the leak was fixed. The water did not leak so the repair was successful.
I was lucky to find a youtube video that showed every step. The hardest part was removing the front of the machine only because the screws were a little tough to access. Part replacement was quick and easy. It saved me approx $150.00
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