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PartSelect Number PS11738906
This injector tube seal is just over an inch in diameter. It is black in color and made of rubber.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Removed two screws at bottom of front panel and then removed front panel. Then removed two self-tapping bolts (one on each side) holding top panel in place and swung the panel up, out of the way, to expose top of tub and water injection components. Cut off one pinch clamp and loosened screw clamp holding two injector hoses to the injector sleeve. Removed these water injector hoses from injector sleeve assembly which is mounted on top of left side panel upper flange. Replaced deteriorated rubber injector valve, nozzle and the sleeve for the injector (plastic housing containing the injector valve and nozzle). Also replaced deteriorated injector tube seal where injector tube elbow mounts to top of tub assembly. Reinstalled injector hoses with a replacement screw clamp to replace the one cut off. tightened the new clamp and the other, original, screw clamp and checked for leaks. This solved the leakage problem. Secured top panel and re-installed front panel. Hardest part of the task was determining where the leak emanated from but once found and parts ordered, it was a relative snap to fix.
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Unplugged power cord then disconnected the water supply and drain hose. Removed 2 screws and took the front panel off. Laid washer on it's side and posistioned the transmission with the cover facing upward. Removed the hex head screws then used a razor knife and a putty knife to remove the silicone sealant. Found that the agitator shaft spring had broken and fallen into the housing jamming the gears that's used in agitation. Removed the oil and all broken pieces of the spring. Installed new shaft spring, replaced the oil then applied sealant to the cover and screwed the cover back down. Let the washer stay in the same posistion for about 18 hours to let sealant dry completely. Then I sat the washer back on it's feet and removed 2 screws that holds the top lid in place. This allowed me access to the tub cover where the injector t is located. Installed the injector t along with the injector tube seal. Connected the hose and hose clamp. Then I put the lid back down and secured with the screws. Connected the water supply and drain hose then the power and selected a wash time and observed the operation. Everything worked ok so I put the front cover back on. Note: I had used the injector t from this washer to fix another washer that an appliance dealer had given me to use for parts to repair the one just described above. That was the only thing that was wrong with it. It was used for about a year and a half and it developed a problem in the spin cycle. Appears to be a brake problem. I intend to repair it as well.
Your website is wonderful. I read another womans account of how she fixed her machine and then I just followed her instructions...how cool is that!
First I took all the screws out of the side and back cabinet, then tried to pry off the top, after breaking a couple of clips, saw that the front came off with two screws at the bottom, then removed, then two hex head screws to hold on the top, then lift top and saw that the injector was clogged and leaking out the top. If I had read the repair section first, I could have saved alot of time by not removing all the side and back screws. This would be a simple 15 minute job, if you follow the repair guide. Just cut off the clamps, stick in the injector and holder , reclamp and reassemble the washer.
Remove front panel of machine, 2 screws at bottom. Remove 2 bolts at top front with nut driver and whole top can be lifted to expose all parts. Remove injector hose clamps and clamp new hoses in place. I replaced both injejctor hoses while open although only one had small hole in it. This is the only repair done on this coin-op machine in 20 years. At this time I did replace both drive belts but they could have run for more years, no cracks or breaks in belts. This machine is in a 12 unit apartment building. We have two on them, same age. We purchased both coin ops newin 1987.
Watched the video first that was offered. Stating what tools needed size of socket needed. Step by step and how to do the job. Which was very helpful.
I removed the front of the washer and lifted the top. I could see the water was leaking from injector nozzle. I looked online at PartSelect.com, found my model and make. Looked up the defective parts and ordered them. They came in three days. I installed the parts in about 20 minutes and it worked fine.
remove the front and opened the top, removed the old parts and added the new plus a new clamp that I purchased from the local store. I'm a single mom, one income so doing repairs myself is very important. The parts came when promised and it cost me about $23.00 where a repair man could have charged me well over $100.00 just for the parts.First time I used this website or ordered parts, I will definitely do it in the future.
Remove fron cover raised lid slightly and moved it slightly to the right exposing injector and hoses. replace one hose and installed new injector and clamps. Problem solved.But what needs to be said is that the PARTS SELECT Website made it easily to identify the parts needed, fair pricing, way lower than local Maytag dealer, and exceptional speedy delivery (basic delivery option).
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