None of the surface burners (two Uni-burners) would light without using a match. I first ordered two replacement PS2089818 top burner spark electrodes. I replace one which was very easy - the electrode just clips into the burner - and I traced the wires down to the back bottom of the stove where I found they plugged into an ignition module. The new electrode didn't help, but since all four burners were out it made sense that the ignition module would be the problem and not the two separate electrodes. So I ordered a new ignition module. It plugged in easily with the terminals well marked like the original. I put the original electrode back in and all four burners now light properly with the desired "tic tic tic" sound with the knobs in the "high/light" position.
- the fan/light switch was still functioning, but it fell into the cavity underneath, after years of use, heat and grease caused it to weaken. - 4 wires came off the old switch, and went on the new one with ease. - the only complication was in getting the clips off of the old ones, and getting the new clips onto the new one. otherwise, a piece of cake.
First I removed the four torx screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Then I installed the new element in reverse order. Recycled the cardboard box and the old element.
Removed the 4 screws on the bottom of the panel, lifted the panel out and up to clear the uper part of the panel. Removed the screws from the left and right switches, which hold the bracket of the clock, marked the wires of the clock and removed the wires. Installed the new clock in reverse. The power to the range was off.
oven would not work proplerley & rocker switch sticking
I took the control panel loose and dropped it down . Then removed wires one at a time and changed out the oven control switch. You better not start pulling all the wires off unless you can read a wireing diagram. I changed the rocker switch while panel was dropped down.
Seal was badly damaged on door of 24 year old range.
Removed two screws near the hinges and removed door and laid it on counter. As we removed screws from each part of the door, we stacked the parts in the order removed. Tossed screws into a shallow pan for safekeeping. Removed old seal and put new one in its place. Reassembled parts in reverse order as I cleaned each one. Put door back on the hinges and the job was done. Would have been a much quicker job, but door had 24 years of dribbles down in it, and needed a good cleaning.
We ordered a new element also, as the old one had blown up. Very gratifying to know there were still parts for my favorite old range.
I first bought an oven thermometer to check temperatures at different levels. Temperature was about 10 or more degree off. I next looked at the manual and found you can make an adjustment to the temperature knob. This didn't make a difference. Decided I would replace the bottom heating element. I ordered and got the element in a matter of days. The hardest part was loosening up the screws on the bracket for the old element. Thus the use of the vice grip came in handy. My oven is 20 years old!!! I'm sure I saved my husband a couple hundred bucks worth the repair guy.
My thanks to "Part Select" for making the process so easy to order and get a replacement. The repair guy finally called yesterday. Five days after I repaired the oven myself.
toggle switch for fan/light had melted from a hot pan placed on it (presumed)
Installing the new switch was EASY. However, removing the old switch was very difficult due to the nuts holding the switch in place being designed as clamps not threaded screws and nuts.
Unplug and pull range away from wall. Remove metal panel from back of range by using nutdriver to remove 4 screws. Use phillips scewdriver to remove 2 screws holding old spark module. Unplug 4 wires from spark module and note placement of wires for reinstall. Install new module by reversing procedure. Slide range back against wall and plug in.
Entire process took less than 30 minutes.
NOTE: Spark Module received from partselect.com did not match old part exactly. The screw holes on the new part did not line up with screw holes from old part. I reinstalled new part with just 1 screw. Was told by partselect customer service that the part I received had been substituted and would work fine. It does work but it did not fit correctly.
First, cut power to the range at the breaker box. I removed the jenn aire vent grill; removed two phillips head screws holding the switch bracket assembly and removed the switch assembly. After making a diagram of wiring, removed 4 bayonet type connectors. Next carefully remove the pushon nuts and save. Remove defective switch and discard. Install new switch on the two metal prongs over the black metal bracket making sure to orient correctly - use wire diagram and compare size of bayonet lugs for proper orientation. Push on nuts. Reconnect four wire bayonets; place switch assembly in proper position. insert and tighten the two phillips head screws that hold the assembly in place; replace vent grill and turn on power at breaker box.
Only problem was that new pushon nuts were too small for the jennaire metal prongs. Good thing i saved the old nuts!!