The stovetop gas regulator kept clicking in off position.
The spare part came within two days after I place the order on line. I drew a simple wire diagram of the faulty switch-regulator. Shut off the power to the stovetop, before removing the four terminals on the faulty switch-regulator. I pushed the old regulator up from the center pin and replaced it with the new regulator. The next step was to reinstall the four wire terminals using my wire diagram. Final step was to turn the power back to the stovetop and test the new switch-regulator.
Simply removed the front burner using 1/4 incn nutdriver on two screws.placed new burner in position and tightenwd two screws. Simplest and easiest job I ever did! Works as new!
Removed the two screws that hold burners on mounting bracket . Removed burners and installed new burners. re-adjusted air flow to elimenate yellow flame.
Disconnected power from the stove. First I removed the down draft vent cover on stove top, then the two screws that held the switch plate in place, then used a wood chisel to pry the switch housing retaining washers off. Removed the remains of the old switch, Installed new switch, attached wires, and reinstalled switch plate. Placed vent cover on stove top and reconnected power.
After getting help from customer support, I was able to order the part. I tracked the part on FED EXp. After deliver the part was installed and working in 5 minutes. All that for less than $50.00.
After a lighting storm the oven would not work it kept blowing the range fuse it was determined by a friend it ws the selector switch
first removed the four screws that held the panel in place, tthen unscrewed the actual switch itself. I then pulled the wire, one at a time from the old switch and pluged the wire in to the new switch. upon completion I tested the oven selector switch and secured the switch in place, then replaced the panel. And I'm up and running again!
Togle switch that turns on the fan or oven light was broken
Turned of electrical power. Loosen two screws that held the stove top part that held the switch. Disconnected the old switch by removing the two clamps that held it in place, made sure wires were connected correctly on the new switch and used the new clamps to attach the switch in place. Put everything back together and turned stove power back on. Everything worked as it should.
fan/light switch was melted due to a hot pot placed on top.
removing the vent grid on top, by lifting off, then taking out the filter screen. removed the 2 screws on the back of the switchplate, then slide it back. made a drawing of the color wires and which way the switch faces... (it matters) I took off the the old press-nuts by just breaking them with needle nose pliers. removed the old switch, fitted the new one (paying attention to where the little prongs and big prongs were on the old switch. used the nut-driver to press on the new nuts that came with the switch, and hooked back up the wires, and put it back.
One 25 yr-old burner was beginning to leak gas because of corrossion. Decided to replace all 4 burners.
Remove grates and pan. unscrew each burner from the metal cross mount bar, keeping in mind, the position of the cross mount bar.(Mine was not reversible.) Reverse the procedure with the new burners. Adjust the air opening to eliminate any yellow flame. The air opening is located immediately adjacent to where the burner pipe goes into the cooktop. (Near the front of the cooktop in my case.)
Biggest problem was making sure the correct parts were ordered.
I raised the top of my Whirlpool Continuous Cleaning Canning Oven, then had to unscrew 3 screws and a lock nut, then raise top about 4 inches, so I could put my hand inside to unplug the wires to the switch, and push it through the hole in front, of oven. Then put the new switch through hole and plug in new switch. Then screw down top; and close lid. Part #866294