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Fan/Light switch worked for fan but not for light
The job was easier than I thought it would be. Turned off power at breaker first! Used phillips screwdriver to remove 2 fairly tight screws located on the vent side of the switch mounting plate. Flipped over plate and wrote down the 4 spade tip wire colors and location on switch. Removed the wires from the switch and removed the switch by prying off the locking washer with a sharpened/filed thin putty knife to get under it and then a flat blade screwdriver to finish removing it. Put the new switch in, hooked up the spade tip wires, mounted the plate back on and turned on the power. Worked great and I even impressed my Wife!
Fan switch on top was broken off inside outer housing rendering all controls useless, worst of the fan.
Cut power! Removed old switch.Only problem was new switch had shifted the four 'spade' connectiors on back so when I was done fan and light switch was crossed.
Everything PartSelect had on their site was perfectly correct.
REALLY appreciated the way PartsSelect handled everything, I will be back for further help on other things.
Housekeper broke knob several years ago and left that burner out of service.
I eventually searched online for a supplier and ordered the replacement knob. Ordering was easy and delievery was quick. Replacing the gas valve knob was easy; just slid it in place. Now all 4 burners are available for cooking again.
Housing of fan switch broke causing the switch to be inaccessable to use
After accessing the switch and removing the wires(four wires as the rocker switch operates both fan and oven light) I attached the wires to the new switch. However , I was unable to mount the switch in place as I could not get the spring - clip type of fasteners to slip on. Fortunately, there was space to drill a hole on each side of the switch and I used brass machine screws and nuts to hold the switch. The round-head screw tops show on top of the stove, but at least the new switch is in place and operating.
I had a service guy come in and he told me the repair would be $550.00. I asked for a part list and did it myself. You guys saved me hundreds of dollars.
Removed top plate, disconnected old switch... Had to go to hardware store to get different push washers - the ones supplied with the part were too small. connected switch... tested connections and replaced top plate.
removed blower housing secured to floor with two screws then removed flexible vent pipe from blower housing then removed blower removed blower wheel and motor put new motor and wheel on put back on stove thats it..
Front burner wouldn't light because hole burned in metal tube that channelled gas to burner
So very easy!!!! I'm a 70 year old grandmother with a small socket set - and that's all I needed! Removed one small screw, removed old burner, popped new burner in, replaced one screw, and back in business! Placed order, received it in 2 days, fixed burner. So much faster than calling a repairman!
Much to my horror, what was described as a simple, 15-minute replacement, took 3 days! In order to replace the oven door gasket, I had to disassemble the entire door. Every photo I saw of the gasket showed it as a flexible part: gently pull out the old one and push in the new. What I received in my order had a frame. In order to replace it, I needed to unscrew the door parts. Unfortunately, I made a few rookie errors, primarily because I kept thinking the next screw would release the gasket frame. So I neglected to keep track of the screws I removed, and I didn’t take any photos! I must have used half a roll of masking tape to keep parts together; I did not have 5 hands! When I released everything and nestled in the frame, I had even more trouble replacing all the screws I took out. The majority of holes did not line up. So I just did the best I could, put in as many screws as I could. But after three days of working, I finally finished. It all held together, and the door did what it was designed to do. Really a repair horror. And I am not an incompetent novice!
30 year old stove, w/ completely worn out oven door gasket. Replace grease filter.
First Inserted 2x4x 36" length of wood behind the spring loaded door hinges to ease removing the oven door as I worked alone (this was recommended in a previous post and was essential when working alone, TY). Removed 2 retaining screws on the interior side of the door at the hinge locations. Slid the door up an off the hinges, moved door to a cloth pad protected work bench. Took the door and glass panels apart removing all the related screws, retaining clips; taking note of screws, retaining clip and panel locations for reassembly. Removed the insulation, removed the glass window pack, and removed of all rust fragments (dust) between the 2 glass window panels. The glass window pack metal molding retainer, on the oven interior side of the glass window had completely rusted away. Removed the existing oven door gasket. Cleaned the glass door window pack, and interior side of the oven door surface. Installed the new gasket, which fit very well. Tightened the loose door handle screws. Reassembled in reverse order all door components noted above, and replaced the door onto the hinges, fastened the 2 door hinge screws, removed the 2x4x36" wedge holding the hinges in the open position, and closed the door. Job complete. Thanks to previously posted directions as a good guide. Hope this helps as well.
Fortunate to have the replacement parts available. Wish a replacement door window pack was available, as the double glass, metal edge seal is deteriorating, and the metal molding retainer that held the glass in place is completely rusted away on the oven side of the existing window pack. Plan to find heat resistant caulk to seal the glass in the door, in lieu of the metal molding glass retainer.