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PartSelect Number PS884734
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
pulled the washer out and replaces the top roller system on both sides and the replaced the weels and brackets on the bottom drwaer. however i had trouble putting the dish washer back correctly and had to call a repairman to adjust the dishwasher and alighn it to open and close properly. but i did do good inside. i feel it was easy and a success. thank you for having the supplies for us to attempt to repair it on our own.
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Inside the oven, I removed one Phillips screw on each side where the element mounts to the back oven wall. Then disconnected the wire on each side using pliers. Unscrewed glass lens, unscrewed light bulb. Replaced all pieces in reverse order. Took less than 10 minutes.
My husband replaced the bake element in moments. We couldn't get the broken light out of the socket because we couldn't locate our needle nose pliers. After a few days I finally got tired waiting and found a small pair of pliers in the house and got the remains of the bulb out and screwed it in, and plugged it in and we're in business!Never wait for a man to do what you can do yourself! I was so pleased that ordering the parts on-line was so easy and I didn't have an expensive repair bill to pay!
My Hotpoint gas stove was not operating at normal temperature. This was operating in a basic range of 125 - 100 degrees below normal. After going through numerous troubleshooting posts, I came to the conclusion the sensor was my first place to check. I did not want to drop $100 for a sensor if I did not need to, therefore, I decided that I needed to know how many ohms the sensor registered in my stove. The sensor need to be 1100 ohms and after using my digital multi-meter,( Analog meter would do for this job as well) sure enough the sensor did register 1100 ohms. I then started troubleshooting other components such as igniter, gas values, etc... All resulting in everything testing out good. That is what really puzzled me. Other posts of people having similar symptoms as my oven always came back to the sensor as the problem. Then I noticed that the cleaning temperature of the sensor needed to be 2600 ohms or somewhere in that range. Therefore, I heated up the oven and tested the temperature of the heated sensor and my sensor registered 1650 ohms. I concluded that the sensor tested good at room temperature, however when heated up, it was not registering correctly. I took a chance and purchased the senor, installed the sensor, which was quite easy and only reqired removing a few screws inside the stove, removal of back panel, and unconnecting the wire attachments, and the oven now operates as new, and just in time for Thanksgiving. The really great thing was that I was a hero in the eyes of my wife this Thanksgiving.
Everything was easy. I read one of your other reviews and it gave me the confidence to try it myself. First i toke off the cap at the top of the door then the three screws. I lifted the door off so i could be sure the cam was my only problem then put the door back on. That took 5 mins. Then I got on the computer and ordered the parts i needed. Two days later the parts arrived and and i took the door off again. Then put the new cam on, applied a litle vasiline, put the door back on and forgot that i ever had a problem. Thanks for the help. Doug Arau
It was a "snap" to repair diswasher wheels(snapped off the old and replaced witht the new ones) and bumpers(heated them in hot water first so as not to break them before snapping them into place)! Oven rack simply needed to be placed into the oven. Hardest part of this project was replacing the light bulb. Removed two screws that held glass lens/metal frame in place. Twisted bulb left to remove it. Glass bulb released itself from the metal base instead of coming out as one piece, so I had to disconnect the power source, then get plastic handeled pliers to remove the metal base that was still inside the socket. Once that was removed, the new bulb was placed into the socket, power was reinstated and "wa-lah!" there was light in the oven again! Hooray!
Removed the bulbs and replaced
Some screw not easily accessible. I broke the ice dispenser mechanism but could glue it back so everything fine for now.
Inside oven, remove two screws that hold element to back wall, pull element out three or so inches to get to wire clip connections, unclip wires, remove bad element, put new element in in reverse order of taking out bad element, just that simple. Also this site was so easy to use, plus the shipping time was unbelieveably short, even a company service man couldn't have been that quick, or as reasonable. Thanks a bunch!!
I pulled off the oven door, took out about 7 screws, removed part, cleaned everything, replaced part, all done. very easy.... wife's happy......
I removed the door by opening partially and pulling upward. It was a little heavy and you should make sure you have somewhere to put it. I removed screws and reinstalled the handle into the new door trim that had broken. It gave a great opportunity to clean the oven.I then unscrewed the temp sensor from inside the oven and removed the back panel of the range to unplug the wires. I plugged in the new wires and tightened the screws.The light bulb was easy. I pulled off the cover and unscrewed the old and screwed in the new. It was a lot of screwing and unscrewing but 3 easy tasks all the same.
I removed the back lower panel within the freezer compartment. The cooling fan which draws cold air from the evaporator unit was functioning fine. I then unplugged the unit.The evaporator unit was frozen in a block of ice. I removed all food contents from both the freezer and the refrigerator, moving them to a back-up refrigerator. I then allowed the radiator to thaw completely overnight. Upon restarting the unit it became cold within an hour thus I new the compressor was fine. I surmised it must be a defrost issue. I then unconnected the defrost heater and thermostat assembly. The device was easy to remove. I then routed the wire of the new assembly on the side of the evaporator unit and clipped the thermostat back onto the cooper feed, plugged the unit into the connection. Next I turned my attention to replacing the adaptive defrost timer. In the top of the refrigerator compartment, I removed the plastic shroud, by sliding back and pushing the plastic clips in. I took out 4 screws holding the unit to the ceiling of the refrigerator. Slowly lowering this, I could see the adaptive defrost timer in the right rear corner. I simply unplugged the unit and replaced with a new unit. I replaced both items although I am unsure which was not working. Refrigerator is working fine now.
Removed the ice brucket,Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.
Removed all screws on the door that retained weatherstripping, removed weatherstripping and inside of door. Inserted new weatherstripping, lined up inside of door and loosely re-installed screws. After minor alignment adjusting, went back and tightened all screws. Replacement part was a perfect fit.
To repair the light socket which was not functioning, I identified and followed the instructions on part-select on you tube. I unplugged the refrigerator, cleared away and removed the shelf below the housing for the light. I reached up under the plastic light protector with a screwdriver and popped up the tab on the front holding it in place. Then I easily pulled out the defective socket. I reversed the process and popped the new one in to replace the old, screwed in the light bulb, put the shelf back, plugged the fridge in and was finished. This took only about 5-10 minutes. To repair, and replace the dual inlet-water valve, I pulled the refrigerator out and removed all the nuts protecting the back at the bottom. I unplugged the fridge and turned the water switch at the wall to off. I once again had identified the problem by the symptoms on part-select, ordered the part and watched and followed the repair on part-select on you-tube. There are a variety of nuts and bolts to remove the protective housing and then get to the water inlet valve unit at the back left bottom side. It doesn't take long. I unplugged the two electrical lines holding the water inlet valve in place, I unscrewed the bolt in the center on top and the two valves underneath that are the three water lines from the water in the refrigerator back to the unit and on to the ice maker. I replaced the unit as instructed and started to reconnect the hoses. At that time, I noticed that the hose from the unit to the ice maker was a little brittle at the end. So, I suggest you check all your hoses as well when you identify the same problem. I decided it would be best to replace the hose as well and ordered the ice water hose from part select. I left the water off and put the fridge back. The ice maker hose replacement came quickly, in 2 days. Then I simply pulkled it out and replaced that ice water line in about a minute, reversed putting back the rest of he screws that hols everything in place, closed up the unit, plugged the fridge in, turned on the water valve at the wall and put the refrigerator back in to place. This process, if uninterrupted, would take about 30 -45 minutes. Everything is working good as new now. I probably saved myself at least 150 dollars, had the satisfaction of fixing it and learned something myself about how the whole thing functions. Part select is a find!
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