MLE2000AYW Maytag Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Removed the door and front panel with ease. Then came the spring and cable. People who say it was easy are not telling the whole story. Removing the spring was okay except for it flew across the room. Putting the new cable on with a pair of needlenose pliers did not work for me. I had to get a spring tool like you use on brakes on a car. Once I had the tool and secured the cable in place with a piece of wire I got the spring on. Everything except the spring took about 15 minutes.

UNPLUG THE UNIT First, I removed the 2 screws from bottom of the front panel. I removed the panel and disconnected the switch wires. Next, I removed the 4 bolts from the front tumbler support with a socket. I removed the tumbler, but left the belt inside. I cleaned up the inside as much as possible and removed both support rollers with a 1/2 in. straight wrench. (Save the nuts.) I removed the clips to reuse with the new shafts, attached the new washers and rollers, and resecured the shafts in place. Next reset the tumbler with the belt slacked over the back support. Let the tumbler rest on the blower pipe to allow slack to bring the belt over the tumbler and around the drive and idler wheel. Then, set tumbler back into rear seat and reattach front support and panel. I tested the unit before attaching the front panel. Works great!!

I removed the screws from the back, ( top ) then i removed the door, then the front cover.. then the blower shroud, then the front tumbler. and the drum after that it was easy, This was easy to work on.

So he had cracked the fliter lip, So for Christmas I bought him a new filter and a dryer kit that sucks out the lint in the hard to get places. He won't be thrilled as a Christmas gift but the smirk on his face will be fantastic...

Removed two screws at bottom of front cover and removed it.Pulled tub forward about 8".Removed nut on back of roller assembly and removed it.Replaced wheel then put back together.

Unplug unit from wall. Removed front cover,2 screws at base. Removed clip holding roller on shaft. Then realised front drum support would have to be removed,4 hex head screws. This allowed drum to be moved forward toward front to allow removal of roller an installing new one.

I extracted the stuck and torn filter out of the dryer and installed a new assembly acquired from PartsSelect. The part was ordered easily from their catalog and received at my door in a couple of days. Easy job, thanks.

It was nickle and dime. 2 screws off came the front cover. Turned the mechine around unbolted the shaft, installed the new one, done.

i order all my part from part select.com because thery are fast on my part and have good brand

Took off the back and replaced after replacing belt and spring

First, take off the door. That lets you take off the front panel. Remove three screws on each side and take out front panel that holds the drum in place. Be care full there are wires in the lower right corner. Reach your left hand in under the drum and undo the belt off the pulley. pull the drum strait out.A 7/16 wrench behind the roller shaft will remove shafts.I'm not a rocket scientist and it only took me an hour and fifteen min. PS The rollers are not bearings, so I could have let them scream for probably months, before I fixed it, . Good luck

I had previously removed the front cover to try to identify source of squeak. I suspected drum support roller, and found WD-40 on roller stopped squeak for a while, but it would return. I ordered replacement roller and shaft. To repair, I removed front cover, then front support piece holding tumbler, then pulled out the tumbler (after pulling off belt). I was able to remove shaft snap pin (after buying tool), then old drum support roller, and finally shaft with wrench. I screwed in new shaft, inserted new roller, and replaced all parts. Getting the belt back on in the right way was a little tricky. I would reach under tumbler with right hand and pull on tensioner with pinky while pushing belt around drive pulley with thumb. I first had belt running through the wrong path so it made a bad noise. I fixed that, then shortly it came off idler pulley when running. Finally I got it on, apparently correctly, as it now seems to work fine, and more smooth and quiet than I ever remember. You have to lean close to even tell its running. Very happy now!!

I won't get into too much of the tear down, as others have already given, in great detail, that information. I will say if I had not read the other repair information, I would not have known to replace the tensioner wheel, otherwise called the Idler pulley wheel and bearing. After using some machine oil to grease the shaft, I replaced the Idler Pulley wheel and the belt, and rebuilt the dryer. Runs as good as new.

We went to Lowe's to look at a new washer/dryer set. We told the sales lady what our dryer was doing, she said she had that problem before and told us it was probably the rollers had gone bad. The next morning, 5 a.m my wife couldn't sleep so she took the dryer front off, pulled out the tumbler and found the rollers, the lady was right . My wife already had your web site pulled up on the computer so I could look to see what parts I needed. We called to order our parts, we were told it would be 2-5 days before they would get here, they were here the NEXT DAY!!! That was awesome!! I put the new roller on, my wife put everything back together, she turned the dryer on and.... it was so quiet we weren't sure if it was on so I opened the door and held the button to watch it turning, peacefully. Thank you all and the sales lady at Lowe's for saving us $1200. We did our repair with your parts and only spent $85.00.

First - I did some research on line as to the possible problem with this dryer.
I had already taken the front apart before, so I knew what was needed to remove the door and front.
Remove the 2 screws that hold the dryer door in place with a Phillips screwdriver. Remove the two screws on the opposite side of the door also. Place the door out of the way. The front panel of the dryer now tilts forward. The front panel sits on two clips, tilt forward and lift out of place. The door switch has two prongs that hold it in place, pinch the prongs and the switch slides out. Disconnect the two wires on the switch and connect the wires to the new switch. The new switch slides into place. I tested the new switch before I put it all back together. Took me no longer than 15 minutes.