Models > MAV6200AWW > Instructions

MAV6200AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for MAV6200AWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MAV6200AWW
46-60 of 335
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Washer was shaking and noisy, wasn't spining fast and overall running poor.

  • Customer: joseph from columbus OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
The hardest part of this is the springs. The best way to disconnect and reconnect was to tilt the tub towards the spring I was trying to work on (thus putting less tension on the spring and cutting down the distance). I took a large boot and jammed it into the oposite side wall to hold it in a tilted position before I disconnected the spring and then redid that to reconnect using a vice grip wrench. I replaced all three things, snubber, brake roto and stator and it went back together very easily. The key on the pully shaft was hard to reattach but there was a trick to that as well. The shaft has to move up slightly to slide ring on so you need to have something under the tub to help raise it. After that was back together it was 15 mins. to finish and now the washer is running like new.

Washing machine beat itself to death during spin cycle

  • Customer: John from Cumberland MD
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 12 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Removed front cabinet, removed 6 springs holding tub down, removed pump hose, removed drive belt from motor,lifted tub out the top and placed upside down, loosened all six hex bolts(did not loosen or remove drive pulley) backed all six bolts out and left 4 threads showing, slipped old snubber out cleaned all surfaces with alchohol and slid new snubber in. Put corn starch on base where snubber rides, lifted tub back in, hooked up all six tension springs with auto brake tool.put belt back on...done..no more beating itself to death.

High pitched screech from brake at end of spin cycles.

  • Customer: William from Lithia FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I disconnected and moved the washer into the garage for optimum work space. Then I opened the top panel (by releasing the two retainer clips between the top and front panels with a putty knife inserted approx 2" in from each side) and taped a spacer block between the back of the tub and the back panel of the washer, to keep the tub from moving toward the back when the washer is tilted.

Then I tilted the washer back against my 2 1/2' high workmate bench (backstopped against the wall). After adjusting the tilt angle to provide adequate access to the bottom of the washer and insure it was was beyond the forward center of gravity, I began the repair.

Working from the bottom, I first removed the drive belt. Then the white dust cap, shaft retaining ring, plastic cam, pulley, and the various washers and bearings leading up to the brake assembly, making note of their order.

Then I removed three of the six 1/2" 10x24 brake stator retaining screws at alternating positions replacing each with one of the three 2" 10x24 screws I had previously purchased the hardware store. Then I removed the three remaining 1/2" screws, and slowly began to remove the three 2" screws alternating a few turns on each in rotation to evenly ease the 200 pounds of pressure from the brake rotor spring.

When the pressure was released, I removed the old brake stator and rotor and placed the new ones on the shaft, then re-compresed the brake rotor spring with the three 2" screws in alternating positions. Then placed three of the original 1/2" screws in the threee open positions, then replaced the three 2" screws with the remaining three 1/2" screws.

Then I reinstalled the remainder ot the parts in reverse order of removal.

Screaming under the washer

  • Customer: Anthony from DeKalb IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Placed the washer on 2 brick under the front. Removed the belt, used a straight blade screw driver for the lifting of the top off. reoved 2 bolts off the face and removed the screws of the water pump. Water pump was messy with smelly water but a bowel and a towel helps. Placed the pump on, reversed the tear apart...placed the belt on the bottom. Removed the brick under the front. Hooked up the water supply...plugged in and did a load..it worked perfectly....Thanks!!!!

Noise during spin cycle

  • Customer: CHERYL from HUDSON NH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Noise loudest during spin cycle. Wash cycle showed transmission was ok. Pump shaft loose in housing. Fix was just as described. Tip washer up, lift belt from pulley on pump. Remove rear panel access. Remove hoses. Un-bolt pump. New pump does not have metal base plate, it fits directly to base of washer. Bolt new pump to base in same orientation, attach hoses, tip washer up and slide belt back on to pulleys. Move belt by hand to check function. Reconnect washer to utilities and begin fill. Check for leaks at hoses. Replace rear panel cover.

Washer would not agitate

  • Customer: Gerald from Spring TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Remover agitator/Auger assembly. Install new agitator/auger assembly. Washer still would not agitate. Called repairman and found the transmission was bad. Fortunately transmission was still under warranty. 10 year warranty on transmission.

water pump was noisy

  • Customer: Patsy from Brookfield, MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the front panel, Removed the belt from pump in the back of machine. Removed the pump from the back of machine, Put the pump in reconnected the belt, Replaced all the screws. My husband did the repair work in a matter of 45 minutes. Machine works fine now. The part came when I was told it would. I am very pleased with your service.

Washer leaked water on the floor. Seal nut assembly rubber and o-ring were worn out.

  • Customer: Kevin from Houston TX
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 11 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Overall, this repair should have been quite easy. The problem was removal of the old seal nut assembly. It was a bear to remove, and ultimately I had to surgically remove it from the washer in pieces. Unfortunately I broke the outer tub (plastic) in the process of getting the nut off. Once I had the silly plastic nut off, and the tub repaired the balance of the repair was absolutely easy.

My summary: This repair is really easy IF the plastic seal nut assembly comes off easily. If it doesn't budget easily, go ahead and chip it apart to get it off, being careful not to damage the threaded part of the agitator shaft. The new one will completely replace the chipped away nut.

peice worn out, not letting washer cycle after filling

  • Customer: Anthony from DeKalb IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Other peice broken or worn out. Poped old one off and new one in......YAHOO!! back to washing clothing again......

Washer completely stopped and would not run.

  • Customer: Alan from Carrollton GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
My timer was not working properly, it had to be turned to start each cycle and it would not move to the rinse cycle after the wash cycle - but it did run. I did not want to put out $70 or $80 bucks if I could make it work - but then it completely stopped. (The washer got off balance due to the load and would not run, after bouncing around on the floor.) The washer was getting power, since the pump would work and it would fill with water - but would not start the wash cycle. I ordered a new timer and put it in, which was pretty easy. First you unplug the unit, you don't want to get a shock. There are three screws on the back of the control panel that are removed with a phillips head screwdriver. The panel is then leaned/titled forward and the four plastic fins pull out of the slots, make sure you tilt it forward as you remove it and do not break off the fins/pins. Unplug the old timer and remove one nut holding it down. In order to remove the timer you have to remove the knob on the front. To do this you have to pull the small cosmetic cover off of the front of the knob - which you can pop off with a small screwdirver - it is in the very center of the knob. Once the small cover is off there is a small clip, pull it out and the knob will come off easily. Pull the timer out of the back of the control panel and put the new timer back in, plug in the timer and put the nut back on to hold it. Replace the knob, clip and cover on the front. Push the fins/pins back into the holes, replace the screws and you should be ready to go once you plug it back in. In my case it still would not run and my problem ended up being the lid switch. I figured this out by holding the button down with a pair of pliers and the washer started. I knew then that the switch needed to be adjusted. When the machine got off balance, the bouncing caused the lid switch to get out of place. I had to remove the control panel again and the lid, which is held on by two clips, that are easy to remove (only need to remove one), carefully put a small screw dirver under the clip and lift it up, then pop it off. You can then adjust the button, which has two parts, the switch and the push rod. This was the hardest part of the repair. The switch is not really put in well, looks like it should pop in to the slot, but would not allow the swith and push rod to work together. It sits on top of the opening. It took several tries to finally get it back right and adjusted with the push rod in the right place, but once I got it adjusted, replaced the lid, put the control panel back, plugged it in - it ran like a top. The new timer runs until the cycle is complete.

Screeching on Spin cycle

  • Customer: Andrew from Bronx NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
I found your site and looked at possible "symptoms" of the problem. Went to my washer propped it up with a 2 x 4 and manually spun the belt and sure enough the pulley on the drain pup was shot and grinding metal on metal. Ordered the new pump with pulley and a new belt (might as well change it when I had the thing in pieces).

1) Opened the front of the machine and then propped up the machine.

2) Placed a pan underneath to catch the water that remained in the pump when I disconnected the two hoses attached to it.

3) Removed old pump with socket wrench

4) Replaced with new pump purchsed from you all.

5) Reconnected the two hoses.

6) Installed new belt.

7) Closed up machine and BAMM! works like it was brand new!

You all Rock! Cost of parts and 20 or so minutes of my time is a lot less than calling a repairman or replacing the machine!

Thanks for the help!!!

Squealing noise in spin cycle this did not fix it!

  • Customer: Ron from Oxford MI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
This was easy except for the e-ring which was extremely difficult to remove. When I put the new one on I filed down the bottom of the front edges to make it easier to slide it on. Beware: If you have the washer tipped back against the wall when you do get the e-ring off everything will come sliding off the shaft all at once and go everywhere. These parts are covered with black grease and made quite a mess so you might want to have someone hold them in place so you can gently slide them off one piece at a time.

Loud noise during the spin cycle

  • Customer: John M from Saint Paul IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 14 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
Repair was made by viewing on line video and owners manual. Once the machine was apart, the brake spring was the only tricky patr. Under a lot of pressure so be cautious. old bearing was removed and the new bearing installed. Machine reassembled. no issues.Thanks !!!

The timer would quit in mid cycle. Spin did not drain the water in Permanent Press or Delicate cycles.

  • Customer: Dale from Benton LA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 9 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I opened the front of the machine. The clips had rusted. One broke and the others were very difficult to work with. I pried the panel open with a large screwdriver. I took the back panel off to access the water pump. I removed the back panel on the electricals to access the timer. To replace the timer I pried off the decorative cover. To get the knob off you have to squeeze in on the timer split shaft while pulling out on the know. This was the second hardest part. (The front panel access was the most difficult). After that the timer clip is easy to loosen and it slides a littel then pops out. Electrical connection was obvious. The motor sping was the next most difficlt part. The spring fits on the rear part of the motor which is most easily accessed through the rear panel used for replacing the water pump. The water pump has three screws holding it and two hose clamps that come off easily with a pair of pliers. Before removing the water pump, I had to tip up the machine and take the belt off. This was also pretty easy. Put it back together and works great again on all cycles.

Machine growned when washing, brake was slipping

  • Customer: Daniel from Sugar Land TX
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 10 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Tried to remove brake stator with machine tilted back. Thisforced the stator off center. Removed the 6 holddown springs, water level hose and drain hose. Pull drum & transmission out of the case. Placed the drun on the ground, brake facing up. Replaced the short screws on the brake stator with 2" screws one at a time. Caution the spring has 200 lbs of force. Used 2" screws to back off spring. With spring tenshion released replace parts. Reversed proceedurer. Machine quite. Wife is happy.
All Instructions for the MAV6200AWW
46-60 of 335