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PartSelect Number PS11739438
This washing machine drive belt is used with some clothes washers. This belt is all black in color and is made entirely of rubber.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Lay washer on front, removed belt. Removed center pulley with thrust bearing (pulley was worn on upper end, against thrust bearing, thrust bearing was worn also). Installed new thrust bearing & pulley kit. Cleaned & lubed slots that motor insulators slide in, installed new belt.
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First, I looked at the site for instructions on what was wrong, it explained in full detail what and how to remove and replace. We called a local Maytag dealer and told them the part number that the site told us to order and they told us we needed a whole new motor with the plastic motor pulley. they told us the part does not come separate, so we went back to the site and ordered a $6.00 part and paid a small s/h charge and when it came in we went back to the site to see how to put it back together and the instructions were perfectly awesome. The $6 part is what we actually needed not the $178 complete motor that the dealer told us we had to buy. Thanks for this wonderful site it saved us lots of money. this is the 3rd time we order from this site and the instructions we correct all 3 times, I would recommend this site to all who has a home with repairs! Thank you for putting a well useful site together.
I brought the wash machine out side, hooked a garden hose to the cold, capped the hot, took off 2ft. square back inspection cover, and plugged in the power cord for a test for leakage location. The hose from tub to pump had a small wear hole, thus leaking water on the belt and making it slip more. When my parts came in from Parts Select the repair was about 45 mins. with coffee. I laid unit on side, cleaned pulleys with rag to remove old belt fragments, and I put new belt on the 2 small pulleys then rolling onto last bigger pulley. For the hose repair- I used a screwdriver to push in the clips under front of top lid. I removed 2 screws with my 1/4 rachet to remove front panel. With my channel locks I pulled off hose , then installed new hose. The unit works great.
The washer (bought 9 years ago) suddenly started squealing (metal on metal sound) during the spin cycle. After turning the washing machine off and unplugging it, the washer was tipped back and propped up on a milk crate to see the belt on the bottom. There was some rubber dust from the belt, so something had seized-up to some degree. The belt was removed and each pulley was tested to see if it made any noise. Upon spinning the pulley of the water pump a scraping sound was heard. Definitely not as loud as when the washer was on, but it probably would have been if it was spinning faster.The washer was put upright again and the lid taped to the top to secure it before lifting the top. The top was opened by sliding a putty knife between the top and front panal near the left and right corners. There are two metal clasps that will release the top with gentle pressure, do not pry on the top. The top was lifted up and set back gently so as not to bend or break the hinges. There are two small screws on the upper inner right and left side of the front panel that were removed using a nut driver in order to remove the front panel.With the front panel removed the water pump was visible in the front, lower left hand corner on the base. The two hoses were removed from the pump by moving the hose clamps up the hose, using pliers to loosen the clamps and then pulling off the hoses with a slight twisting back and forth. I put a few towels around the pump before removal to soak up the water that came out. The three bolts holding the pump in place were removed using a socket wrench and the pump removed. The new pump was replaced, hoses were put back on, front panel replaced and the top relatch. The washer was tipped back again to get to the bottom to put on the new belt.That was all. It worked great.Notes: 1) Several people had mentioned having similar problems with the water pump and had observed a metal ring that had been pushed up where the pulley is connected to the shaft. I also observed this on the sqealing pump. The metal ring seem to work its way out and scrape on the metal mounting plate on the bottom of the pump. So if you see this ring, it is probably the pump.2)I cleaned the pulleys since there was some rubber dust on them. Also you can remove the belt easily by pulling it slightly off the large pulley and then turning it off. When putting the belt back on, put it around the small pulleys first and then start it on the large pulley and turn it onto the large pulley. More leverage with the large pulley.
First tip front of washer up about six inches and block. Removed belt by holding the old belt to the side of the big pulley and turn big pulley on opposite side with the other hand. Old belt was dirty, black and some carbon on floor. Cleaned up. Put belt around motor pulley and water pump pulley. Hold belt in track of big pulley. Turn big pulley with opposite hand until belt goes around the big pulley. The motor has a spring that maintains the tension. Wife thinks everything is back to normal. Get a cool drink out of refrigerator while she carries on and thinks you are a hero. Special note: Be sure water is out of washing machine. There are instructions on the internet but I have owned Maytags for over forty years and know belt replacements are occassionally replaced.
I found your site and looked at possible "symptoms" of the problem. Went to my washer propped it up with a 2 x 4 and manually spun the belt and sure enough the pulley on the drain pup was shot and grinding metal on metal. Ordered the new pump with pulley and a new belt (might as well change it when I had the thing in pieces). 1) Opened the front of the machine and then propped up the machine. 2) Placed a pan underneath to catch the water that remained in the pump when I disconnected the two hoses attached to it.3) Removed old pump with socket wrench4) Replaced with new pump purchsed from you all.5) Reconnected the two hoses.6) Installed new belt.7) Closed up machine and BAMM! works like it was brand new!You all Rock! Cost of parts and 20 or so minutes of my time is a lot less than calling a repairman or replacing the machine! Thanks for the help!!!
Placed the washer on 2 brick under the front. Removed the belt, used a straight blade screw driver for the lifting of the top off. reoved 2 bolts off the face and removed the screws of the water pump. Water pump was messy with smelly water but a bowel and a towel helps. Placed the pump on, reversed the tear apart...placed the belt on the bottom. Removed the brick under the front. Hooked up the water supply...plugged in and did a load..it worked perfectly....Thanks!!!!
i did the repair by the instructions that you had on the web site,and i thank you for all the help you gave me.
The washing machine would shake very loudly when spinning.Found red oil under machine. Asked experts, they said "buy new machine, not worth repairing transmission".replaced small oil seal and drilled small hole and added some transmission oil(auto) then sealed hole. replaced belt just because the other one was oil soaked.Works great, Like new, cheap fix under $20..
On this particular model #MAV7550AWW Maytag washer, you do not remove a back panel since it is a three sided case. I first disconnected power and hoses from wall. Removed the belt from under the machine (you need to tilt the machine). To access the water pump you need to remove the front panel by first sliding a putty knife between the top of the machine and the panel slide it in about 2 inches from the edge to release the latch, repeat the procedure on the other side. On the inside or the panel about 2 inches there is a nut on either side once you remove both the front panel unlatches easily, from the bottom two latches. The water pump is located on the right front of the bottom plate. it is held in by three nut screws, (have plenty of towels to catch the water that is released once you disconnect the two hoses that are on the pump. The replacement part (made in the USA) is all plastic but fits perfectly. We Replaced the pump and reconnected everything. There is a video here on this site the explains in detail the removal and placement of the drive belt. The job is very simple to do. I am a woman under 5ft and I did this repair with the help of my son (17yr old). The machine is good as new. Second repair I have done on the machine and with a lot of savings!.
I had diagnosed the problem by checking the resistance at the water inlet electrical terminals and their was no continuity. 1. I shut off the water and removed the lower access/kick panels. 2. Then I disconnected the two wires from the inlet valve terminals noting which one went to which terminal (I'm a bad person since I did not disconnect power from the dishwasher while doing this so it is up to you to decide if the time saved is worth the possible consequences). 3. Using an open end wrench I loosened and disconnected the water supply line. 4. Remove the two screws securing the valve assembly to the inside wall of the dishwasher 5. Loosen the clamp on the water outlet line and slide off the hose. Installation is pretty much the same in reverse. Some times the valve assembly comes with the wire terminals oriented in a different direction than what you may find when you take yours off. If it won't work for you, remove the four screws that hold the electrical side of the inlet valve and rotate it to the needed position. Make sure when putting it back together that you tighten the screws evenly to prevent leaks.
I removed the screws to loosen the belt, took off the old belt and put on the new belt. Tightened it up and has been working ever since. Thank you, Lesteryou guys ship faster than anyone else. One day I order the part and a day or two later there it is. :)
I knew it was the belt because of all the noise it was making. I ordered the belt and it arrived real fast. I pulled the washer away from the wall and tipped it back at about a 45 degree angle against the wall so I could get under it. I propped it with a bucket. I then pulled the old belt off and spun the new one on. Real fast & easy.
unpluged the machine , turned off the water .removed as much water i could by hand ,with pan & towels .Removed the front panel , tip machine on back feet & prop up .removed belt from under the machine , take the drain hose off pump , remove pump .installed new pump , rehook hoses , install new belt & motor pivot spring .put front back on lower machine turn water back o n , and plug back in .
My Maytag Atlantis MAV7550AWW does not have a side inspection door like many have posted. After taking most of the washing machine apart I noticed in the front between the top lid and the main body there appeared what looked like some type of clips. I used a butter knife and pushed the V clip back and the one side of the top lid was released. After doing the other clip it was clear that was how to access the motor etc. After the top was open, it's hinged by a plastic hinge, you will need a small wrench and have to move the tub to the side to take off two small nuts also in the front. 8mm I think. Then the entire front of the machine comes off and the pump was right there. Time to remove and install the new pump was 15 minutes. I replaced the belt at this time also but had to lay the washer on it's side. Put the belt on two of the pulleys and pull hard. You will see that one of them is a spring held tightener. I did this outside on the deck as you will have water in the hoses and pump. After all was hooked up I ran a wash cycle only to hear that screeching sound was still there. My best guess is that it's a tub motor going. I am just going to use the washer till it dies then get a new one.
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