ERS2022DABB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

First I removed the vegetable drawer and glass shelf. I matched up the 'new' drawer slide rail next to the broken slide.
I then used a phillips head screwdriver to remove the 2 screws that held the slide in place.
After removing the broken slide rail, I installed the new rail, replaced the vegetable drawer and glass shelf. New item worked like a charm.
The drawer slide arrived really quick after my order was placed. Approx. 2 days after ordering the part, it was on my front door step.

used pliers to break revit,installed new shelf left side front is held by screw with phillips head and the back is connected by revit installed new revit.

My husband did the repair, and even though our refrigerator is roughly 20+ years old, he was able to adapt it to work in all the right spots and we now have ice cubes! I'm very happy we did not have to spend $2000 on a comparable refrigerator.

The existing light switch was very hard to remove. I ended up having to grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it out. Once it was out, it was very easy to put in the replacement and it seems to be working fine.

The hard part of this repair is moving the refrigerator away from the wall and cleaning all the dirt from the fan, condenser and area. Removing the old water valve takes about 5 minutes. Be sure to shut off water completly at the wall. I removed ea. water line one at a time from old valve & installed in new valve at the same time, to keep in order. Very easy to remove electrical connectors, one at a time and clip to new valve in proper order. I put some teflon tape on the main water connection & reconnected water line to valve assembly. Moved valve assembly back into position and installed with one screw. Installed the back cover with 5 screws, moved the refrigerator back and checked for water. The water dispenser works better than new and so does the icemaker. Thanks to partsselect.com for the help.

First I replaced the double valve because the ice maker was not filling with water. It still did not work. Then I replaced the ice maker itself. This worked and was relatively easy to replace. I had to use the water fill "slide" from the old ice maker. The new one was too narrow and it leaked water into the freezer.

I removed 6 screws, unplugged assembly that had motor attached,removed from fridg,replaced motor and reinstalled assembly, putting back 6 screws.works like new.
thanks.

After a little research I realized my problem could be one or possibly two components of three that caused the problem. Instead of changing one at a time, I took another approach. I just bought and changed all three to save time and prevent having to do the job all over again. Each time I would have to melt the ice off of the cooling coils and this is time consuming and annoying having to melt the ice repeatedly. I put a very accurate thermometer in the fridge and have been monitoring it since I changed the components. After one week it seems to be working fine keeping the fridge at 34-38 degree F.

I slid the old ice maker (which was rusty) out of the freezer. I emptied the ice cubes. I unscrewed the 3 screws holding the plate to the old ice maker. I attached the original plate to the new ice maker/ auger unit with 2 screws. The new icemaker assembly did not match up with a 3rd screw hole. The 2 screws seem to be holding securely.
I reinserted the new assembly. Shorly after this nice clean ice cubes began to form. Works very well!

The Ice maker would not run through a cycle. It would fill with water and produce ice but would need a little help by pressing up on the ejector to run through its cycle. Otherwise, it would not bring the ice to the holding bend. Sometimes the water would not fill. The icemaker was making ice it just was not letting the ice maker run through its cycle so I figured it had to be the circuit board. I bought the circut board which was easy to install.
1) Turn off water line and unplug power.
2) Pop off front panel plate at ice cube select switch area.
3) Unscrew 4 screws that holds control panel housing in place.
4) Remove panel assembly by disconnecting two different wiring plugs.
5) Unscrew 2 screws that allows access to control circuit board at end cap.
6) Remove circuit board by sliding it out of the assembly housing.
7) Install new circuit control board in assemble housing and screw on end cap retainer.
8) Attach two electrical wiring plugs.
9) Install control board assemble housing into frig opening and secure with 4 screws.
10) Install front panel plate (pops on).
11) Plug in power and turn on water line.

I used the same steps as described in other descriptions listed here. Since I was changing the hinge assembly on the freezer side the difference I discovered was that there was a nylon water hose inside the hinge assembly that I did not at first know how to remove. I finally called a repairman I happened to know and following his instruction simply snapped the hose loose where there was a connector and placed a cloth under it to catch the moisture that drained. Having done that, the rest of the assembly went just the same way as the other instructions listed here said that it would. Door now functions like new.

Replaced flapper

Removed cowling unpluged timer and pluged in new one.
Great Service, got part in one day

Unplugged refrigerator.
Disconnected inlet water line.
Disconnected outlet from leaking valve.
Unplugged electrical connections.
Reversed with the new part.

Plugged it back and there were no more leaks.

Take the back panel off inside of freezer side. Cut the wires off old Defrost Thermostat and strip the ends. Attach the wires of the new one and tighten with wire nuts. Put back panel back on.