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The Ice Flapper warped and clogged up the Ice Shoot
I bought a Flapper replacement part from Parts Select. I installed it following their very complete on-line video directions. Their complete and easy to follow directions made my job very easy, and the work was completed without any problems and just as good as if it were done by a professional repair person. I am proud of my work, it couldn't have been done without their video insructions. Also I got delivery of the part within two days of my order. I will alway look for Parts Select any time I need an applicance repaired. Thanks to Parts Select!
Procedure for Replacing the Ice Chute Plate 1. Turn off the power. 2. Snap off the outside trim ring. Use a plastic screwdriver to avoid scratching the cabinet. 3. Locate the three small holes below the control panel facing, just above ice chute. The center hole is not used. With a small, blunt, object (wire – blunted nail) that is slightly smaller than the holes, push up rather firmly up through the outer holes to release front control panel. 4. Remove the three wire connectors from printed circuit board. Firmly pull/pry them straight out of retaining clip. Use caution: Excessive force will break clips. 5. Release the secondary panel by removing four screws (one in each corner). 6. Remove the flap assembly. 7. Clean all accessible areas with 1/10 bleach water to sanitize. Rinse the cleaned area with clear water and thoroughly dry everything before re-assembling the panel. 8. Install the new flap assembly. 9. Re-installed everything in the reverse order and check the functionality. 10. Order a spare ice chute flapper to be ready for the next event.
I ordered the wrong part, the ice maker assembly, because your diagram was not marked properly. I returned the part and you credited my account. Thanks. Ordered the new bucket. It worked fine. Now I have ice and crushed Ice whenever I want. Thanks.
p.s. I didnt use any tools, but to satisfy you I select nut driver.
repair was simple removed glass shelf and removed the two screws holding rail in place. I was really amazed at the quick service that I had receiced, I ordered two of the same part and they had the instructions to send back the additional part in my email the next day. Thanks for your help.
First I propped up the door. Then I removed the 2 screws that hold the hinge on. AT this point you do need someone else because the door swings loose. I attached the new bracket and lowered the door. It went verey smooth. I ordered the new bracket after reading the installation stories from others who just repaced the plastic pieces. Its worth the extra money to just put on a new bracket
The original piece was already removed. installation required a little custom fitting as the mounting was slightly different and the copper tubing from the water line needed to be bent to fit. The push in plastic connection (output to the icemaker itself ) was simple ( I was a little leary of it not leaking.) I plugged in the solenoid connection first I attached both water lines and checked for fit. Made the adjustments and then screwed the bracket back on to the refrigerator. I could only install one screw but it holds it fine. I did have to trim the hard press board(cardboard) a little to fit the new valve. I believe the board is to protect against dust build up on the mechanical equipment (motor, condenser,etc)
It could not have been easier. The new part matched the old part exactly. I turned the water off going to the refrigerator, unscrewed one screw from the old part, pulled the electric plug loose, disconnect the copper water line from old part, cut off the black plastic tube next to the water valve going to the icemaker, and the new water valve was ready to install. It's that simple. I then took the new water valve, connected the copper water line to it, pushed the black plastic water line into its hole, connected the electric plug, and screwed the new part onto the refrigerater. In a matter of minutes I had water running to my icemaker again. I can't imagine the money I saved by doing this simple project myself. This took less than 10 minutes.
rerfrigator side not cooling After determinating that the defrost timer was running I turned it to defrost and watched tosee if frost started to melt. When it didn't I checked the heater with ohmeter, checked OK, so the only other component in the defrost system is the thermostat. Then just a matter of cutting and splicing wires and snapping the new thermost in place
I pulled the refrigerator away from the wall and turned off the water to the refrigerator and unplugged it from the wall. After removing the icebucket from the freezer I located the mounting screws, loosened them, unplugged the electrical connection below the icemaker and carefully removed it from the freezer. I unpacked the replacement icemaker, matched it against the original and attached the electrical connection adapter. Using the slots provided on the new icemaker I placed it over the mounting screws after aligning the water inlet pipe properly. I tightened the mounting screws while maintaining the icemaker in a level position. I plugged in the electrical connector. Then I replaced the icebucket, plugged in the refigerator back into the 110VAC outlet, turned on the water and repositioned the refrigerator in it's normal position.
The replacement single outlet water valve was not an exact replacement and required a slightly different mounting position. The original plastic hose to the ice maker attached to the valve with a plastic nut. The new connection requires only pushing the hose into a hole in the valve. Easy and simple. However, the new mounting angle promptly broke the brittle old plastic hose. I was able to pick the broken pieces of hose out of the valve with a fine point pick saving the new valve. If I hadn't been able to pick the broken pieces out of the new valve I would have had to order another one. Off to the big box store to buy new 1/4 inch plastic hose and a coupler. Repair completed and no leaks. If the hose hadn't broken, the I would have been done in 15 minutes. I suggest you plan to replace the entire plastic hose when you replace the valve.
I used pliers to pull lightly on the head of the switch, while I inserted a small flat head screw driver into the base of switch and gently worked around the edges to free it from the panel.
Solenoid was hanging creating an awful noise when dispensing ice
Unplugged the refrigerator. Removed the panel to the ice/water dispenser. Removed the cover that displays ice type/water and light. Removed the 4 screws holding the cover. Unplugged the wiring harness to the cover which allowed easy access to the two electrical connections to the solenoid. Removed the three bottem screws holding the solenoid in place. Loosened the top screw ( do not remove completely) and the solenoid slide down. Removed the solenoid arm that hangs on door latch. Install hang solenoid arm on door latch; slide solenoid up under top screw. Install bottom 3 screws to hold solenoid in place then tighten top screw. Reattach electrical lines to solenoid then plug wiring harness back into cover. Install 4 screws holding panel in place. Re-install two remaining covers.