304375-1-S-GE-WR57X10033        -Single Outlet Valve Kit
304375-1-S-GE-WR57X10033        -Single Outlet Valve Kit 304375-2-S-GE-WR57X10033        -Single Outlet Valve Kit 304375-3-S-GE-WR57X10033        -Single Outlet Valve Kit http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/GE/00006679i01.gif

Single Outlet Valve Kit

PartSelect Number PS304375

This single outlet valve has 1/4 inch compression fittings, and is intended for use with refrigerators that have ice makers that make crescent shaped ice cubes. NOTE: As per the manufacturer this valve has new quick connection. You must cut retaining nut off of the current plastic water line and gently push it into new valve. To remove, depress ring that the tube slides into.

This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Ice maker not making ice.
  • Leaking.
  • Ice maker won’t dispense ice.
  • Not dispensing water.
  • Compare At

    $27.14
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    $4.52
  • Your Price

    $22.62
In Stock
Fast Shipping Get this part fast. Average delivery time via regular ground: 1.8 days.

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.9 / 5.0, 37 reviews What's this?
1-5 of 37
 

326 of 433 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Socket set
Customer: Michael from Bradenton, FL

Ice maker not working properly and door seal worn

Two screws held the icemaker on. You do not even have to take them all the way out to remove the IM. Replacement of the water valve was just as easy except they (parts manufacturer) updated the flange nut with a compression fitting and it took me a minute looking at it before I realize what was going on. The door seal could not be easier, no tools just a few minutes of time

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24 of 24 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
Customer: Paul from Galien, MI

Icemaker fill tube and funnel icing up; no icecubes

The old fill valve was leaking water at a very low rate, sort of like a dripping faucet. Water was then freezing up in the fill tube and funnel areas, eventually causing the fill tube to push out of the grommet and allowing it to leak into the freezer's rear coil compartment. This resulted in a large icicle forming on the left side of the coils and defrost thermostat.

In addition to low icecube production, I also began to see excessively warm defrost cycles, due to the defrost thermostat being iced over. (Telltale signs--1.Ice cubes melted/frozen into a massive block in the bottom of the ice bucket, 2.Soggy frozen food boxes and soft icecream, 3.Water accumulating under the crisper drawers in the refrigerator.)

I ended up replacing the fill valve, which is about a 10min job, and also had to remove the icemaker and interior rear cover from the freezer compartment to de-ice the coils. This was a NECESSARY step as the freezer is not able to defrost and clear this amount of ice on its own. I used a small hair dryer, being careful not to get it wet. If you tap on the ice to break it up, don't use anything sharp. Just let it thaw--

My circa-1992 Kenmore fridge (363.9711780) does not show up at Sears Parts Direct anymore, but it's a GE unit, and in my case the parts were all listed in the owner's manual using GE "WR" part numbers.

Good Luck!

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23 of 25 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Single Outlet Valve Kit
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Screw drivers, Wrench set
Customer: Larry from Dallas, TX

Water appearing under refrigerator

Unplugged the refrigerator and turned off the water to the ice maker valve. Removed the water line at both ends (small crescent wrench). Removed the cover from the water valve area (two Phillips head screws). Removed the valve (two screws - small nut driver) and pulled off the two electrical connections.

Installed the new valve with the reverse procedure though the holding screws didn't line up with the existing holes in the refrigerator metal frame. I let it go with one screw holding ... didn't have a drill with me to make a second screw hole.

Replaced the old water line (from the wall to the valve) with a steel-reinforced hose.

Cut the female metal connector from the old water line up to the freezer and it fit nicely into the push-in outlet from the new valve. Turned everything back on and waited for the ice maker to cycle.
To my dismay, the leak had been coming from the plastic line that goes from the valve up to the ice maker. It had split, spraying water. Replaced that and everything works fine.

Lesson learned: Don't assume water near the icemaker valve actually is from the valve or its water connections. Watch the whole system cycle a couple of times to see what's really happening. Glad to have a new valve but the basic problem was the icemaker tubing.

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23 of 28 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Single Outlet Valve Kit
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: thomas from richmond, VA

Not making ice

when the ice maker runs through its cycle, you should be able to hear the solinoid valve open, letting water into the ice maker. this was not happening for me. you can dissconnect the plug on the valve and put the two probes from a multimeter in the plug and set for AC volts. when the ice maker runs its cycle, at the end you should see the meter jump as power is applied to the valve then turns off. this means you do have power to the valve so the valve is defective. turn off water supply to the valve, disconnect the water supply tube to the valve, remove the screw holding the valve, disconnect supply tube to icemaker then hook up supply tube to bottom of valve, screw braket back to refrig, install suppy back to valve, turn water back on and check for leaks and your ice maker should be working properly again.
these guys were really fast on delivery too!

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16 of 18 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: George from Islamorada, MD

Water leak caused by earlier tube replacement destroying retaining washer in valve

This was a simple parts replacement. I had replaced the cracked plastic tube a few weeks earlier and destroyed the retaining star washer inside the solenoid valve while removing the old one. It worked for a while and then started to leak when the tube had partially worked its way out. The star washer is not a replaceable part so this repair was simply replacing the valve with a new one. It is very straight forward - disconnect the electric plug, remove the old valve, insert the tube in the new valve (it goes through the plastic bushing in the valve - do not remove the bushing - it can easily be mistaken for a shipping plug) and reattach the supply line being careful to avoid kinking it. Reattach the valve, the electric plug and support clips for both the supply line and the plactic line to the ice maker.

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