A283 Maytag Washer - Instructions

First I took all the screws out of the side and back cabinet, then tried to pry off the top, after breaking a couple of clips, saw that the front came off with two screws at the bottom, then removed, then two hex head screws to hold on the top, then lift top and saw that the injector was clogged and leaking out the top. If I had read the repair section first, I could have saved alot of time by not removing all the side and back screws. This would be a simple 15 minute job, if you follow the repair guide. Just cut off the clamps, stick in the injector and holder , reclamp and reassemble the washer.

-determined problem
--verify that hose not clogged, screen filters clean then swapped cold w/ hot and verified that the problem was in the hot valve.
-Moved washer to get access to hot/cold valves
--opened access panel holding valve and swapped wires between hot/cold to verify that hot did not activate when it should
--Used voltohmmeter to verify that hot water valve had open circuit.
--Obtained replacement valve, installed, reconnected water lines and verified that hot and cold water worked.

took off front of washer , took off hose clamp removed old hose . replaced with new hose clamped back on put on front cover ran washer check for any leakes. done and done

I was lucky to find a youtube video that showed every step. The hardest part was removing the front of the machine only because the screws were a little tough to access. Part replacement was quick and easy. It saved me approx $150.00

All I had to do is tilt the machine to expose the bottom and replace the belts. It was fast, easy and the machine works fine now.

Easy video on Parts Select, then it still wouldn't work. The fuse behind the panel was blown, replaced that. And it was hero dad, I expect the bad water inlet valve blew the fuse.
Good Job, thanks for being there.

The repair was very simple.
1. Shut off water and disconnected the water lines.
2. Removed screws holding water valve bracket to wash machine.
3. Disconnected electrical connections and water fill hose.
Installation was reverse of removal. The directions said to use a small piece of rubber hose that was included in the package, but it was not necessary. Double check for water leaks before finishing installation.

The water valve on the cold side was making noise when cold water ran. I removed the screens but did not see a problem. I ordered a new valve and installed. The noise is gone and the water flow is back to normal.

At the time we did not realize the water flow had slowed.

It should have been extremely easy, but it was a little difficult because my laundry room is very small and I had extremely limited space to work in and also had limited lighting. However, after taking many minutes to strategically plan how to maneuver in the tiny space, I was able to loosen the giant clamp on the hose inside the washer and attach the new hose! It worked like a charm! My 25 year old Maytag is working again! The part came in a bag certified as a genuine Whirlpool part and looked exactly like the old one! No complaints! The online installation videos are wonderful!

I didn’t have special tool for brake but punch and hammer worked. Seal was easy to replace. Several videos online to show you how. It wasn’t worth it to tear apart the transmission and buy more parts/seals (if they were even available). But I didn’t know how much oil was in it. I drilled a hole in the side to somewhat check level and added 80-90 gear oil. It was almost empty and added almost a quart. Used a self taping screw/bolt with gasket sealer to plug the hole. I got 34 yrs out of this washer. If it fails, oh well. Just hate to buy a new one that only last 10yrs if im lucky.

Removed washer tubs inner and outer nut (part # 10 ) on inner was hard to remove and is a reverse thread used hammer to loosen once off removed 1st tub - then removed set screw #17 and then unscrewed mounting s item #29 this again required some hammer tapping to loosen - once off used flat head screwdriver to pry & remove the rubber piece on bottom of outer or 2nd tub -but keep going as the leak will probably be from part #20 tub bearing ( this will save you the time to test and find out it still leaks and have to take apart again after only replacing #29 removed 3 bolts holding tub - disconnected hoses and removed 2nd tub - used rubber hammer to knock out and install #20 tub bearing - reasembled and wow no leaks to cost about $120 - time worked on 3 hrs - only because took apart 2 times - down time on washer 10 days as we didn't order all parts to start with no beer needed but did enjoy a nice red wine - good luck

First removed the two lower screws from the front panel. I then unscrewed two screws holding the top(lid) of washing machine. I then lifted the lid and let it rest on its rear hinges. The syphon is removed by unscrewing four screws from the rear of the washer. I then cut the original clamp holding the syphon to the hose. New syphon was installed. Enclosed hose clamp was used to tighten around hose. Syphon was then then screwed back to the rear wall of the machine. Easy fix. Water leak solved.

This repair started because I wanted to clean the lint build up out the exhaust vent. But when I moved the washer out, the tile floor was buckled from water damage. So I removed the old tiles and coated the cement with waterproof paint and sealed the seams of the baseboards. Then before reinstalling the washer I had to locate the water leak. I looked at the water inlets and the faucets and saw (and felt) nothing wet. Then I started the wash cycle and looked for the drips. I found them on the left side coming from under the unit. I removed the water inlet plumbing (two screws hold it in place) from the back of the washer but there was no leak. Finally I removed the front panel and could see water running down the side and coming from near the top of the machine. This was right behind the water inlet unit and I thought that one of the hoses was leaking. To get to that area I then removed the top casing and found the injector port was leaking, not the hoses. To remove the front panel I had to take out two screws at the bottom of the panel. To remove the top I had to remove 4 screws...the two rear screws were easily accessible but the two front screws were inside the unit and the one on the left had restricted access because of the electrical unit installed there. After the replacement parts arrived it was relatively easy to remove the front and top again to gain access to the injector port. I removed the old nozzle and valve and installed the new parts. Then I started a wash cycle to check that the leak was fixed. The water did not leak so the repair was successful.

First I had to hold the balls into the little holes on the side of the lid - one at a time- and tap the plastic ball into the side with a small hammer. I did the same with the other side. Silde the lid to match the holes located on the washing machine - give a little push to make sure that the balls are in place. You have your lid fixed to your machine where you can lift the lid and it will stay up without falling.

Note: If the balls fall out - make sure to tap a little harder so that the balls stay in place.

My washer is apparently 37 years old. I bought it used in the 90’s and have had to do little or nothing to it repair wise. It started to make a loud squeal/squeak when the spin cycle stopped. I watched a couple videos showing the brake assembly, bearings and belt replacement and was able to find parts. However, one bearing appears to no longer be made (just repacked with heavy duty grease) and the special tool is nonexistent. I read others using a chain clamp vise to remove the brake assembly and bought a 20 inch chain clamp vise and a 3 set variety of vise grip pliers for about $20. They make an 18 inch chain vise but glad I got the 20 inch. I used two vise grip pliers to clamp chain around notch two notches that the specialty tool would normally grab. It was a cumbersome getting in there to whack the pliers with a small sledge hammer so I got a approx 18 inch 2x4 and cut a notch at the end to keep chain vise from digging into bottom of washer and whacked the end of the 2x4. Seemed to work ok and did the same to tighten back after replacing break assembly. Got it out back together and no more squeal.