Models > A112 > Instructions

A112 Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for A112 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the A112
1-15 of 479
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

water leaking from around center shaft below fixed tub

  • Customer: douglas from bonita springs FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
  • 304 of 314 people found this instruction helpful
My washer is 5 years old and water began to leak on the floor. I took off the front panel and filled the tub. Water did not leak immediately, but after the tub filled with about 3-4 inches of water, the water began to leak from a rubber washer between the fixed tub and the drive shaft. I looked online for exploded diagrams of Maytag washers, when I came across your site. By looking at your diagrams, I determined what parts I needed and ordered them. The parts arrived in 2 days, and I installed them. There were no leaks and it cost me under $70 (a repairman would have cost at least $250). The only thing I would recommend to those in similar situations, is to purchase a spanner wrench (your site does not sell, but others do). The stem seal and hub assembly is reverse threaded (clockwise to loosen) and is difficult to remove due to tight quarters in the tub.

Cold water valve only opened to a trickle

  • Customer: Brian from El Cajon CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 103 of 108 people found this instruction helpful
I started by unplugging the appliance and then shut off the hot and cold water faucets then I disconnected and drained the hoses. Next, I removed the two screws that held the valve assembly in place. I then pulled the assembly out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wire plugs. The last step was to loosen the hose clamp on the outlet hose and pull off the outlet hose. I reversed the steps to install the new assembly and the total repair took about 10 minutes.

washer would not start

  • Customer: Peter from Westbury NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 78 of 95 people found this instruction helpful
To see if the lid switch was the problem I first jumped it out and tried to start the washer. That was the problem. I removed the main controll so I could get to the lid switch. I made the mistake of removing the screws all the way out and the metal clip fell into the body of the washer, no problem since I was changing the drive beld anyway. I realized that you do not remove the screws all the way out, you just have to loosen them and then slide out the lid switch & then replace it.

Damper pads wore-out and had metal to metal contact which caused the washer to spin out of balance.

  • Customer: Steven from Rockford MN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 73 of 85 people found this instruction helpful
1: Disconnected all water and electrical connections.
2: Removed front panel.
3: Disconnected all wires leading from the control panel and removed the top of the washer.
4: Removed the springs that holds the drum down on the damper pads.
5: Flipped washer upside-down so the drum would hang from the bottom of the wash. This made it easy to clean the area since it was full of dirt and ground metal dust.
6: Glued new pads (per the instructions) to the cone that protrudes up from the bottom of the washer and allowed to dry.
7: Lubricated the pads with the provided grease and added additional silicon grease to insure smooth operation.
8: Replaced drive belt.
9: Flipped the washer back up-right and installed the drum springs.
10: Reconnected all wires and attached the top of the washer.
11: Reconnected all electrical and water lines and tested operation.
12: Replaced the front panel.

Washer now runs as quite and smooth as it did when it was new.

Front load washing machine leaking on floor while in fill mode.

  • Customer: Catherine from Wyandotte MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 66 of 67 people found this instruction helpful
Removed two screws at bottom of front panel and then removed front panel. Then removed two self-tapping bolts (one on each side) holding top panel in place and swung the panel up, out of the way, to expose top of tub and water injection components. Cut off one pinch clamp and loosened screw clamp holding two injector hoses to the injector sleeve. Removed these water injector hoses from injector sleeve assembly which is mounted on top of left side panel upper flange. Replaced deteriorated rubber injector valve, nozzle and the sleeve for the injector (plastic housing containing the injector valve and nozzle). Also replaced deteriorated injector tube seal where injector tube elbow mounts to top of tub assembly. Reinstalled injector hoses with a replacement screw clamp to replace the one cut off. tightened the new clamp and the other, original, screw clamp and checked for leaks. This solved the leakage problem. Secured top panel and re-installed front panel. Hardest part of the task was determining where the leak emanated from but once found and parts ordered, it was a relative snap to fix.

Drum would not drain and there was a banging noise when the drum spun

  • Customer: Charles from Whitman MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 56 of 56 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the 2 phillips screws on the bottom of the front panel. Then checked around to find the belts were actually below the floor panel.
I pulled the washing machine away from the wall and tilted it bacwards and found the pump belt was off the pully and the drive belt was badly damaged. I replaced the 2 belts which took no tools and about 3 minutes to accomplish then resecured the front panel, pushed back in place and leveled. Complete repair from diagnosis to back in operation took less than 15 minutes.

Washer wouldn't spin

  • Customer: Ben from Truro AL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 62 of 106 people found this instruction helpful
My washer stopped spinning, even though I could hear the motor running. I did some research and found out there was two belts, opened mine up and it was broken. I replaced the belt in five minutes, start to finish. Now it's running like new.

The bearing had some kind of metal (couragated) piece that worked it's way loose and was hanging up on the pump housing or retaing plate.

  • Customer: Kathy from Wellington KS
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 40 of 43 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the old pump,- disconetced the two hoses, and 3 retaining screws, sliped off the drive belt,. installed the new pump! simple!

Cycle didn't advance

  • Customer: Glenda from Seaside CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 37 of 46 people found this instruction helpful
Placed a towel on top of the washer.

Using a flat screwdriver, carefully removed black plastic cap from inside the dial. Gently lifted and slid out the small gizmo that held the timer knob onto the front of the washer. Laid the black cap, timer knob, and small gizmo on the towel.

Using a phillips screwdriver, unscrewed the 4 screws holding the front panel. Set the screws on the towel. Placed the front panel face down on the towel.

Removed the old timer by sliding out the three flat pieces that were part of the black coated wires that were attached to the old timer(two top and one underneath). They were hard to detach. Unscrewed the two screws that held the old timer in place. Set the old timer aside.

Replaced the new timer in the same manner as the old one came off. Slid on the three flat pieces, then screwed the timer on. Lifted the front panel and screwed it tightly. Put the timer knob back on and clipped the gizmo to hold it in place. Replaced the black plastic cap.

Discarded the old timer and kept the instructions for future replacements.

leaked water when agitating in wash cycle

  • Customer: Jonathan from Lavonia GA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 31 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the screws that held the side panels on at the bottom, then I removed the screws that held the front panel on and removed the panel. I removed the agitator, loosened the retaining nut with a hammer and a punch, removed the bolts holding the tub springs, removed the bolts for the top panel and flipped it out of the way. Then I removed the clamp for the inner tub and pulled it out, then I pulled the outer tub out. Then I removed the seal and scrubbed the rust off the seal mating area, then installed the new seal and re-assembled the washer. It works perfectly now and no longer leaks and it is over 20 years old. This is the first bit of problem we have had out of this machine, the lonely Maytag repairman commercials are true.

Cold water solinoid not opening properly

  • Customer: Erich from EastHampton CT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 28 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
I moved wash machine away from wall and unplugged from wall outlet. Shut off water, then removed hot and cold water lines from water inlet valve,removed screw from mounting plate and removed valve from wash machine. Checked to see if replacement valve was compatible (exact fit).
Unscrewed the two screws holding valve to mounting plate,unscrewed hose clamp and removed water line at top of valve (outlet). Removed the four wires from solinoids.Replaced the four wires onto the new valve as they were on the old valve,reattached water line onto the top of valve and tightened.Reattached valve to mount plate with the two screws and mounted back onto machine. Hooked up hot and cold water lines back onto valve and snugged with pliers. Turned on water checked for leaks (no leaks), and did a load of laundry. Super simple,well worth doing yourself.

For several years the washer has moaned and groaned while filling, and filled slower than when new. It seemed to be associated with the inlet water valves. Then, it began to leak water from time to time, with the frequency and amount increasing.

  • Customer: David from Macungie PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 28 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
I thought I had only a water valve problem - both the noise and leak seemed to come from the water valve assembly - but I had two. After replaced the water valve (a job which was easy to do as the assembly was easily accessed from the rear of the machine) the moaning stopped but I was surprised to discover that I had a stream of water pouring from under the machine.

I pulled the front panel (two phillips head screws needed to be removed) and raised opened the top assembly after removing two hex screws. (The diagram on PartSelect.com was helpful in understanding what I had to deal with).

I observed the fill action, and found that the water was leaking from the slots in the fill nozzle sleeve, in the water injector hose line. (The new inlet water valves had increased the pressure at the fill nozzle and increased the leak from that point which I had not suspected to be the source of the leaking water).

The basic problem was that the rubber valve sleeve had shrunk in length and was no longer flexible, allowing water to come out of the sleeve slots. I ordered an injector nozzle and valve and installed them in the original sleeve bracket in just a few minutes (two clamps had to be loosened, and the hose sections pulled back to insert the valve and nozzle assembly). (I had also ordered a replacement bracket just in case the old one might break, but it was not the correct part and the old one was fine.)

I checked for leaks and closed up the machine. Problems solved! It is now both quiet and leak-free.

(Moral, open the machine and check the nozzle for leaks - even if you suspect only the water valve assembly. The nozzle valve is located above the water valve and its leaks drop onto the water valve, making it look like the water valve assembly is the source of the leak.)

Washer sometimes stops before cycle is finished

  • Customer: Richard from Arnaudville LA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 29 of 35 people found this instruction helpful
The washer would either stop too soon or advance too slowly through the cycle. I ordered a new timer motor. It was so easy to install that I did it while I was on hold on the phone. Removed four screws on top to open the front panel. Two screws holding the motor and two wires for the timer. That was it! Put it all back together and it works fine now.
Our old Maytag washer has a new life!

washer stopped spinng

  • Customer: David from Hartford WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 31 of 42 people found this instruction helpful
I replace the belts - 5 min
I tried to replace the glides...I couldn't figure out how to do that..I took out the motor and and the glide mechanism...but I could not get glide braket separate from the motor mount..so i did not do this
I replace the springs and added 1 extra sping...3 instead of 2..it worked

Water was not being removed from the wash tub after the spin cycle

  • Customer: John from Fort Lauderdale FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 25 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
I loosened three screws to relieve the belt tension and removed the belt from the pump drive pulley. After removing the water from the wash tub I removed the intake and output hoses from the pump. I next removed the mounting screws and removed the pump. I attached the new pump loosely and re-attached the belt. I moved the pump to tighten the belt tension and tightened the mounting screws. I re-attached the hoses, filled with water, checked for leaks and replaced the front panel.
All Instructions for the A112
1-15 of 479