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PartSelect Number PS4704237
The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft. This seal is difficult to replace and should probably be installed by a qualified technician.
This part works with the following brands: GE, Hotpoint & Kenmore.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
I followed the instructions in the GE Consumer Service Training Technician Manual Pub. No. 31-10008. I also power washed the basket and tub before reassembly. The tub seal comes with the transmission and brake assembly so it's not necessary to order another seal.The agitator coupling kit contains a redesigned coupler and longer screw with new o-ring. I bought the hub nut, split ring, tub bearing, agitator coupling kit and washer hub because these are all the parts that go on the transmission shaft. I felt it was best to spend a few dollars more to replace every part involved with the spin and agitation of the washer. I used the channel lock and a hammer with a shortened handle to remove and replace the hub nut. Use caution as the nut is aluminum. The entire job took 5 hours.
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Removed front cover, Control panel, top Cover, slasher unit, all very smiple stuff. the hub was broken and the spinner basket came right out. One half Hub attached to Spinner, Other half attached to Hub drive shaft. removing the Hub nut was the hard part. tried impack & socket, No luck. in removal. Had to usr Hammer & Chisel and bust Old Alum. Nut off. Clean up and replace parts. OK. Had to remove water pump and clear debree that went in pump when spinner Hub broke off . the spinner also bursted a crack in the outer poly tube when it cam apart.. Sanded the dmage area and Patched with a good coat of JB Weld. machine is working Like new. The parts all worked Great. the break down Chart was a great Help to get the right parts needed. Thanks
Thanks to comments already summited to Partselect I was prepareed for the worst. Once I figured out that you remove the agitator assembly with a swift jerk I was able to access the lower portion of the tub. As others have found out the aluminum nut holding the inner tub can not be removed without a hammer and chisel. Once you get past that things go well. What is left is cleaning the components and re-assembling.
Used the repair instruction paper behind the washer control panel and used the online parts diagram. Also the online responces from other customer repairs gave me the idea to take a small pipe wrench (with a sock over the bottom of handle) and tap it with a 10 lb sledge hammer to remove the alumium hub nut. *** It is a backwards threaded nut **** I did not know I was going the wrong way until I looked at the new nut and noticed it's reverse threaded!!! After that it was just taking everything apart and putting it back the way you found it.
Based on other research, the location of the leak indicated that the main tub seal needed to be replaced. I took the washer apart before ordering new parts in case I broke other parts in the process and to be sure I could. I ended up having to cut off the Agitator Coupling and really marred up the hub nut. Those were the hardest 2 pieces to remove since they had corroded badly after many years of use. I had to use a pipe wrench and a hammer to remove the hub nut and a hack saw to get the agitator coupling off (air bell). $68.00 and 2 hours later, the washer no longer leaks.
Bought all of the parts to remedy this. It ended up being the top transmission seal/bearing which is not a replaceable part. I could see the shaft moving side to side. But the parts diagrams are not detailed enough to show that when assembled.She led a good life.My new side loader is SO MUCH BETTER AND INSANELY EFFICIENT. I highly recommend making the change if you need a transmission..
removed front cover the agitater then cover over large nut then large nut then inner tub then split ring and tub bearing then disconnected the hardware around the outer tub then replaced transmission then put back together in reverse order.
First and foremost, the job would have taken 2 hrs instead of 8 hrs. The problem was that no one on the help instructions said that the Hub Nut had a LEFT HAND thread and suggested to just break the nut off. Well, after chiseling off most of the nut I drilled small holes through the nut and removed the nut pieces. However; I learned that I had damaged the transmission seal and had to buy a new transmission $183. Had I known this the job would have taken much less time and at a cost of about $50.PS: The washer runs great.
The video with Steve is invaluable. I followed the video to replace the tub bearing. Had to jump over to the tub seal video to make sure I got it seated into the outer tub correctly. The tub bearing video skips past the seal part. Be aware that the video cut aways can be a considerable amount of time. Highly recommend a few things: 1) if you think you need to replace one of the things on my parts list (bearing, washer, seal, etc) then just replace everything at once. It's not worth it to try to reuse old nasty parts. All of the parts + 1 11/16 spanner wrench came to around 60 bucks. 2) get the washer out of its confined area and give yourself some room to work on it. I took the time to shuffle it out into my garage and setup a table to spread out the parts and tools. This procedure is a complete washer dismantle job. So take your time and be patient. 3) the aluminum hub nut is a bugger. I had to use penetrating oil and make a couple of small angled cuts with a hacksaw to relieve the tension between the nut and transmission shaft. 4) the main lower tub bearing (bushing) was also a bugger and all gummed up and rusty. Be very careful getting it out. You don't want to ruin the integrity of the outer tub cavity that it goes into. Light taps and patience using the butt end of a hammer and flat blade screwdrivers. From beginning to end, with a few breaks to let the penetrating oil do its thing, it took about four hours. I took my time, reviewed the videos throughout that time, and I've never worked on a washing machine before.
1. take the machine apart, since the noise comes when the barrel is spining, I just watch for anything that contact to the axel.2. without special tools, it was difficult to take off agigator, and a nut (that tighthened lefthanded).3. Once defect part found, seach online for the part supply to replace.
Worse machine ever made. Installed all parts per videos .they helped a lot. Inner tub went on crooked and first wash ruined inner/outer tubs top piece. Took to dump.
Simple R/R of oven element was easy. Washing machine was a complete teardown to the shaft to replace seal. Outer shell, tubs, motor and pump were removed. Was great to have exploded view of parts when it was time to reinstall. Parts were correct and fit perfect. Picture was not correct for the element but part was a match. Outstanding.
The hardest part is lifting the washer to get a the bottom. Disconnect the power, shut off water. Disconnect hoses and drain hose. Move washer from the wall about 2 feet. Tilt up front of washer. I used 4 12" long 8x8 inch lumber, lift washer….place one on each from corner. Lift again, place 1 more 4x4 on each existing 4x4. Now remove the belt off the 3 pulleys. Use the flat blade screw driver to remove the C clip holding the Pully on the shaft, with the flat bladed screw driver and hammer. Once the C clip is off remove the metal washer, pulley, plastic lock (apart of the bottom of the pulley & the thrush bearing and it's washer. Using the parts supplied (the "new thrush bearing is a bearing and washer combined) replace as you removed it. Thrust bearing, pulley, washer and, c clip. I tapped mine on using the flat bladed screw drive……becareful not to break it (they did supply 2 for me in the repair packet) make sure he c clip is secured. Lower the washer after removing all the tools from under the washer, by reversing the lift sequence. Slide the washer in place. Connect the hoses back up. Plug it in.Reconnect the drain hose, you should be good to go.
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