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PartSelect Number PS11739362
Also known as Rubber Seal.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
* Remove front Panel* Remeove two screws that allow the top to hing up.* Loosen set screw on agitator (1/4" socket)* Remove Agitator*Loosen spanner nut from mounting seal with hammer and punch remember to loosen, turn clockwise* Remove Inner Tub* Losen Mounting stem with Hammer and Punch- Remember to loosen, turn clockwise* Remove Boot seal with hands* Remove bolts from the three brackets that attach to the outer tub* Remove Outer Tub hoses* Remove outer Tub. CAREFUL, I cut my hands on sheet metal when outer tub broke free and came up* Knock Outer tub bearing out with large block of wood* Cut bearing sleeve off of the transmission with a drimmel tool and cutting wheel. It was siezed on and would not turn off. Also, first tried to chisel , but was too difficult* Cleaned area where bearing sleeve came off with fine sandpaper* Put small amount of non-permanent thread lock on transmission (bearing area) before installing the new bearing sleeve because the sleeve is not pressed on and I did not want it to turn freely* I did not but new bolts for the outer tub 3 brackets, but noticed that they needed to be sealed. So I bought some rubber washers at hardware store* I also used some stuff called CLR to clean some rust off of the outside of the INNER tank* I replaced the O-ring on the top of the agitator shaftAlso, on the agitator shaft: To really do it right, I probably should have changed the agitator shaft because the old seal wore grooves into the shaft. I took my chances and cleaned it up with some fine metal sandpaper. I could not get the worn grooves completely smooth, but did not want to take off more material as I thought it may cause a leak. We'll see* I just used a hammer and punch to retighten the mounting stem and Spanner nut. REMEMBER COUNTER CLOCKWISE TO TIGHTEN* This was not too bad if you are somewhat mechanically inclined. I could have got a new washer, but quite frankly, I get more satisfaction from seeing the old one keep working* One last thing...and this is mostly for the younger guys cause the older guys already know it. CLEAN EVERYTHING on the washer...make it look like NEW and tell your wife how much you saved. Make sure you have the parts and tools to do the job within a timeframe that you do not have to go to the laundry mat and do not leave a big mess. This advice will definately pay off.GOOD LUCK
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Were these instructions helpful?
Made a 4 prong wrench from a 2" pipe coupling to remove retaining nut. Had to tap retaining washer a few times with hammer and after that it came off very easy. All other work was very easy. parts went together with ease. Saved company several $'s as we were told it was not recomended to repair and should replace washer. Under $100 for parts and a couple hours labor.
lifted washer top, removed front panel, took punch and hammer to loosen collar (right to loosen- left to tighten) removed tub replaced seals and o-ring. then replaced the nylon retaining ring then reassembled. all works well now no leaks. Easy fix saved $500.00
I followed Dan from Mason OHIO instructions.They were perfect. I have a different series washer so I did not need the washer and retaining ring. I used 2 lengths of 4x4 to support the tub when smacking the bearing with the narrow side of a 2x4 to drive it out. You hit it from the inside of the tub. When installing the new one, use the wide side of the 2x4 to drive it flush.
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