XAV13PRBWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Removed the old part with a screwdriver & installed the new part. It took approximately 2 minutes.

Took off the upper back that had 6 screws with a screw driver. Found the lid switch . Removed it after I figured out how to remove it. It was a little tricky without instructions. Putting in the new switch was a little tricky also. You have to angle the front of the switch in, pop it in and then push it back so it can snap in. Once I put it in, the washer started right up. I was very happy. Instructions would have been very helpful. I am very pleased with this company because I received my switch in a couple of days. I will definitely use this company again.

Parts needed: Snubber Ring and 6 Springs (don't put the old springs back)
Unlug the AC cord, open the top from the front it snaps open with a little force and hinges on the back, remove the 2 screws on the front cover and take it off, tip the washer and remove the belt, take off the pump hose from the back It was not necessary to remove the back cover. Remove the little hose going to the basket from the control module. Remove the 6 springs and lift the complete drum out of the waser and turn it upside down. You can see the plastic snubber ring that is worn, loosen the 6 screws just enough to get the old ring out and the new one in. WARNING: DO NOT TAKE THE SCREWS ALL THE WAY OUT OR THE BRAKE ASSEMBLY WILL RELEASE AND A SPECIAL TOOL IS NEEDED TO PUT IT BACK. Seriously! Install the new ring, center and tighten the screws. Put the tub back in. I found it handy to support the tub with a 2x3 to get the springs back in. Connect hoses back up. It really isn’t that bad, a couple of scraped knuckles.

Took the back plate off, popped the old lid switch out and the new one in. Very easy. No problems, saved $100 buck at least doing it myself.

For this repair the tub must stay centered in the machine. I used a shim between the tub and front panel. Tilt the front of the washing maching aginst a wall and brace if needed. Remove the belt and pully. To remove the stator, I replaced 3 of the 6 bolts with a 2" long bolt of the same thread (replace every other bolt). This is needed because the spring is under 100# pressure. Remove the 3 original blots and than the 3 2" bolts. Remove each of these three a little at a time. Install the new stator and brake rotor. Use the 2" bolts in the stator to compress the spring. Reinstall the the other 3 bolts, pully, and belt.

1 I opened the top of the washer found the top plastic rim piece broken due to the fact that it cracked while unbalanced one time. Which made it leak which ate away the rubber seal . The parts were here fast and they were the right ones. Great job and I will tell everyone about you thank you verry much.

Followed directions from video on your site. It was very helpful. The snubber ring fixed the problem.

After just over ten years of use (purchased in early 2001), my Maytag Atlantis started making an awful noise during the spin cycle. The noise was very loud and sounded like metal grating on metal. Looking through posts on partselect.com, I identified the problem as the drain pump and pulley. Looking under the washer I could see that where the pulley connected to the drain pump the metal was starting to fall apart. I ordered the drain pump with pulley and a washer belt. The belt didn't look overly worn, but I figured now was a good time to replace it. The parts arrived within a couple days, faster than I expected. I opened the top of the washer by inserting a putty knife about an inch in on each side to release the top which then easily clam-shells back. I removed the front panel by removing two screws in each corner. Using a few blocks of wood, I propped the washer up in the front so I could remove the drive belt. The motor is spring-loaded and is easily moved to allow for belt removal. Then I removed the two tubes that connect to the drain pump. The drain pump was quickly removed from the washer; only three nuts hold it in place. The new pump/pulley went back into place using the same three nuts. After reconnected the two tubes to the pump, I installed the new drive belt. I put the front panel back on, and seated the top back in place. Anxiously I watched and listened as the washer cycled through a load. To my relief, the problem was fixed. All told, it probably took about 15 minutes to make the repair, and with any luck I’ll get another ten years out of this washer.

Lift the lid and remove the auto-soap dispenser using a coin to turn the four locks. You will see a cloths hanger diameter wire that is held in place by nylon segments. The right end of the wire goes through the right hinge bushing. This is the torsion rod that hold the lid closed. There is a bushing that is on this rod and that is the part that fits into the hinge bushing. Remove this rod assembly by first removing the center nylon segment. Then pull out and the the left on the left hand side of the assy. Then fish it out of the right hinge bushing. Pay attention to how it is removed so you can replace it easily. I then replaced the broken hing bushing by pulling the broken one out with pliers. The new one snaps in. Now look at the bushing that is on the far right side of the rod that fits into the right hinge bushing. It will likely by seized up and corroded. Clean the corrosion off of the outside and use a lube to loosen the bushing so it will revolve freely around the rod. Now put it back together and your problem will be gone.

very easy replacement. was probably broken for a year and only took five minutes to replace. Can't believe we waited so long!

I pretty much followed the video,and read some of the other comments on how to do it. I only had one problem, the back panel had an opening of about 14"x14" to access the 2 rear balance springs. I finally laid the machine on it's face,so I didn't have to kneel down.The only problem with that,is the tub falls forward, making the springs farther away from the upper hole to attach/stretch, the springs to remove/install. I cured that problem by cutting a wedge out of a piece of 2x4, and stuck it between the top edge of the tub & upper frame. Worked great,held the tub in position, closer to the springs & locating holes. Taking them off is no problem,installing them, was made easier by using the wedge. The parts were a perfect fit, no more 'walking away from the wall' now! Thanks PartSelect

This was a very easy fix.....roll belt off....roll new belt on....seemed to help not sure if it fixed problem....might try pulley and bearing kit next

First i unscrewed the bottom latch to check inside the maching, i then disconected the vertical style pump with pulley from its position and i discoverd a huge crack that was made by a loose pulley. After that i ordered another pulley from this web site easaly installed the pulley and now my maching works like new. The part was less than 50 bucks i saved over 200 bucks by not going out and buying a new machine.

On a scale of 1 to 5 (with 5 being the most difficult), I would rate this a 2 or 3. It is just a matter of knowing how to access the pump. First I unplugged the washer. Then used putty knife to push in clips to lift up top of washer (the clips are located about 1 inch in from each side). Used socket to remove the two screws holding on front panel. Disconnected the two hoses from pump using pliers to squeeze clips (be sure to have cup or bowl handy because water will come out of the hoses). Lifted up washer and removed belt from pump. Used socket wrench to remove pump and replace with new one. Reattached hoses and belt. Reattached front panel and closed the top of the washer. Everything was easy to access.

Unplug machine, lift about 6 inches to remove drive belt. Able to reproduce squeal by rotating pump pulley by hand. Remove front panel by using screwdriver to release retainer springs on either top corner about 1.5 inches in from corner, no need to remove control panel for this. Lift top panel to access screws behind front cover and remove (be careful here as sheet metal has sharp edges), lean front panel forward and lift off. Release hose clamps and remove from pump (hose clamp on discharge is spring type, channel locks work well here), keep towel nearby as there will be some residual water in the hoses and pump. Remove 3 bolts from top of pump to remove. Lift pump straight up to remove. Installation is reverse of removal, belt can be installed without tools (at least on series 10) as the motor pivots easily, place belt on transmission pulley first, then on pump and motor last this way you can pivot motor and slowly rotate motor pulley to guide belt on. Very easy repair, just take your time and you should have no problems.