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No Ice !
Real simple repair..just backed off the two 1/4" hex bolts holding the ice maker to the wall of the fridge,(a little tricky since you can't see them),unclipped the electrical doo hickey. I re-clipped the electrical do hickey of the new ice maker, hung the ice maker on the bolts and then re-tightened them. However,still no ice,my problem was the water valve on the back of the fridge behind the cardboard. Although it was still giving H2O thru the door it was not allowing water to flow to the ice maker. I reccommend pouring some water into the ice tray of the ice maker. If it makes ice and dumps it in to the holder, your ice maker is OK. If it turns out to be your water valve, that fix is easy as well. I HIGHLY reccommend watching the "fix it" video associated with that part. That repair also took less than 15 minutes. Good Luck! KC Bridgewater,NJ
Had to reach right hand to top of ice maker to locate hex head screws by feel, then place nut driver onto hex head by feel and then unloosen screws with lft hand ,a couple of turns, enough to lift ice maker off screws. Replace new icemaker onto screws and tighten screws. The only problem incountered was the location and availability of having to feel with both hands to fit nut driver onto the screws.(could not see with my eyes because front of ice maker blocked view. )
Put on new shelf in seconds. What a wonderful way to be able to purchase the perfect part easily through the internet. I ordered the part on Sunday and received it on Tuesday. THANK YOU Parts Select!!! K.F.
I slid out the tray in the ice/water area and exposed the 3 screws to remove the unit/panel. I then had to unplug the electrical connection and work the panel around to where I could get to the 2 screws that hold the actuator in place. The water tube holds the panel tight making it difficult to access these two screws but I was able to complete the job in about 15 minutes.
Door had a "hitch" which made a sound when the door was opened.
I emptied the door of food, removed the top hinge by removing two screws. I then lifted the door off the lower hinge. The teflon hinge was just sitting in the bottom bearing. I removed the broken one and replaced it with the new bearing hinge. I didn't need the door stop. I then put the door back on the bottom bearing hinge and returned the top hinge. After replacing the food, the job was done and the "catch" and noise were gone! Success!
Part 30 on the Ice and water dispenser drawing was broken and needed to be replaced in order to seal the ice chute opening into the freezer.
Followed the video for this repair. Only issue was that the videos showed that when the front panel is removed, there is a wire harness that has to be unplugged from part No. 38c. This was not the case. What I had was a Ribbon Cable Harness that plugged into the front of part No. 38 and the top of part 38C (the two power boards) I tried to disconnect it from part 38C by pulling it out, and apparently damaged the Ribbon Cable Harness. Later found a video showing how to remove this item properly when replacing power boards 38 and 38C. Have ordered a new cable from GRP and hopefully this will solve the problem, as there is no electrical current to the dispenser controls and the ice and water dispenser are not currently working. Would have been nice to know that there are two types of connections between these power boards; a cable harness that unplugs from 38C or a Ribbon Cable Harness that unplugs from from the face of part No. 38. Hopefully I have not damaged either of the boards or anything else. Professional repair man coming on Thursday to test the boards, micro switches, etc. The boards are quite pricey, ($550.00 for both) and since the refrigerator was manufactured in 2004, we will buy a new one before we pump any more into this older unit. Very important to know how to unplug this Ribbon Cable Harness from the boards before proceeding ! Plug in on 38C is very tricky and you will need to review a video showing how it is done.
Turn off power. Remove ice tray. Back out the two screws with nut driver and just lift ice maker off screws. Do not bend the water fill tube in the back . Now unplug the wire and remove ice maker . To replace, match the color of wires on plug. Adjust wires in place and water fill tube and back on to the screws. Hold in place and snug screws. Turn power back on. In 4 to 5 hours your ice will start . FED-EX UT to MN was 13 days to deliver .
I had a broken fan blade due to ice build up from a leaking ice maker.
1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker. 2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,. 3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket. 4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel. 5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.