WGD9500TW2 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

This was by far so easy the instruction Partselect gave me where right on step by step. a repair man was going to charge 75$ just to come out 9$ from partselect. Thank you very much Mike chaplin

Remove front cover to expose internal parts, igniter would glow and gas vavle would click ,but no flame in auto, would light in manual but go out quick. Gas valve coils bad. Thermistor was testing good but I replaced it in case it had anything to do with quick flame shut down. $25 Dryer fixed for $50. Clean out lint in all vent duct work to make sure a clog is not the problem for quick flame shut down as well.

1. Disconnect power cord and remove flexible duct. 2. Tilt dryer back and lean against wall, using folded towel to prevent wall damage. 3. Remove front/bottom panel - 4 screws on front/bottom of dryer. 4. Make alignment marks on internal vent duct where it attaches to vent bottom duct housing. Remove internal vent duct screw (towards front/top of duct) and slide vent duct out back of dryer (duct has to be removed to remove back panel) 5. Remove top panel (4 screws on back/top). 6. Remove AC power terminal block from back panel, disconnecting wire that restricts free movement of terminal block. Remove power cord from terminal block (3 nuts). Remove back panel (many screws). 7. From rear of dryer, gain access to idler pulley spring arm. Carefully note how belt routes around motor pulley and idler pulley (maybe record an image). Release belt from idler pulley. 8. Remove idler pulley triangle retainer (if still on pulley shaft) and remove old pulley. 9. Thoroughly vacuum lint and dust from all areas of dryer, internal duct, flexible duct and duct in wall (as far as possible) while dryer is in disassembled state. 10. Thoroughly clean idler pulley shaft of deposits with cloth. If desired, add very small amount of Park Tools Polylube 1000 to the cleaned shaft. 11. Install new washer, idler pulley and triangle retainer to shaft. 12. Re-route belt around pulley in original orientation. 13. Reassemble rear panel to dryer, terminal block to rear panel, and power cable and internal wire to terminal block. 14. Reassemble top cover to dryer. 15. Insert internal duct back into front vent duct, aligning guide marks, and secure with the one screw. 16. Plug unit in and briefly test, then unplug. 17. Again, tilt dryer against wall and reinstall front/bottom panel and screws. 18. Install flexible duct, plug in power cord and position unit for operation.

The gas would light briefly then go out so the clothes were never heated. I googled the problem and found your website and read a few blogs describing the problem, ordered the coils, popped them in and presto it worked.

I must say what really made this install/replacement easy is the YouTube video link that was included with the belt replacement part. Once I saw the video (which showed my exact model dryer) it was a piece of cake! There was some work involved but once I got all the screws removed and took the shell off, installing the belt was a cake walk after watching the video. Many thanks!

I replaced gas coils which in my case came as a set and that did the trick.

Took it apart, then, put it back together again. Self explanatory model.

Pretty easy to fix, hardest part was having to get the screws out of the inside of the dryer to replace the sensor itself. Once that was done it was pretty quick! PLUS super fast shipping on my part!! Was fixed before any repair places even called me back!!

The dryer would not start when pushing the power button and the timer clicked rapidly. Another You Tube video lead us to the thermal fuse. First, we took the lower front panel off, it had two little groove places to pry open with a flat head screwdriver. Then we took off the venting piece. It was jammed full of lint which is why the thermal fuse blew. The thermal fuse itself was tricky to get at the nut in order to loosen it. We vacuumed out all the lint, cleaned the venting piece and lint filter. When the part came, again the nut was tricky, but just requires patience. Put everything back together and the dryer works great again! Really easy and I wonder how many dryers get replaced when this happens.

I woke up one morning to the dryer not working. Every company that I called wanted to charge a high price to come check the dryer. I decided to get on YouTube to troubleshoot the issue. There were a few videos that I saw, but the video for partselect was the best one I saw. I decided to explore the site to see if there was something I could do to fix it. I love the Instant appliance repair help, where you give the issue and it tells you what the problem most likely is. When I put in my model number, it said that it was most likely the thermal fuse or thermostat. I decided to get both since they were inexpensive. I received the part within a couple of days. I decided to come back to the site to make sure I was putting the part in correctly. If it wasn't for this site, I would have been paying hundreds of dollars instead of the $30 that I spent. Thanks so much PartSelect!!!!!!

I started by taking the front of my dryer off and cleaned it out. Next i ran the dryer and watched the flame starter circut. The starter circut would work once and then not for a long time but i could see it was tring to light because the iginiter would glow white hot. I then searched online for my model number and found the part select web site. In a few minutes I found a dryer fault description that best fit what my dryer was doing. The part select site should me three parts it might be. I read about what the three parts did on the parts select site. Then by using the process of elimination, with the knowledge I had just learned, I narrowed my suspect parts down to one. The coil for the gas valve must be the problem. So I got my ohm meter and measured the coil resistance and I found that when the coil was room temp it had resistance. But it would get hot after one heat cycle and it would open up therefore causing the gas valve not to open......no heat! I ordered the part and it came in two days!!!! All fixed!

It snapped right in. Works perfect.

Initial diagnoses suspected a faulty igniter. After deterininig that there was not power to the igniter I unplugged the dryer and systematically tested the continuity of each of the temperature limit swithches which all checked OK. The last item in the circuit is the thermal fuse which proved to be faulty. To confirm that this was the only problem I monentarily by passed the fuse to verify that the burner came on. To do all this I had to remove the fron panel and take out the drum. Actually the thermal fuse is located behind th back cover and is very easy to replace and probably should have been my fist go to suspect. Note the likely cause of the thermal fuse failure is a plugged up lint filter or exhaust duct which should be checked before installing a new fuse.

I took the old filter out and placed the new one in the same spot.

looked at schematic diagram, compared to unit finally used a multimeter to check fuse.. replaced fuse, assembled dryer and turned on to check operation. OK.