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The auger was chromed steel. It rusted causing rust to get on ice.
It's a good idea to take closeup pictures, that will eliminate guessing when you put it back together. There was no instructions. I was happy to see GE knew there was a problem with the chrome auger. The replacement is STAINLESS STEEL.
It took me about 15 minutes to complete the repair, 1st I emptied the ice maker, then I removed 4 screws from the rear of the ice maker tray and took the plastic piece off of the auger. I reversed the steps and put it back together.
First I turned the refrigerator and water line off. Then moved to the freezer section, followed the directions, removed the two screws. Directions state to not remove them but I had to in this case. Unplugged the ice maker and removed it from the freezer. I installed the two mounting screws then tried to plug the electrical connection back in but had to use the adaptor cord furnished in the kit. The cord was a little long but I tucked it in and mounted the ice maker. Turned it on then turned the refrigerator and water back on and in a few hours had ice! Very easy to do!
Removed the 4 screws holding the back panel in freezer compartment and then removed panel. Removed the 4 screws holding defrost heater and removed it. The replacement parts fit perfect , plug the new part in and bingo my frig is operating like a new one. Took about 15 minutes to make the repair. Took longer to defrost the ice buildup on the coils ( 1hr ) than to do the repair (15 min). I can't believe i would have been paying an appliance repairman to hold a hair dryer for an hour. Your diagrams showing where the various parts are located on the appliance are invaluable. Would recommend PartsSelect to anyone and I am sure that I will be ordering parts for my other appliances as needed. Thanks
Twice I ordered the oven light bulb & each time the light bulb was defected
I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance
as described, I used a thin screwdriver to wedge in and pull down existing, broken switch. I was able to pull it down about a 1/4 inch, but wasn't quit able to disegage it until I gripped it with pliers. I then pulled it out, unplugged the old switch, plugged in the new switch, and carefully tucked the wires back into the fridge and snapped the new switch into place.
After diagnosis though Part Select I determined it must be the defrost heater. I took the panel off on the inside of the back wall of the freezer and used a hair dryer to thaw the ice buildup. I found the bottom element was burned out. I ordered the defrost heater kit and the defrost timer in case that was faulty too. Parts arrived next day. I installed the heater kit and replaced the panel. Then took off the plastic cover inside the refrigerator. One screw near the top of the metal box allows you to remove it to get to the defrost timer.
Freezer would not auto defrost. Food side would be warm.
Your customer installation comments were very helpful. After unplugging the unit, I took out all the freezer shelfs and the back panel (4 screws). I hadn't realized the coils were also covered in solid ice. It took awhile to defrost with a hair dryer, and I needed to use more than one towel to soak up the melting ice. Locating and splicing in the new thermostat was very easy. I used "cold weather" electrical tape to splice the wires back together. After reassembling the back panel and shelfs, I snapped in a new light shield that had been broken for awhile. It's been over a week now, and I do not see any problems. Overall, it was a easy fix. Just took a little time to defrost the coils.
What can I tell you to help except if the 75+ year old Grandma can do it you can do it also. This site was great and the shipping was super fast.
Have put up with an ice maker that never automatically quit making ice for over a year. I just manually shut it off (remembered some of the time and was reminded by the error messages when overflowing at other times). I just didn't want to pay for a service call and all that involves for this item. Then the incoming waterline split and I had to make a decision and that was to DIY the repair after reading the info on this site. The ice maker was a breeze and you can read the details in other posts. Here I will say it takes removing two screws to loosen (mine wouldn't slip off unless screws were totally removed), (I shut off the water and unplugged refrigerator since I am neither an electrician nor an appliance repairman) unplugging the ice maker by removing one hex head, removing the control cover (bottom to top as described in other posts), remove 3 screws only in the metal plate that holds the inside of the ice maker together to get access to the "brains", replaced the Cam, reverse to reassemble (remembering to get the arm back into it's hole in the metal plate. End of that job.
After reading posts about the the water line tubing, I made sure that I had all of the parts of the correct size to replace all of the tubing that passes by the compressor. I did not, however, replace the full length of any of the tubing. I cut off the bad sections of the 1/4" to the middle of the back of the refrigerator and connected a new section with the 1/4" x 1/4" water tube unions.(I was able to buy 1/4" water line, 5/16" water line and 1/4" x 1/4" water tube unions locally but I could not find 5/16" x 5/16" water tube unions so I ordered them from PartSelect at the same time as I ordered the ice maker cam.)
Then I went to the inside of the refrigerator removed the cover from the water reservoir (behind the hydrator), cut out the old section of the water dispenser lines that pass by the compressor, threaded in (not as easy as the outside tubes but not difficult either) the new tubing and connected with the 5/16" x 5/16" water tube unions. You will get lots more details in other posts but this is to tell you that you CAN DO IT with help from this site! I fixed it all for less than $20 (versus cost of new refrigerator, or new ice maker, or service call).
remove lower back cover - disconnect wires to fan motor - place 6" fan to blow on condenser - fridge began cooling & freezing again - ordered part - part arrived - removed fan motor & bracket - cleaned brackets & fan blade - cleaned lint & dust from condenser compartment (took longer to clean than anything else) - replaced fan motor - replaced cover - was hero with wife ... :-)
Simple. UNPLUG THE FRIDGE. Remove set screw holding valve to frame, switch hoses one at a time into new valve, switch wires one set at a time from old to new, re-attach the new valve, turn on water , plug in fridge, check for leaks. 2-minute job.
Unplugged the refrigerator. I took all the food items out of the freezer, took out the ice bin and shelves. Then I unscrewed the back panel and removed it. The freezer coils were frozen over with ice. Then I used a large fan to thaw the ice and cleaned up the water with towels. I unscrewed the old defrost heater at the bottom of the coil section, removed it and screwed the new defrost heater part in. I ended up using some dikes to cut the wiring midway up . ( I was going to use the new plastic plug that came with the new part, but it wasn't correct ). I spliced the wires together ( the color scheme was the same - pink to pink, blue to blue, etc), capped them , taped them with electrical tape, and I covered them with a corner from a sandwich bag and taped them a bit more to keep moisture out. Then I tucked the wiring up away from the coil section. I also spliced this little cylindrical part into the existing wiring harness and clipped it onto the copper tubing. ( I suspect this is the defrost timer, but I'm not sure ). After I removed the the old cylindrical little part, I noticed the cap was popped out of it. (it looked like it was damaged a bit ). Once I got all wiring tucked away and back in place, I put the back panel back on, plugged it back in. Voila'. Easy as pie. It's been running fine ( about a week now) ever since. I replaced the thermostat sensor first since that was the cheapest part, but it wasn't the problem. So I moved on to the defrost heater and that ended up being the bad part. I repaired my refrigerator for less than $100.00. Thanks PartSelect. You rock!
Ice Maker was leaking all over freezer compartment
Pulled out the fridge, took off the cardboard back. Get a nut driver instead of screwdriver (easier). TURN OFF WATER NOW. UNPLUG FRIDGE NOW. Removed one screw holding valve. Pulled off electrical connectors. Use two small adjustable wrenches to remove water lines. Tag the plastic tubes (I marked RED and BLUE). Grab the new valve and try to stuff it into the same space. Whoops ! Dang plastic housing protecting the electrical from the water is in the way. Have to cut most of it out to make it fit. By the way, DONT follow the instructions about take the bracket off the OLD solenoid. You don't need it. Just throw it away. Connect the wires (remember to use the adapters sent with the new solenoid) Mount the new solenoid (now that the plastic is out of the way) with the one screw (nut driver). Hook up the supply water line (wrenches). Hook up the plastic tubes (aren't you glad you marked them ?). The tubes just push into the new solenoid, no more threads. I just left the plastic nuts on the tubing. TURN ON THE WATER. Check your connections for leaking. Do this before plugging in the fridge. If OK, plug in the fridge. Run some water on the door, look in about an hour to see if cubes are making now. Put cardboard back on fridge. Push fridge back against wall. CONGRATULATE YOURSELF ON A JOB WELL DONE.