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TFM20JRBCWW
TFM20JRBCWW General Electric Refrigerator - Overview
Sections of the TFM20JRBCWW
[Viewing 10 of 10]
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Ice Maker
PartSelect #: PS1993870
Manufacturer #: WR30X10093
This 10 by 5 inch ice maker (Electromechanical Icemaker Kit, Ice Maker Assembly) produces ice. This particular model will produce seven crescent shaped cubes every cycle. It is constructed of plastic ...
$216.23
In Stock
Dispenser Door Assembly or Flapper
PartSelect #: PS964304
Manufacturer #: WR17X11653
This “Dispenser Door Assembly” (Door Recess Assembly, Ice Door Assembly, Dispenser Door, Refrigerator Dispenser Ice Chute Door Kit, Dispenser Door Flap, Ice Chute Door, Flapper) keeps the room air fro...
$15.58
In Stock
Dual Inlet Water Valve
PartSelect #: PS901314
Manufacturer #: WR57X10051
This valve comes with 1/4" compression inlet.
NOTE: This part comes with new quick connections. To install - cut retaining nuts off of existing plastic water lines and gently push them into new valv...
$61.57
In Stock
Bottom Hinge Assembly
PartSelect #: PS290199
Manufacturer #: WR13X10020
Comes with both cam risers. This hinge kit is suitable for the bottom of either the freezer door or the refrigerator door of some refrigerators.
$47.33
In Stock
Union Connector - 5/16 Inch to 5/16 Inch
PartSelect #: PS758446
Manufacturer #: WR02X11330
Quick connector for plastic water line - 5/16" to 5/16"
$9.03
In Stock
Evaporator/Condensor Fan Grommet
PartSelect #: PS284555
Manufacturer #: WR02X10098
This evaporator fan motor grommet, or condenser fan grommet is built for refrigerators. It provides a cushion between the fan motor and the motor mounting bracket. It is made or round, black plastic a...
$11.59
In Stock
Light Switch
PartSelect #: PS8758429
Manufacturer #: WR23X10725
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the sw...
$8.56
In Stock
Hinge Cam Riser
PartSelect #: PS284596
Manufacturer #: WR02X10140
This part helps with the closing of the door and helps keep it in position.
$11.59
In Stock
Defrost Timer
PartSelect #: PS310858
Manufacturer #: WR9X489
This device acts like a clock. It continually advances and alternates between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater.
$50.71
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
PartSelect #: PS217532
Manufacturer #: 40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
$11.02
In Stock
Dispenser Control Board - 2 Slide Switches
PartSelect #: PS304236
Manufacturer #: WR55X129
It is used with those refrigerators that have an ice and water dispenser in the door.
No Longer Available
Defrost Heater with Thermostat
PartSelect #: PS303933
Manufacturer #: WR51X442
This part assembly has 2 functions: The defrost heater keeps the cooling coils from frosting over and the thermostat senses that the heat near the cooling coils has reached the desired temperature. Us...
$126.91
In Stock
Questions And Answers for TFM20JRBCWW
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Common Symptoms of the TFM20JRBCWW
[Viewing 20 of 20]Leaking
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Ice maker not making ice
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Fridge too warm
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Light not working
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Not dispensing water
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Door won’t open or close
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Noisy
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Freezer section too warm
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Freezer not defrosting
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Door Sweating
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Frost buildup
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Fridge runs too long
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Freezer too cold
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Clicking sound
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Will Not Start
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Ice maker dispenses too much ice
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Won’t start
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Cracked housing on the vaave
1. Turn off water supply, and electrical ( unplug it) to fridge.
2. Remove water line to valve. Watch for water to pour out of the line. Have a towel handy.
3. Remove the cardboard cover on the bottom of the fridge.
4. Remove the screws that hold the valve in place.
5. Remove the valve, be careful the waterlines ar ... Read more e still attached.
6. Place a towel under valve to catch any water that leaks out from water lines.
7. Remove electrical lines, make sure to mark which went where. One is for the ice, and one is for the water. Make sure the power is off, there is 120 volts present at those connections.
- now my waterlines attached using a compression type fitting. The new valve I got used just a push in type of attachment. But, easy enough I just removed the pieces for the compression and the waterlines pushed right in and worked fine.
- the mounting harness for the valve was alittle different but the parts I need were in the right location and she fit in fine.
8. Attach water lines. They are different sizes so you can't get those mixed up.
9. Attach electrical lines.
- the new valve came with adaptors for my electrical connection. Just snapped them on and kept on going.
10. turn on watersupply for fridge. Plug it back in.
11. Test for leaks, and proper operation. ie. When you push the water does the water valve open?
12. Unplug fridge
13. Now is a good time to clean out any dust or dirt that has accumallated in under around your fridge.
14. reassemble, valve, then cover. move fridge back into place.
15. Plug fridge back in.
16. Take a clean glass.
17. Fill with water from the front.
18. Take full glass of water and go watch tv. You've earned it, and saved yourself probably $100.00 in labor costs. Good Job.
2. Remove water line to valve. Watch for water to pour out of the line. Have a towel handy.
3. Remove the cardboard cover on the bottom of the fridge.
4. Remove the screws that hold the valve in place.
5. Remove the valve, be careful the waterlines ar ... Read more e still attached.
6. Place a towel under valve to catch any water that leaks out from water lines.
7. Remove electrical lines, make sure to mark which went where. One is for the ice, and one is for the water. Make sure the power is off, there is 120 volts present at those connections.
- now my waterlines attached using a compression type fitting. The new valve I got used just a push in type of attachment. But, easy enough I just removed the pieces for the compression and the waterlines pushed right in and worked fine.
- the mounting harness for the valve was alittle different but the parts I need were in the right location and she fit in fine.
8. Attach water lines. They are different sizes so you can't get those mixed up.
9. Attach electrical lines.
- the new valve came with adaptors for my electrical connection. Just snapped them on and kept on going.
10. turn on watersupply for fridge. Plug it back in.
11. Test for leaks, and proper operation. ie. When you push the water does the water valve open?
12. Unplug fridge
13. Now is a good time to clean out any dust or dirt that has accumallated in under around your fridge.
14. reassemble, valve, then cover. move fridge back into place.
15. Plug fridge back in.
16. Take a clean glass.
17. Fill with water from the front.
18. Take full glass of water and go watch tv. You've earned it, and saved yourself probably $100.00 in labor costs. Good Job.
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Parts Used:
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anthony from thornton, CO
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Defroster failure
Fridge was not really cold. Fan was working at back of freezer. Romoved the drawers and back panel of freezer compartment. Melted ice with a blow dryer and collected water with a towel so that it would not overflow the drip pan. Installed the new defroster units with 4 screws and the easy plug in wiring harness. Bingo! Defrost timer
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was probably OK but new one is easy to do.
Fixed in one day vs waiting for service call & payng $$$.
Fixed in one day vs waiting for service call & payng $$$.
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Parts Used:
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Joseph from North Attleboro, MA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
127 of 144 people
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Refrigerator temp was warm
Per the trouble shooting guide on the home page of the website. I suspected the defrost timer was bad because ice had heavily accumulated on the back wall of the freezer compartment and the temperature inside the refrigerator was warm. First, I removed all the freezer racks. Then removed the (4) screws on the back wall in the freezer c
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ompartment. I then removed the ben from the ice maker to allow more room. Once I saw all the ice, I unplugged the refrigerator, and used a hair dryer to defrost ( it took about an hour to get it all). Once the ice was all gone, I then moved into the refrigerator compartment and removed the top shelve. This allowed me more room and access to the defrost timer which was behind the back panel. I used the trouble shooting guide to test the old timer prior to removing the new one from the package, (just in case I needed to send it back). Through this test I determined that the timer was bad, it wasn't the heating element or the t-stat. It was very easy to access, I removed the two knobs and lifted up the panel. I located the defrost timer and removed the screws as directed. I replaced the timer just as I had removed it, plugging in the electrical terminals per the removal process. I then reversed the order and put the panel and top shelve back on. Once all complete, I then moved back into the freezer compartment and replace the back panel and then the ice ben. I plugged it in and haven't had a problem since. This site has saved me a tremendous amount of money, a service contractor quoted us $300, to determine the problem. I ordered the part and it was sitting on our door stoop the next morning.
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Parts Used:
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Adrian from Louisville, KY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver
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