SVD48600W Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

Undid the bad part and installed the new one

There are days when the distraction levels are higher than others; lets say you leave tomato soup on High, it boils over and runs down the sides and back of your stove. When it makes contact with ANY electrical part it DOES short out, the electrical connection can actually catch on fire. To top it all off It becomes a thick paste that is only removed by scraping and scrubbing. Double check to make sure it is out of the electrical connection block before plugging the unit back in or it'll short out again, possibly starting yet another fire. This control board has one screw and a couple wires, remove the old toasted board, install the new one and pull and move one wire at a time from the old to the new board.

Nice filter. Exact fit. Had a little ring to use to pull out to clean. Shipment was packed well.

Remove cover and install

Turned off the circuit breaker for the oven. Took the existing element out (really easy...a couple of screws is all) tested it with my volt meter and saw that it was bad. If you don't have a volt meter a local appliance repair shop may test it for you. Put the element back in so I could flip the breaker and use the stove top while waiting for the new element. New element came within three days. Flipped the breaker again, removed broken element and replaced it with new one. Flipped the breaker on and oven heated right up when preheated to 450 degrees :)

I removed the 4 control knobs, removed 4 screws behind the knobs, removed 4 screws on bottom of panel. lifted front panel, off of stove, unplugged wiring on back and placed new panel by reversing process. Works great. Like new. Very easy if you have any experience working with appliances or most any kind of mechanical experience. Simple and straight forward.

Installed it by dropping the front plate down, removing the 2 screws that held the clock in place and then unsnapped the wires and did the reverse to attach new clock.

Our oven quit working again. I called the repair(dealer) man and he said we needed a new control panel. It would cost $180.00 and labor would be $60. The total repair would be $240.00. We considered just purchasing a new one. It is a slide-in range and they start at about $1500. So I began looking for a control panel on line. I found your web site and entered what was wrong with the oven. Your site suggested we try replacing the oven sensor. There was a video that showed how simple the repair was. We ordered the part. It came quickly and I immediately made the repair (about 10 min). I was very disappointed that it did not work. I went back to you web site and tried the next option. It was a terminal block for only $20.00. I didn't even know what a terminal block was, what it looked like or where on the range to find it. But I went again to your video and I learned quickly what to do. I ordered the part and it came in two days. I made the repair in about 15 min. My wife was very happy that the repair worked. Our total cost was about $80. The $240 quote would not have fixed the oven anyway. The repairman was wrong. I was very happy with the results and the money we saved.. Good Job PartSelect and thanks.

My husband took the plastic cover off and took out old bulb and screwed in the new one. Then put the cover back on.

Followed other's comments about process. Opened door then removed 4 hexnuts from bottom of stove control panel. Removed hexnut from each triangular side panel of control panel. Removed side panel (it did break off a screw area near the top of the panel, but did not negatively affect reassembly. Control panel slid down and tilted out so I could see the backside of the clock control circuit card. Removed 2 small cables. The flex cable is removed by pushing in on the small ears on each side of the connector. The cable has a couple of holes which are over protusions on the connector, so be careful. Removed the 2 hex nuts holding the board down, and put in the new one. Put cables back on as removed - the near side of the flex cable connector is free to slide up about 1/8 inch when ears on both ends of connector are pushed in. When raised, put the flex cable in place and push in (along with the side of the connector) until it is latched in place. This took me the longest since I was being careful here, but no more than 10 minutes. Then put control panel back in place, and put triangular end pieces back on panel and attach with hex nut, then put 4 front hex nuts back in place. Worked fine!! Thanks for everyone's encouragement and help in understanding what I would find during this process.

My electrical engineer son was skeptical of my diagnoses and wanted to be there so I didn't electrocute myself. Opened oven door so interior light came on. Went to circuit box and opened proper circuit (previously determined). Light went off. Started timing,removed 7 seven screws, I held the panel while my son removed the wires from connections. I expected the long multi-wire to release from the panel, but only a part of it came up when we squeezed the ends which released the wires. Removed four hex-head screws, put new panel in place, re-installed screws, inserted multi-wires into connector, connected the other two wires, re-installed the 7 screws, closed circuit breaker. 17 minutes. Set clock. Works like a new one. It appears the display unit lost vacuum. One small black spot like a burned incandecent filament. Engineer was impressed.

very easy

Control panel was responsive however oven would not heat up. I Replaced sensor with one of the adapters and oven is now working again.

Screwed in light bulb and glass protector

I slide the oven out from the counter and unpluged it. I removed all the oven racks. I then removed the machine screws that held the sheet metal that covered the back of the unit. This made it a lot easier to disconnect the long oven sensor wire and put the wire through the insulation. I removed the two screws on the inside of the oven that held the sensor onto the inside rear wall of the oven. The old sensor did not test too bad but the temperature is reaching the set temperature. I still had to adjust the oven temp up ten degrees using the control panel. I have learned that it takes a few cycles of the element going off and on during the warming to reach the desired set temperature. One more issue is that the buzzer goes off signaling that the set temperature has been reached when it has not. When I set it for 350 F the buzzerr goes off at 280 F and I have a good oven thermometer. I own three oven thermometers and they all read the same. We use to have nothing but Maytag appliances but no more. We have had issues with Maytag front loading washers and ranges. PartSelect is great. Good prices and fast delivery.