PFS22SISBSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

We were not sure if the problem was with the fan or the main control board after reading other posts with similar problems we decided the main control board was most likely the problem our unit is over 5 years old with heavy use. We left the fridge pulled away from the wall and put a medium size fan aimed toward the condensor, compressor area and that worked bringing the temperature down and the unit did shut off. This further assured us that it was probably the main control unit and we also figured with the units age the control board would eventually have to be replaced. It took several days to get the main control unit(not bad)and we left the fan in place during the wait. We watched the video read the instuctions and had just a small problem removing some of the wiring harnesses nothing major. Squeezed the plastic tabs with needle nose pliers my son pulled as I watched everything carefully came off well put the new one in place easily plugged all the wires back on you cannot put them in the wrong place do to the configurations plugged the unit back in and the fan went right to work. Put everything back together and the unit runs as quiet as it did when it was new the part was a little pricey but saved the cost of a repair man

A local appliance parts shop told me that GE refrigerators were notorious for bad control boards. The new one cost ~ $200, with express shipping. Removal and installation were easy and straight-forward. After the replacement, the refrigerator is working fine--for now.

The part had cracked before so I was experienced. You need to save all pieces. There's a metal support bar that needs to be taken out of the old one and reinserted. The plastic slides clip in okay but are fragile. Just be careful. I was thankful that the part was under one year warranty. It was replaced and I only had to pay for shipping. Cusomer service is amazing. Thank you

Removed rer cover, unplugged starter assembly from side of compressor and replaced unit with a new one. Plugged fridge in and it works good.

Googled the model number of refrigerator with symptoms of "refrigerator wont run". Parts select web site appeared on my screen, opened Parts Select website, Partselect said probable cause of my frige symptom was that the run capacitor usually burns out 51% of the time. They were correct with the diagnosis 100%. I ordered the run capacitor for $23.00, installed it in 10 minutes, refrigerator runs good as new. Thank you for saving me cost of service call. I probably saved $200 or more. I will use Partselect again with my next problem. THANK YOU,

Unplug, replace board, plug in, everything working.

Should have had an idea that it froze up When use of a generator on/ off use for five days And dirty condenser Their should have been a trouble shooting examples

Unplugged the refrigerator first....then on the inside of the fridge, I popped the temp sensor cover off (upper LH side) and exposed the old sensor. I snipped off the old sensor about 3" down from the end and connected the new sensor (which I trimmed down to about 3" long) with some heat shrink wire nuts/connectors. Let the fridge run for a day or so and confirmed the problem was solved! Oh yeah, there was no way to tell the 2 wires apart (power vs. ground) on the sensor. However there was a manufacturer's stamp on the wires. So note the orientation of the text and mark one of the wires with a sharpie on both the old and new sensor before trimming. This will give you a reference for which wires to connect when adding the new sensor to the old wires.

Read instructions,unplugged refrigator from wall socket, removed screws,remove cover, unplugged cables, removed old board, placed in new board, connected cables, put on cover,replaced screws,,,,plugged refrigator into wall socket. so far all is well.

The adapter made the cord a bit long but other than that it was great!!!

I did an internet search on the issue, which was that my refrigerator suddenly stopped dispensing ice and water through the door. Also, the refrigerator had been cycling on and off constantly for some time. I found a YouTube video showing how to replace the main control board; along with a link to order the new part. I ordered the part and selected standard shipping. My part arrived in 48 hours. I replaced the main control board just like in the video. My refrigerator works like new now. I was able to solve my problem in two days on my own, for the cost of parts only. I am sold on PartSelect.com.

I watched the video from the link that was sent to me with the shipping notice. It was very easy to understand. I had no trouble at all. I'm 75 years old woman, however, and I can fix about anything. Don't be afraid to fix appliances yourself if you feel you have the knowledge.

Instructions that came with the part were useless. I would have created new problems if I had attempted to follow the instructions. However, once I had the old part removed and put it beside the new part, required repair process was obvious, easy and quick. Frig now makes ice better than it ever did.

The video instructions were easy to follow as well as the replacement. The replacement Main Control Board is generic to different refrigerators and has more connectors than the original. Be sure to identify the locations prior to removal and installation.

It was fairly easy--disconnect the water supply, remove a bunch of screws on the lower back panel, screws from the clips that hold the tubes close to the back and screws that attach the water filter inside the fridge and disconnect the tubing from the water supply to ice maker. Pull the entire feed (tubes and all) through from the inside and un-clip from the water filter housing. I had to cut the foam carefully so that I could reuse it (it helps to seal the hole that the tubing fits through and there was not included with the part). Clip in the new part, thread the tubes back through, reconnect the water supply and ice maker feed. Turn the water back on and check for leaks. Easy!